I've read and read on reviews of clutches it seems to me most everyone is very happy with the Valeo clutch. I have heard of people having issues with it slipping at higher RPM'S anyone experience this?

I've been torn between going with the Valeo or going all in and getting a Gilken Grand Touring clutch. I saw last night though Southbend Clutch makes two versions for our cars also. Has anyone went with that setup?

 

Part of the appeal of the Valeo is that:

1) It reduces rotating mass (albeit only a bit).
2) It's wayyy cheaper to replace than the OEM unit.
3) It has better pedal feel, engagement, and is more reliable than the sandwiched dual-mass flywheel that can fail on the OEM arrangement.

Having said that, I have it in my car and it works well. I haven't experienced any slippage with basic bolt-on modifications.

 

You Know much about the ACT clutch setup?

 

I like mine, but I just have an R50 (with a 6-speed swap).
It's supposed to be good and reliable to at least 250 hp, so
unless you've done some heavy engine modification, you
should do well with it.

 

The Valeo kit is a good solution if your flywheel has failed. If your FW is still good, I would recommend going with a stock clutch kit and replace the guide tube. Generally, I would agree with The Big Chill's post above, except we have had a few people who don't like the feel as much as their original clutch.

Performance clutches are designed for folks that have a very specific reason for wanting them: they're launching their cars very hard and want to control the launch with wheel spin. They typically are made from higher temp friction material and stiffer pressure plate springs. They do not last longer than stock clutch kits, despite being called 'heavy duty'. This is important! Unless you are racing for tenths of a second, and don't mind replacing your clutch more often, the stock setup is a better choice than a performance clutch for a daily driver.

 

I love my valeo, doesn't slip on me..... even with 10 deg intake temps and a pulley. total assembly is like 5 pounds lighter, not a very big difference. biggest thing I did notice on how much smoother it is. seems like it was balanced a lot better than the dual mass

 

I know that many aftermarket "upgrade" clutches for the R53 has been problematic for some. I don't claim to know firsthand, but would defer to Helix or the likes of for details. However, I do know firsthand that pucked, unsprung, heavily sprung or non-organic friction surfaced clutches lack daily drivability. I worked a Spec Stage 3+ 6 puck for years, and between a large left calf muscle and being forced to launch the car at every stop, I'd skip unnecessary "upgrades" unless power levels truly require it.


Edit: Just saw Eric @ Helix addressed this.

 

I don't plan on doing any heavy mods I do like the pedal feel I have now. I think my only worry is having to do this all over again if I make the wrong decision.

 

I've given serious thought to going with a OEM clutch but I'm afraid it would just fail prematurely.

 

Price wise you'd be better off with the Valeo if you were going to stay more daily driver oriented. The stock clutch will require another DMF, which will require being replaced again, whereas the Valeo uses a single mass flywheel that can be resurfaced numerous times and all you have to purchase is the clutch assembly when that time comes around again.

That said, I haven't met the person yet that has wasted a Valeo using it the way it was designed.

I also replied to your other thread with my experience on the clutches you had asked about.

 

Yea I saw that and thank you. The OS Gilken is unmatched quality but that is so much money. I think I will go with the Valeo the Gilken has the all metal throw out assembly I wonder if it can be purchased and used with the Valeo clutch.

 

The Giken TOB is proprietary to the kit, it isn't sold separately. Not to mention I doubt it is compatible with any other kit on the market.

 

It was a nice thought.
What do you mean by your clutch having the "on/off" like the Gilken

 

That's what everyone thinks, not gonna lie if it was obtainable separate from the kit it would be in the top 3 upgrades every car needs. lol

The Giken clutches have a smaller window of engagement, so there is more precision involved in driving, you can describe the engagement of it as a switch almost, as it is dang near either on or off.

 

That would be awesome! How firm is your pedal with the Southbend clutch?

 

Perfect to be honest. It doesn't have the heavy calf burning pressure of many pucked race setups. Engagement is tighter than the Valeo unit by about 60% and worlds better than stock.

 

I'm running the ACT clutch with light weight flywheel. Car revs much quicker. I feel the clutch pedal feels lighter than stock pedal. Engagement about same as stock and smooth. I installed a LSD at same time. I beat my car at the track. No issues even when I spin both front slicks off the line

 

What is the cryo option?

 

The clutch assembly & flywheel is put into a cryogenic freezer to temps below -310F for a period of time, during that time any impurities are removed from the metals, the materials are strengthened, as well as added longevity.

Benefits of cryogenic treatment include longer part life, less failure due to cracking, improved thermal properties, better electrical properties including less electrical resistance, reduced coefficient of friction, less creep and walk, improved flatness, and easier machining. -Per the Google

 

Cryogenic treatment can't remove any impurities from an alloy, but it can
re-arrange the crystalline pattern of the metal to a stronger/more stable configuration.

 

Sounds like a good option to add on to the order!

 

What is the difference between the stage 2 and stage 3 their website is not very descriptive

 

Here is the breakdown per their website: http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/per...e-clutches.cfm

I know their site isn't very insightful, if you give them a call they can assess your needs and direct you to the clutch that would suit your needs. The daily & endurance clutches are rather streetable, the drag clutch gets to the point of concentrating a bit more on what your left foot is doing.

Personally the Stage 3 daily is a little less aggressive than I would like, hindsight I would have gone with the endurance, due to it's having kevlar friction material as opposed to the organic disc.

The daily engages fairly stiffer than factory, but people who haven't driven my car before have little problem in driving it.

 

It's too bad that Exedy doesn't make a nice stage 1 upgrade for the R53. I've run those on several different cars, a few over 300 lb/ft TQ, and they've held up wonderfully. I've also owned several more aggressive clutches, and not only were they a pain in the butt to drive civilly, they also didn't last as long as an OEM or mild organic disk upgrade like Exedy. They didn't slip....but they didn't last.

I'd just run the Valeo unit or OEM, honestly. Plenty of people with peppy MINI's on those units. Valeo is nice because it's dirt cheap to replace the disk.

 

I'm thinking I'll call about the stage 2 and stage 3 daily see what their recommendations are