I'm looking to see if there is a vendor out there that sells just the housing that bolts to the engine for adding an oil cooler to my car. i'm have a cooler, lines and mounts already sorted but i need the housing that attaches to the motor.

Any one know of a vendor that sells this separately from a kit? i approached sneed speed and m7 and they both were not willing to sell me just a housing.

 

Due to high demand we have started selling just the adapter plates. They are located on our site here. http://www.sneed4speed.com/sneedspee...6-2007-and-up/

FYI the M7 and Sneed4Speed kit are the same. They are both made by us (Sneed4Speed)

 

Great Thanks! you just made a sale.

Whats your thoughts on using a thermostat inline with this to aid in warm up during the cold season. I am from Canada!

 

We don't use a t-stat inline because of the flow restriction it creates. We have had no problems with oil temp warming up in the winter. In Canada I dont know, its a lot colder than here. I think you would be better off using an air blocking plate in from of the oil cooler for warm up (like they do on diesel truck radiators in the winter). Then you could remove it once the car is warmed up.

 

Any idea whether this will work for the Countryman (R60)?

 

Yes it will work on the R60

 

Can you confirm what size the inlet and outlet fittings are? i'm looking to use -8.

Crap, just realized i missed the 20% off sale at sneedspeed. Maybe i'll just wait till it goes on sale 20% off again.

 

They are -8. They wont be on sell again until next year at the earliest. I only do that sell once a year at the most.

 

Sorry Sneedspeed but i couldn't stomach the price.

I found a china supplier on ebay that sell the plate CNC machined for $90 shipped. The lines I consider throw aways and i have a nice Setrab cooler with some Earl lines already in my possession.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R56-0IL-F...946078b&_uhb=1

I'll report my feedback once it has been received. I will check the sealing surface for flatness before install. hopefully it doesn't need to be skimmed on a mill to get it flat (i would be surprised it it did)

Its shipping form Suzhou, China. I was there last month for work. Nice place and industry out there is booming. The government is doing a good job of keeping the place clean though.

 

It appears the coolant and oil lines are not separated on that plate but they maybe machined internally, if the coolant goes into the oil your engine is toast.

I pay people in the US to make our plates so I just can't compete with commies working in 3rd world factories for 2 cents a day.

FYI - Earls fittings and line all come from China now so you should just use the stuff that comes in the China kit cause its probably from the same place. We only use XRP, once again made in the US. Because I've use everything else and the XRP is way way better.

Good luck with your kit. If we can be of any help just ask.

 

They are machined internally. I like that feature, less points where a leak can occur. I'm a stickler for joints and areas that could leak. More joints, more possibility for leaks.

I'll check out the quality of the line but likely going stick to my line i have already because i trust it as i have used it in the past. Not a fan of the push-loc stuff even though i know its easier to work with.

i'm excited to have the extra oil capacity for track days this season. Should help with keeping things cool and the engine healthy.

Next thing is to design the bracket to hold the cooler onto the car.

 

We also offer a braided stainless steel line oil cooler kit for people who don't like to use push lock hose or like the way the stainless steel looks better.

 

i have SS line right now. If i didn't already have it i would use the black nylon line. I hate how the SS line is so abrasive against anything it touches no matter how careful you are in routing.

Should i install a oil temp gauge? Might be a good measure of how heat soaked the car is durring a track day.

 

Yes the stainless steel is very abrasive.

We use oil temp gauges on everything. We mount the sensor in the oil pan because that is the most temp consistent place to read from.

 

how would you mount an oil temp sensor to a cms all4 oil pan?

i do not like the idea of the drain bolt adapter

scott

 

We drill and tap the oil pan on aluminum pans and weld a bung into steel pans. Don't use the drain plug adapter, it just causes problems and leaks.

 

any hints or gotchas on locating a bung on the n18 turbo?

i have my gauges, am working on a custom mount, the last probe to locate is the oil temp

i bought prosport 45mm (1.75") electric gauges, oil temp & pressure, boost, water temp and volts

thanks

scott

 

Install about level with the drain plug in the side of the pan. You can go a little higher to make drilling and welding easier. Make sure you install the bung where the sensor won't hit or get hit by things going under the car.

 

I really don't want to drop my pan. clean it up, weld a bung, paint and re-install. How detrimental is it if i choose to just stick it in the housing?

Drain bolt adapter sounds like an awful idea, please stay away from that.

 

No need to drop the pan. Put grease on the drill bit to drill the hole then pour some oil through the engine to push any other debris out, leave the drain plug in. With a steel pan you can also use a magnet to pull debris to the side of the pan. Then check the hole to make sure its clean with no burs. Now weld the bung to the outside of the oil pan and cover the weld with JB weld to make sure there's no pin holes. Install the sender with a slight bit of RTV on the treads to seal it and you're done.

Drill bits are designed to pull the metal away from the hole so very little if any metal shaving will be in the pan after you drill. Just go slow and take your time.

If you must use the port on the oil cooler adapter just remember to use the to cooler port and not the after cooler port to measure temps and that the oil in the pan is about 20F hotter than what your reading on the gauge.

 

I know it possible to do it that way but i'm still uneasy about doing it. On the housing it goes. Good info that it will be 20deg cooler then the pan though.

 

What is the direction of flow? Is the left inlet and right outlet?

The temp port is on the right one. Would i be reading before cooler temps or after if with located there?

 

Chris, where on a R53 pan would you put an oil temp sensor? Are certain areas of the pan thicker then others?

 

The pan is cast aluminum so it's all pretty thick. We install the bungs about 2-3 inches to the left of the drain plug and about 1/2-1 inches off the bottom. Measurement are done looking at the drain plug from the back of the car.

 

Anyone know the answer to this? Still need to tackle a thermostat install in between the cooler.