Drivetrain R53 to R56 Front Brake Conversion aka Poor Mans JCW Brakes Kit
#26
Awesome thanks for the advice. I was just planning on painting, changing pads, and rotors on the rear brakes. I have severe mini ocd so I want the rear and fronts to match also peice of mind knowing everything is "new" and matching. Any suggestions on where and what to get for rotors. I like the look of slotted and drilled but is that a bad idea? Also can you buy just 2 pads? Or do I have to buy 4? Thanks again
#27
Also what is the difference between the R56 S and justa claipers? And what is the caliper/carrier vs just the caliper??
#28
I used the slotted and drilled on the front of my car. I do not track it nor do I plan on it. If it is street driven I would get what you like the looks of. Here is my price list for the hard parts I bought. 2011 R56S front calipers and carriers $130 Just Japenese Imports(?), JCW stickers $16 Supergraphics.com, Red Stuff front brake pads $70 eBay (open package), SS front and rear brake lines $106 Way Motor Works ( you need to specify R56 front and R53 rear), slotted and drilled rotors $145 Autoanything.com (I don't recall the name brand but they were a prominent brand on the web site).
#29
This is a good little guide. I'd like to add that while replacing old brake lines is always a good idea, stainless lines are not needed, and using a high quality and heat stable brake fluid like ATE Super Blue will have more of an impact on braking quality than stainless lines will.
Regarding drilled / dimpled / slotted rotors; it's a contentious topic, but I find that cross-drilled or even slotted rotors have better "bite" in the wet weather. Think of it as tires with special center siping for water dispersion. Some say slots keep the pads even and un-glazed too, but my experience is that there's little benefit other than looks.
Regarding drilled / dimpled / slotted rotors; it's a contentious topic, but I find that cross-drilled or even slotted rotors have better "bite" in the wet weather. Think of it as tires with special center siping for water dispersion. Some say slots keep the pads even and un-glazed too, but my experience is that there's little benefit other than looks.
Last edited by TheBigChill; 03-30-2015 at 06:31 AM.
#30
I used the slotted and drilled on the front of my car. I do not track it nor do I plan on it. If it is street driven I would get what you like the looks of. Here is my price list for the hard parts I bought. 2011 R56S front calipers and carriers $130 Just Japenese Imports(?), JCW stickers $16 Supergraphics.com, Red Stuff front brake pads $70 eBay (open package), SS front and rear brake lines $106 Way Motor Works ( you need to specify R56 front and R53 rear), slotted and drilled rotors $145 Autoanything.com (I don't recall the name brand but they were a prominent brand on the web site).
#33
#35
#36
Yeah the calipers are the same, but the bit that hold the caliper on the car is a different size.
Edit: Here you go.
http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f25/...e-guide-19858/
James
Edit: Here you go.
http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f25/...e-guide-19858/
James
#38
#39
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I apologize for coming in super late to the party, but I am in the process of pricing out this conversion myself now, and have a couple questions. Pretty much just the Level 4 from c0op3r.
http://www.c0op3r.com/MINI/FrontBrakes.html
1- Are the brass slider kits that we get for the R53 brakes not needed for the R56 brakes? I don't see them listed anywhere. I assume the brakes were a better design that doesn't need them?
2- The brake carrier that is needed for the R56S caliper & the 294mm rotors, is that just the other "half" of the caliper that bolts to the hub? It's tough to tell what exactly comes in the box at times.
3- The 2nd pic is from the Rockauto page for the Centric 14134084 caliper. Am I understanding right that I do NOT want a R56 JCW caliper? Sounds like they had 310mm rotors, but is that caliper still interchangable?
Thanks guys. I'm trying to read & keep up, but I want to make sure I get what I need the first time to avoid being without the car.
http://www.c0op3r.com/MINI/FrontBrakes.html
1- Are the brass slider kits that we get for the R53 brakes not needed for the R56 brakes? I don't see them listed anywhere. I assume the brakes were a better design that doesn't need them?
2- The brake carrier that is needed for the R56S caliper & the 294mm rotors, is that just the other "half" of the caliper that bolts to the hub? It's tough to tell what exactly comes in the box at times.
3- The 2nd pic is from the Rockauto page for the Centric 14134084 caliper. Am I understanding right that I do NOT want a R56 JCW caliper? Sounds like they had 310mm rotors, but is that caliper still interchangable?
Thanks guys. I'm trying to read & keep up, but I want to make sure I get what I need the first time to avoid being without the car.
#40
I apologize for coming in super late to the party, but I am in the process of pricing out this conversion myself now, and have a couple questions. Pretty much just the Level 4 from c0op3r.
http://www.c0op3r.com/MINI/FrontBrakes.html
1- Are the brass slider kits that we get for the R53 brakes not needed for the R56 brakes? I don't see them listed anywhere. I assume the brakes were a better design that doesn't need them?
http://www.c0op3r.com/MINI/FrontBrakes.html
1- Are the brass slider kits that we get for the R53 brakes not needed for the R56 brakes? I don't see them listed anywhere. I assume the brakes were a better design that doesn't need them?
#41
Brass sliders aren't available for the R56 S/R53 JCW kits. I'm not sure why, but that's what I've found. The carrier should be correct if you have complete calipers for an R56 S, and is the part highlighted in red.
