Looking for a how to,,,or is this a shop job only?

its a major pain in the rear, if you are not very mechanicallly inclined i would not recommend it. as far as a how to, im not to typo inclined so therefore to long a feat for me.....sorry

Just an fyi, but Randy has said that he will be doing one (a How To) soon...

Not that this helps, but on Tuner TV that is on Speed Channel, not too long ago they installed the JCW package for a MINI owner and showed some of the procedure. It was pretty involved including removing the front end and some other major components of the engine. If you can find the episode, it might give you a flavor as to what to expect.

it takes two guys who know what they are doing a solid 5 hours. you need a floor jack (or lift), a special tool to hold the cam in the right place and from rotating so you can torque in the sprocket bolt, and the normal assortment of sockets and wrenches. Impact and air ratchets help considerably.

the cam chain tensioner bolt is challenging to access; 19mm, but no room for a ratchet or normal end wrench. We cut down a box end wrench to about 5", but a combo flex/socket open end wrench would work.

the basic operation is: remove the front end and bumper carrier, support the engine and remove the pass side motor mount, including the bracket on the head and the torque mount arm. disconnect the header bolts. Then start removing just about everything around the head: airbox, intake, CPU and fuse box, wiring harness, throttle body, tach pickup, coil, intercooler and brackets, fuel rail, thermostat housing, intake manifold, valve cover, cam tensioner bolt, cam sprocket (mark a tooth and chain link), head bolts.

Make sure that you clean out the head bolt holes in the block from water/oil. look up the torque spec for the head bolts: after torquing to xxft-lbs(I forget the number), you turn them another 90 degrees. Torque the cam sprocket bolt to spec, and it is a lot, requring the cam holding bracket.

voila'

I would suggest picking up the TIS and ETC Manueals off of ebay or something. They have all of the procedures in there that you will need. As stated it is not an easy process.

>>I would suggest picking up the TIS and ETC Manueals off of ebay or something.
>> They have all of the procedures in there that you will need.

I have these manuals. Could you help me find this procedure?

I REALLY have had problems finding anything useful in there, and just one helpful:

"click here, then click there, then do a dance, and click here" would REALLY help me out.

Thanks in advance.

the torque for the head bolts is 40nm, or 29.5 ftlbs....

I don"t need to swap my head,but anyone good with knees,one of mine is going bad

>>the torque for the head bolts is 40nm, or 29.5 ftlbs.... :smile:

done it and that spec is right witha 90 turn

>>>>I would suggest picking up the TIS and ETC Manueals off of ebay or something.
>>>> They have all of the procedures in there that you will need.
>>
>>I have these manuals. Could you help me find this procedure?
>>
>>I REALLY have had problems finding anything useful in there, and just one helpful:
>>
>>"click here, then click there, then do a dance, and click here" would REALLY help me out.
>>
>>Thanks in advance.

I can give you the number on saturday. I will not be at my buisness computer until then.

i thought it was low myself, checked three diffrent sources to verify, and yes its correct......

TIS:

Vehicle ID: (last7 digits if VIN #)
RArrow
OK
Document
Document Type: (Repair Instructions)
Main Group: (Engine)
Subgroup: (cylinder head)
RArrow
Remove and refit Head
RArrow.

One pitfall can be avoided by un-highlighting a previous selection before RArrow your next selection

by the way, Head to crankcase Torque is listed at 40n-M plus 90 degrees.

head bolts should be replaced if they show signs of stretch...garnered by examining the thread pitch.

_________________
""the onus of proof is on he who asserts the positive."

And shouldn't you use new head bolts with this engine? (torque-to-yield bolts?)

Jeff

yes i was just giving the torque number, you do have to do the additional 90, i should have been more clear, that part had already been discussed........

you should use new head bolds if the original have been stretched, if they have not they can be reused, also minimania sell a head stud kit, which is reusable.....