The way that I understand water cooling my PC is there's an equilibrium when reached the coolant will stay at the same temperature throughout the cooling loop, if you can lower the temperature with more cooling (CFM) you can lower the (equilibrium) operating temperature. Hope this makes sense.

Those are impressive numbers, running without the AC you run at 224.6F (107C) and with the AC full blast you're looking at 197.6F (92C)! It might not look impressive but these temperatures make a huge difference and just might prevent knocking in high temperatures with very dry conditions for which my MCS has trouble with cylinder temperatures! When Manic tunes my MCS (Stage 1) I wonder if turning on the AC would further lower my temperatures below 197.6F (92C)...?

 

180F thermostats is a common mod for other cars to combat knock. It's worse for emissions though.

 

The 2 speed cooling fan uses both coolant temp and ac pressures as inputs to control speed. So by using your ac you are overriding the coolant input and using the ac pressure input to turn the fan on. That is why you see the lower coolant temps with ac on. Pretty much if the ac is on the fan is on since there needs to be air flow to exchange the heat from the condenser.

It has been a while since I tested this so I am giving these numbers from memory.

N14
if no ac input the low speed fan will kick on around 220F and coolant temps will hang out around 210-225 ish

N18
if no ac input it will do the same with the exception of sport mode which will trigger fan at 199F (if equipped with that programming) I have not tested every car to see if it does it but I know the 2013 GP2 will.

Nick has changed the target temp from 220F to ~190F (85-90c) for low speed as I understand. Which is the temp at which the thermostat normally opens without use of the thermostat heater. They put a small heater in the thermostat housing to allow some influence on thermostat opening temp under certain conditions. I'm sure you have all see then fault code threads regarding heater circuit open in the thermostat.

so yes, your car will run cooler if Manic Tuned but not much colder than temps with ac on. Which is good for track days and driving on days when you don't need your air conditioner.

 

The 2013 S in sport mode runs at ~175f-180f. At least mine does.

 

Yeah same here. I thought all MCS w/sport did this. Guess we lucked out...

 

hmmmmmmmmm

 

My car (N14) is running at the target 190ish cooler with the Manic Tune. The temp has never varied Sport on or off. I usually run with Sport on, even pre-tune. Pretune temp was ~225. AC on mostly all the time.

 

This is all interesting. From my experience, (09 JCW R56) the coolant temp always stayed at 220: a/c on or off. Aux fan would come on with a/c on only to cool the condensor ( located just in front of the coolant radiator) Sport mode had no effect on the coolant temps under normal driving. Under WOT, the coolant temps would drop to 180f and stay there only as long at WOT was the defacto driving style. After my Manic tune, the coolant stays around 175F all the time. It will creep up to 200 in stop and go traffic but I feel the cooling system just cannot maintain anything lower without air flow. In any event, I welcome to lower coolant temps.

 

The issue that's holding me back is my 6-year extended warranty (5-years left), but on the flipside do I want to run my engine at 224*F for 5 more years. There's also the fact that the reason for (burnt valves) the heat is that these Mini's run lean from the factory. I would at the least want either a Forge intercooler and or W/M injection before any tune.

 

Has your oil consumption decreased at all running at 190*F?

 

Systemlord, with all the rest of the stuff you have already put on your MINI, I would put on the FMIC and get a tune. FMIC won't affect anything warranty-wise. At least it didn't mine, and believe me! I used my warranty! The nice thing about the Manic is, if you buy the Switch, you are back to stock in about 30 seconds. My understanding is that any tuning\change won't be recognized unless someone is looking awfully hard for it, if then. I could be wrong on that point but I'd go for it. I'm running a flat stage 2 and it flat gets it. When your foot isn't in it, you'd never know you even have it.

 

I would think a non visible tune would be less likely to throw an extended warranty red flag than a Forge intercooler or W/M injection set up. I could easily see an extended warranty company believing water meth is the same as nitrous. lol

 

I don't know yet if the tune will make a difference there, but I do go through some oil. Nothing from the exhaust that I've witnessed and I've got it sealed up pretty good, so I've got some blow-by some where I haven't yet identified. I've not done a compression or leakdown test for fear I'd be off to new motor shopping and I can't do that yet!! lol. I do make a lot of short trips, my commute is about 3 miles. Talk about a car wrecker! I use a quart about every 2 weeks, depending.

