Drivetrain Time for a clutch!!
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
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Here is the breakdown per their website: http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/per...e-clutches.cfm I know their site isn't very insightful, if you give them a call they can assess your needs and direct you to the clutch that would suit your needs. The daily & endurance clutches are rather streetable, the drag clutch gets to the point of concentrating a bit more on what your left foot is doing. Personally the Stage 3 daily is a little less aggressive than I would like, hindsight I would have gone with the endurance, due to it's having kevlar friction material as opposed to the organic disc. The daily engages fairly stiffer than factory, but people who haven't driven my car before have little problem in driving it.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Arnold, MO.
It's too bad that Exedy doesn't make a nice stage 1 upgrade for the R53. I've run those on several different cars, a few over 300 lb/ft TQ, and they've held up wonderfully. I've also owned several more aggressive clutches, and not only were they a pain in the butt to drive civilly, they also didn't last as long as an OEM or mild organic disk upgrade like Exedy. They didn't slip....but they didn't last.
I'd just run the Valeo unit or OEM, honestly. Plenty of people with peppy MINI's on those units. Valeo is nice because it's dirt cheap to replace the disk.
I'd just run the Valeo unit or OEM, honestly. Plenty of people with peppy MINI's on those units. Valeo is nice because it's dirt cheap to replace the disk.
Last edited by BlwnAway; Feb 20, 2015 at 03:05 AM.
Awesome. I've loved every Exedy Stage 1 or 2 clutch I've ever owned. I had a built block, GT28 powered Mazdaspeed Protege with around 300 lb/ft TQ, and the Exedy Stage 1 never missed a beat. The Stage 2 on my B13 SE-R had great drivability, too.
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3rd Gear
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Drivability is my biggest thing I want the same pedal feel I have cause I love it I had a really soft pedal just doesn't feel right to me. But I'm also not wanting to build up a calf muscle shifting either lol
All I'm saying is choose wisely, and most importantly, be realistic about your needs. If you're going to just run a bolt-on car (pulley, intake, exhaust, tune, etc) you don't need any of these pricey Stage X clutches. They're just going to end up being a pain in the ***.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
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All I'm saying is choose wisely, and most importantly, be realistic about your needs. If you're going to just run a bolt-on car (pulley, intake, exhaust, tune, etc) you don't need any of these pricey Stage X clutches. They're just going to end up being a pain in the ***.
I don't plan doing anything more than that really. All I have on there now is Alta CAI and Bavarian Auto exhaust that's it. I just want a clutch that is going to last the only reason I'm looking to go with a different than OEM clutch is because they are prone to failure so much. I currently have almost 100K on my 2002 Cooper S and clutch seems to be fine I just have a main seal bad so if I am going to replace it might as well do the clutch also.
If you got 100,000+ miles from stock, I'd do another.....it suits you and your use.
Clutches tend to fail due to use or misuse....
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3rd Gear
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Remember, the stage "x" clutchs wear FASTER and usually have a SHORTER life than stock due to the friction material used...to get more grip, it is faster wearing...hense the "upgraded" friction material.... If you got 100,000+ miles from stock, I'd do another.....it suits you and your use. Clutches tend to fail due to use or misuse....
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
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Likes: 316
From: Arnold, MO.
Actually this is a good reason to look into OE or Valeo, if you haven't had a problem with OE and its lasted you a good long time then you may just be as well off going back there. (Unless your planning some Major modifications in the future) when my car went down I was still in my "Original" clutch, 212k miles, I'd even go that way if I weren't planning on doing what I'm doing, a major portion of what clutch you "need", is your style of driving.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
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Actually this is a good reason to look into OE or Valeo, if you haven't had a problem with OE and its lasted you a good long time then you may just be as well off going back there. (Unless your planning some Major modifications in the future) when my car went down I was still in my "Original" clutch, 212k miles, I'd even go that way if I weren't planning on doing what I'm doing, a major portion of what clutch you "need", is your style of driving.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,607
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From: Arnold, MO.
Then go with the Valeo, most of the problems people have had revolve around the dual mass setup, the Valeo will be a single mass flywheel. Remember, the dual mass flywheel is there for the novice manual transmission driver, not the performance enthusiast, it's designed to take away some of the vibration incurred from a standing start with the combination of lower torque and higher gear ratios that our cars have, and some people find difficult to deal with.
Beyond the Mini, I've never had a car with a dual mass flywheel, and frankly, think they're silly. A well sprung clutch disc absorbs plenty of NVH in daily driving, is generally more reliable, and offers a more connected feel while driving. I would just do the Valeo kit and be done with it. Just follow the break-in procedure fully. I think those who are having slippage problems did not break it in properly, because this kit is designed to have the same clamping force as OEM.
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