Dyno tomorrow for the 47 turbo, ARP Rod bolts go one Wednesday

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Hey MarioKart is this used in your DP's optional third port?

 

The ported flange did come in handy when using the bigger turbo. The "third bung" option was for customers that wanted to run a wide band for AFR

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Neither of those are O2 sensors, but other sensors that need to be tapped and ran into the engine. A dedicated 3rd O2 will be placed and that will provide me proper values from AFR/EGT

 

Hey Mario are you still running stock internals with that turbo?

 

I am, with a scope the GP pistons are shaped much more aggressive than the normal S and look to have a forged look, not cast like the S. I will know more on Wednesday when I install ARP Rod bolts, this will allow me to look at the rods in person. The car runs strong with the tune and 47mm turbo. I wasn't able to make it to dyno Friday because the place I buy race gas was sold out and the tune took too long to load. mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

I still have my mind blown with just my stage 2 tune sometimes. I'm looking to do the aquamist and a JMcoopers turbo not sure if I'm confident that the car will stand up to it yet though.

 

I sell JMCT turbos and if you go with 42mm and add a Meth kit to spray 80% or 100% you should be fine. The the car will be more fun and the tune will be adjust to give you power, but also to give you some cushion for safety. If you ever get forged internals, the tune can be adjust to be more aggressive.

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

god don't push me. It's only a few thousand dollars and BAM I'm stage 3.....thinking

 

I have the Evolve Cat Less DP and no rear cat and no res..NO SMELL in cabin
love the sound and yes it does pull harder...plugs and tune installing tonight..
Its great not having Emissions in South Florida!

 

Well, my emissions is due this month and happy to say that the car passed!

The car has a hi-flow DP and running on Manic stage 2 Map B right now... Now I am thinking of going catless since I have another full year until my next emission inspection.

 

Hi Bro, I was reading because i have the same problem, How do you fix it ?? Or you still have the problem /:

Please help me

 

This one bro!

 

I was given a CNT Racing catless downpipe and am worried about the dreaded CEL. On CNT's site they say that I shouldn't get the CEL but no guarantees. Is there some sore of CEL eliminator that I can plug inline with the O2 sensor to prevent this? The CNT DP has an extension that is 90 degrees from the flow and moves the factory sensor out of the direct path of exhaust, I assume to get it to reader a slower velocity. I also have the BG+ but it has no provisions to prevent the CEL code.


Thanks,


Greg

 

Akrapovic Delete-R will clear it automatically when it pops up... and it will pop up. Otherwise you could either tune it or keep the stock cat on. It all depends on your budget and goals really. Being a Manic dealer and serious Mini speed nut I'd say tune it but the Delete-R can be picked up for ~$300 new and you might be able to find one second hand in the market section.

 

Thanks. Is that about what any similar type will run? I wasn't expecting something like that to be so expensive(!).

 

Yeah unfortunately they're not cheap. The device monitors the ECU for the code to be stored in permanent memory then clears it. Not a simple circuit hence the reason for the cost. Since it works this way the CEL will come on momentarily before it goes out.

A Stage 1 tune that would eliminate the light from coming on costs ~$499 and whoever you have install it can configure it to a particular map (typically A or B). That way you could purchase the SPS switch later. That would be the cheapest way to prevent a CEL via a tune. Plus you would more than make up for the bottom end torque loss that occurs when running catless without a tune. I've had a few clients that have gone this route and been very happy just running the one map.

 

Or

Get a Scancuage II and clear the code every time it pops up. It is not a permanent solution like Manic or Delete-R but it does the job.

I ran catless on jcw kit tune for a very long time. I just clear it every 200 miles. It's annoying at first to hear the engine light pop but after awhile you will get used to it. You also get to monitor your engine telemetry like oil temp, engine temp, intake temp, afr, boost ...

 

Great idea and one I completely forgot about... Doh!

When I first put a DP on Mini #2 I used the BMWhat app which is now called Carly to clear the CEL and DashCommand to data log. I still use both apps on my iPhone pretty regularly.