Howdy. I just installed a WMW 15% pulley this morning. Since Way doesn't publish detailed installation instructions, I read some for a similar collet design, I think from Cravenspeed. It said it's best to start tightening the screws with the pulley bore about .025" off the end of the SC shaft, so that the pulley is pulled back onto the collet rather than the collet being pulled up into the pulley. This makes sense to me, since the collet's job is to grip the shaft and so trying to slide it along the shaft into the pulley while clamping it down to grip the shaft seemes counterproductive. So that is what I did, but there's no easy way to measure that .025" gap, so I eyeballed it. When I tightened it all down, it didn't quite close the gap - the pulley bore is still about .015" off the end of the shaft (as best as I can tell). Is that a problem for belt alignment, or is it well within the tolerances for this type of belt?

Secondary question - is it possible to remove the WMW pulley if I need to? How would I do this? Removing the 4 screws still leaves the pulley well wedged onto the collet.

Thanks, Jeremy

 

Not sure how easy that collet would be to get off. I had the same thought when I put mine on. I don't think the belt alignment would be an issue at 0.15". The belt has a small amount of play that it can tolerate and you should be ok. If it is any consolation, I was in the same spot when I did mine several months ago and I've had no trouble since. One piece of advice, reset the ECU as soon as you can. I noticed a big difference after I did it.

 

There are usually additional threaded holes in the pulley that you can thread the cap screws through to push against the collet and separate it from the pulley.

 

Yep. Saw those. Didn't realize that's what they were for.

 

Ah yes, those holes! Thx. Any other opinions on the .015" gap?

 

well, you sort of need the tool for the job.

I tend just to use a pair of digital calipers or a depth gauge to judge mine.

You can get some from lowes for not too much iirc (kobalt branded)

When you open up the calipers, a little rod will come out the back end that can be used as a depth gauge.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_293883-16878-53247_0__

Always a handy tool to have when you are working on things (machinery wise)

Also great for scoring aluminum and steel plates with "cut lines" but that may be out of your purview. (not mine (see build thread below yours if you have no idea what I speak of )


As for the pulley coming off, Is his not a tapered collet with a cooresponding taper on the inside of the pulley?

If so a good (but careful!) whack with a soft blow hammer to the back side of the pulley (maybe use a thin piece of a hardwood (maple, alder, cherry, hickory etc to reach the back side of the pulley)

If its tapered all you need to do it move it just a fraction and it should pop off.


Another good way to do this (fyi)

Is put the collet on the shaft and barely tighten it (keep it fairly loose, but firm enough so that it resists sliding freely, but can still move with some force)

Then put the pulley on and tighten so it pulls the collet in to the pulley,

Take the pulley off

Tighten the collet all the way down (torque it if possible)

and then put the pulley back on.

 

This link to installation instructions is on Way's Web site. Was presumably written by a customer.

http://www.billswebspace.com/MCSPull...tTensioner.htm