Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Another DIY Intake Mod

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  #51  
Old 05-29-2014, 02:33 AM
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FYI there are some cars that have the IAT in the maf sensor, which is every usdm turbo Subaru. So the actual maf air temp is what the ecu goes by in terms of timing compensation based on IAT. A higher IAT will lead to %decrease in timing advance, depending how hot, say 90* will drop your timing by 2*. So to debunk the myth of a generally speaking "sri vs cai" isnt proper. Unfortunately there is no post intercooler IAT in those cars, so the ecu really has no idea how efficient the intercooler is. All you have to do is make sure you get outside air in that intake so the ecu doesn't compensate the commanded timing advance downward.


But I know its diff for mini because they actually used their brain and measured the IAT after the intercooler.
 
  #52  
Old 05-29-2014, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bmx045
FYI there are some cars that have the IAT in the maf sensor, which is every usdm turbo Subaru. So the actual maf air temp is what the ecu goes by in terms of timing compensation based on IAT. A higher IAT will lead to %decrease in timing advance, depending how hot, say 90* will drop your timing by 2*. So to debunk the myth of a generally speaking "sri vs cai" isnt proper. Unfortunately there is no post intercooler IAT in those cars, so the ecu really has no idea how efficient the intercooler is. All you have to do is make sure you get outside air in that intake so the ecu doesn't compensate the commanded timing advance downward.


But I know its diff for mini because they actually used their brain and measured the IAT after the intercooler.
not true to an extent about SRI vs CAI, SRI will heat soak if A you are sitting in traffic, B sitting before the drags with the motor on, C driving slower than 20mph
driving at speed a SRI will see the same temps as a CAI, i have logs off my 370z to prove this(MAF measured IAT and it was N/A no intercooler to mess with the reading), i actually saw lower intake temps than my stock boxes when moving(8 above ambient vs 10 above ambient)
 
  #53  
Old 12-01-2014, 06:35 PM
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I'm not disagreeing with anyone, but why do factories spend the effort and money to pipe in cool air from outside of the engine compartment? Every car I have owned from my 1990 Mustang to this 2013 MINI has had a duct to pull cool air, usually from the front.

Has anyone checked the pressure at highway speeds where the stock pipe pulls next to the headlight? My V6 Camry does that, my VR6 Jetta did that. Maybe they are not after temperature as much as a ram air effect. Maybe both. I know those are NA engines, but MINI went to a lot of trouble to run a lot of ducting to pull air from the outside front.
 
  #54  
Old 12-01-2014, 08:58 PM
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I do not have my 2011 MCS in front of me right now, as she is at the dealer for some warranty work, but I understand the need for cooler air for an intake system. Not sure how much that matters in a turbo application, as the air will be heated by the turbo, and the intercooler is the true factor in cooling the intake charge. The actual FLOW of the air coming into the airbox may make some difference, though. I wonder how convoluted the cold-air intake tube from next to the left headlight to the airbox is. I would think that maybe more concentration should be placed upon a freer-flowing intake from the intake next to the left headlight to the airbox? And maybe some insulation from underhood temps would help as well? I would LOVE more turbo and recirc sound, but that would mean perhaps losing power for the sake of "noise". Noise does make you "feel" like you are making more power, and a "butt-dyno" is very questionable and subjective. I am very intrigued by the thought of a "cowl-induction" type of system to augment the cooler air coming from an "improved" front intake tube next to the left headlight. Just kinda tossing things around. Any other thoughts/opinions are welcomed!
 
  #55  
Old 12-02-2014, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by renchjeep
I do not have my 2011 MCS in front of me right now, as she is at the dealer for some warranty work, but I understand the need for cooler air for an intake system. Not sure how much that matters in a turbo application, as the air will be heated by the turbo, and the intercooler is the true factor in cooling the intake charge. The actual FLOW of the air coming into the airbox may make some difference, though. I wonder how convoluted the cold-air intake tube from next to the left headlight to the airbox is. I would think that maybe more concentration should be placed upon a freer-flowing intake from the intake next to the left headlight to the airbox? And maybe some insulation from underhood temps would help as well? I would LOVE more turbo and recirc sound, but that would mean perhaps losing power for the sake of "noise". Noise does make you "feel" like you are making more power, and a "butt-dyno" is very questionable and subjective. I am very intrigued by the thought of a "cowl-induction" type of system to augment the cooler air coming from an "improved" front intake tube next to the left headlight. Just kinda tossing things around. Any other thoughts/opinions are welcomed!
i had an intake i made on my 2011 but have since went with the drop in filter route due to the look(since im in california the closest i can keep it looking stock, the better), unless you make mounts that really hold the intake, it will move around and scratch up your intake manifold/air filter/air box(if you leave the bottom half in)

with the drop in filter i can hear the turbo spool, blow off and it isnt obnoxiously loud and to top it off on the stock tune i run more boost(was only seeing 13psi with the intake as opposed to 14-16psi with the stock box and filter im averaging 14.9psi for the most part)
 
  #56  
Old 12-09-2014, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniVelvet
As for the whole debate about warm and cold air, wikipedia has entries for both which suggest that warm air is good for fuel efficiency whereas cold air is good for performance. I think most of us would want a good balance of two. My solution? KEG with open bottom.
Screw the dang efficiency!!! Gimme oooomph!
 
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