 

The only scenario a tune might before found is if my engine ate itself and the extended warranty request that a Mini dealer look deeper for a tune as a cause, but the chance of me blowing my engine in the next 5 years is not likely because I average 5000 miles a year. I believe running cooler operating temperatures via Manic tune plus an intercooler would be probably better for my engine than putting five more years running lean and hot. I just might prevent a valve or two from forming cracks which I have seen here.

You know you're right about people jumping to the conclusion that water meth injection is similar to nitrous, at my Irvine Mini dealer I told them about a water meth injection and they thought it was similar to nitrous. Everyone I have talked with seems to think water meth is like nitrous. I can see an intercooler being overlooked in a warranty claim, they might not even see it.

I'm going to save up the money for an intercooler and a Stage 1 tune, later I'll go for a Stage 1+ and decat my MCS. I just had it smogged also, perfect time to be installing a catless DP and second cat delete.

 

what are you using to log ?

 

SO your running stage 2 ? No cat ? And dealer don't care ? MOP ?

 

I have stage 2+, meth injection, high flow cat. I've openly talked to the service writer at the dealership about it. They don't care. Now, that might change if I try to make a major warranty claim...say if I blow the engine.

That being said, if I blow the engine is it right to make a warranty claim? I did willingly violate the terms and conditions of the warranty.

I'm not suggesting that you discuss it with your dealership but I decided that I'm not going to tiptoe around. I'm going to do what I want and enjoy the car.

 

everything I have read said hat a high flow still fails cat eff test so I don't see the point, other than feeling a little greener towards the planet but the cost of the high flow takes a lot of green and if it still won;t pass test ?? Does yours ? what is cell count ? Cost ?

 

People have tried to pass emissions with spacers, high flow cats. It doesn't work. Put the stock DP back on, smog, then reinstall catless dp. It's the only way.

 

I have a high flow 100 cel Akrapovic DP because for me (my opinion, YMMV) the catless downpipes are:

1. Too loud
2. Smells like a 60's/70's muscle car

I had a catless DP on for one day before I removed it.

I will get a CEL from the high flow DP but the Manic tune solves that problem AND it will pass the visual inspection. We don't have a sniff test here in NC just the OBD2 readiness.

 

I added back the 2nd cat and resonator. Doesn't smell too bad now but running sports mode, the pops are insanely loud lol

 

I will be in your area tonight, if you want to drive my GP2. I have every bolt on and a custom Stage Manic Tune for the Big Valved Head, I had made. I go to the dealer all the time and even let them drive it. People are giving the dealer way too much power and thinking they can read the ECU or even have the desire or time to.
I know you have been talking about doing some mods for awhile, but tonight could be your night. I will have all my Manic Hardware/Software with me. I'm picking up my 3rd downpipe back exhaust for my new BMW M4. PM me or send me a text and lets make your MINI a safe Monster.
Let me know
Mario

 

For all who doubt whether or not running a Catless DP with Manic Tune will pass emissions test; today it has been accomplished😁

Location: NC, random inspection station... I'm running FBO, Meth kit, Manic Stage II Plus. Left my tune on Map A, turned off all sport mode etc, the Tech took the keys, and sure enough, came back w/my statement : Passed.

I don't know anyone around my area that does sticker slapping. Pretty strict around here. The last time I got away with 5% tint, the shop went out of business several months after. So either, Manic Tune fully deletes the CEL, or this shop does not care. Either way, I know where I'm going next year.

 

That would never work in CA. All the monitors need to run and with the Manic tune the cat and 02 monitors never run.
I just had to install my stock cat/dp and drive for 100 miles on stock tune and all monitors set. There's no other way to trick the DME that the cat is there when its not.
Cannot wait to put the 3" DP in and dial up the meth for the first time.

 

well very pleased with my manic stage 1 . I got the switch so been playing.

So apples to apples comparison with dashcommand.

Stock 250/250 HP/TQ 16 # sustained boost
Map A 255/275 17
Map B 267/299 19.5
Map C 273/322 21.0

Very impressed by TQ increases, HP is what it is, I'll take TQ over HP any day.

SO in a nut shell 10% gain in HP with 29% gain in TQ. Not sure how much is Manic and how much is mods, as DC shows me at 250HP with stock loaded. I plan to get to a dyno and see how much is going to wheels.

I'm still amazed at the numbers out of 1.6L , I wonder when Manic is going to crack the 2.0L ?

And my emissions all seem to be running, got 7/8 ready, just waiting on Evap so switching maps has zero effect on that.
I feel like right now I could spank a stock JCW with my clubman.