R56 JCW Brembos had 310mm rotors. I don't think R56 JCW's ever came with red painted JCW brakes like the pic above. Those look like standard R56 S brakes painted red and logo'd like a poor mans JCW conversion. The JCW logo is a first gen logo, and the carrier is a 2nd gen design.
For question #3, you want a caliper that looks like that, even without the red paint. Just make sure you get calipers for an S so they have the correct carriers for the 294mm rotors.
R56 JCW Brembos had 310mm rotors. I don't think R56 JCW's ever came with red painted JCW brakes like the pic above. Those look like standard R56 S brakes painted red and logo'd like a poor mans JCW conversion. The JCW logo is a first gen logo, and the carrier is a 2nd gen design.
For question #3, you want a caliper that looks like that, even without the red paint. Just make sure you get calipers for an S so they have the correct carriers for the 294mm rotors.
#42
#43
I know you have done extensive research and I used your documentation when doing my brake upgrade (Thanks!! ), but can you give some more detail on this? Are brass sliders just not available for these calipers, or is there a design difference that makes them not necessary. I could never find an answer for this, and thought it was strange that brass sliders weren't available, but the calipers seemed to use the same type of rubber sleeves on the pins that would benefit from an upgrade.
#44
I know you have done extensive research and I used your documentation when doing my brake upgrade (Thanks!! ), but can you give some more detail on this? Are brass sliders just not available for these calipers, or is there a design difference that makes them not necessary. I could never find an answer for this, and thought it was strange that brass sliders weren't available, but the calipers seemed to use the same type of rubber sleeves on the pins that would benefit from an upgrade.
This was something that was done for the old 320 and 325 BMWs from which the 1st gen MINI shares brakes with.
The R56/JCW brakes are a completely different style, they use a steel guide pin that inserts directly into the carrier. So basically they already have the solid pin design.
The R53 stock brake has a Steel guide pin that rides in a Plastic/rubber fitting, the plastic is replaced with Brass Guides. It makes it a little more positive but requires maintenance, so MINI did not do it factory for maintenance and cost reasons.
#45
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Thanks for all the replies, guys. I appreciate it.
I did notice the brake lines were different, and found Detroit Tuned to be the cheapest so far for the R56S brake lines ($47.50). And it's kinda handy to see the sliders aren't needed, as I can sell the NIB kit I have to help with conversion costs.
It makes sense about the R56 JCW, but I wanted to ask to make sure.
OK, so about the rest of it.... if I get the Centric 14134091 & 14134092 calipers, those appear to & should come with the R56S bracket I need, according to the RockAuto page. I know some people don't like the reman stuff, but almost everyone I know has had good luck with Centric remans. I think I will call them to see what my core rate would be since I'm not following their page 100% on the part number swaps.
I will just get the proper R56S pads & rotors from wherever. Kinda sucks to see that EBC is changing from gold to black on their Sport rotors... the gold ones I just put on my car won't be easy to match to the new fronts. lol
And I did get your PM, co0p3r... I just wanted to respond to everyone here quick, but I will definitely email you if I get stuck & need more detailed help. It's a simple enough job, but I figured to ask & pay for parts only once.
Thanks again, all!
I did notice the brake lines were different, and found Detroit Tuned to be the cheapest so far for the R56S brake lines ($47.50). And it's kinda handy to see the sliders aren't needed, as I can sell the NIB kit I have to help with conversion costs.
It makes sense about the R56 JCW, but I wanted to ask to make sure.
OK, so about the rest of it.... if I get the Centric 14134091 & 14134092 calipers, those appear to & should come with the R56S bracket I need, according to the RockAuto page. I know some people don't like the reman stuff, but almost everyone I know has had good luck with Centric remans. I think I will call them to see what my core rate would be since I'm not following their page 100% on the part number swaps.
I will just get the proper R56S pads & rotors from wherever. Kinda sucks to see that EBC is changing from gold to black on their Sport rotors... the gold ones I just put on my car won't be easy to match to the new fronts. lol
And I did get your PM, co0p3r... I just wanted to respond to everyone here quick, but I will definitely email you if I get stuck & need more detailed help. It's a simple enough job, but I figured to ask & pay for parts only once.
Thanks again, all!
#49
Lets See:
Stickers $20 (thats front and rear)
Red Paint & Clear Coat $16
Brakes Complete with factory Lines $150 (got a deal in trade from a friend)
Rotors and Pads $220 Shipped (eBay) Thats Front and Rear Rotors and Pads.
New Motul 600 Fluid $9
A little bit of labor
So thats $415 If my math is right
#50
Lets See:
Stickers $20 (thats front and rear)
Red Paint & Clear Coat $16
Brakes Complete with factory Lines $150 (got a deal in trade from a friend)
Rotors and Pads $220 Shipped (eBay) Thats Front and Rear Rotors and Pads.
New Motul 600 Fluid $9
A little bit of labor
So thats $415 If my math is right
Stickers $20 (thats front and rear)
Red Paint & Clear Coat $16
Brakes Complete with factory Lines $150 (got a deal in trade from a friend)
Rotors and Pads $220 Shipped (eBay) Thats Front and Rear Rotors and Pads.
New Motul 600 Fluid $9
A little bit of labor
So thats $415 If my math is right