Ouch it broke the hard way. I feel more lucky. Mine is very clean Inside. I'm just a bit anxious to find exactly where the noise comes from. If I don't I'll be very nervous after all that work of rebuilding to run the car hoping it's ok :(
Good luck with yours.

 

Yea, that's exactly why I want to make sure I get this valve body back in correctly, I don't want to have to pull this again!
Did yours make noise when you moved the gears after you had it out?

 

Before opening the tranny I attempted to turn the shaft that connects to the engine but it was to hard (not abnormal) Now that I have everything undone I easily saw that the outside bearing of primary clutch shaft had to be changed. About the other cone bearings it's hard to tell. The noise was there when the car was moving and was in relation with engine speed. This means that the bearings of internal differential gearing should be ok.I think. Could it be the belt itself that makes that noise?

 

I'm not 100%, but I don't think the belt would make much noise. I mean, you see what happen to mine and I didn't hear anything.
Was the noise like something grinding?

 

Yes it was like grinding. I found an unfinished post somewhere with exactly the ssme problem but never knew what happened.

 

probably a bearing. how many miles are on it? going to replace the belt too?

 

100k on the clock and yes the belt will be changed. I will as many parts as I can but the angle bearings look like a pain in the neck to get out of there.

 

not sure which bearings are the angle bearings, but I had both the primary and secondary out and with two people we struggled but finally did get the belt around both pulleys.

 

It was hard to put the belt around primary and secondary clutches? However when you have both undone and on hands it should be relatively easy. I don't want to make you nervous tough

 

Dazz. You have have the valve body seated on the dowel pins before you tighten all the bolts. You can pry that level over instead of using a bolt head. You can also use whatever will work to keep the lever over for the valve body will fully seat. The lever rides against the allen head bolt on the torque rod sensor. Have both of you look at the adaption video?

 

You mean this video?


Yes I did but since I'm not rebuilding yet I did'nt memorize all the détails.


I just went to buy 3 seals and 2 huge bearings (high quality) the local store had everything in stock and I paid $50 I still need to order the friction discs and my brother will help me to check the other bearings.

 

Hi Jeff, thanks for responding. I've watched that video over and over to no avail. With it sitting flush, over dowel on the right and manual valve on left lined up, the arm on the switch puts pressure on the top of the allen screw like in the first picture, a lot of pressure. When done correctly, will it sit on top the screw like pic 1 or above it like pic 2?
There doesn't seem to be a way to get it in the position of the second pic, I just keep thinking maybe that's where it needs to go.

 

Does it matter that when I originally pulled the valve body I didn't have the spring held open? I just see that is how he does it when removing it at the beginning of the video. I did not do that when I pulled mine.

 

mni928, can you take a photo of the bottom of your valve body so I can see that mine looks ok?

 

Is the arm of the switch supposed to sit on the edge of the body like in the pic or does it go down, underneath the body?

 

picture number 2. The lever rest against the side of the allen bolt. Thats why they put the bolt between the lever and the valve body. Then it will drop down against the bolt not on top. On top is wrong.

 

goes just like in your picture. That lever rides against the allen bolt.

 

Like this? If that's the case, my primary pulley needs to come down I guess because the torque rod sensor will not go any lower.

 

mni928, can you give me the part number for the secondary pulley bearing? Mine says *** 573386 but nobody seems to have it and I can't find it on any interchange.

 

Yes. Did you check the torque rod sensor for wear? I wish I could send you guys the reassembly video. I made a copy once and sold to it another guy with a blown cvt.

 

Dazz. Its hard to tell,but your torque rod sensor looks bent.

 

Dazz. Just a thought. When you put the allen bolt in the torque sensor did get it in the right notch on the rod? Or is the rod in backwards?

 

I will check the rod again when I get back to the garage on Monday, I thought at one point it looked bent but it rolled smooth on a flat surface. I thought about it being backwards too but it would be much to short in one direction. After closely studying it, and the few(never enough!) pics I have when opening, it is in the correct groove. Also I realized that regardless of were that rod is, the brass part of the sensor will only go as low as that pulley will let it.
I also feel my pri/sec pulley bearings are in great shape and wasn't going to replace them but I really think the fitment of the primary is binding up enough to keep the pulley and the rod from going the 1/4" or so needed to get the valve body mounted correctly.
Once again, I appreciate your help, keep you updated!

 

dazz, sorry for the delay. I was out for the weekend. I will get you the part # for secondary bearing this evening. Do you still need a photo of valve body?

 

no on the photo thanks, I think Jeff's description is all I needed.
Still do need the part number though.
Hopefully I will get this thing sealed up and back in by mid-week. I have the software for the adaptions, just waiting for the cable to arrive. I will keep you updated.