Drivetrain 17% reduction pulley risks
17% reduction pulley risks
What are the risk of the 17 over the 15. A guy at a shop just tole me a 17 is pretty hard on the supercharger. I wouldn't think it be that much more damaging than the 15 right? I have the iridium plugs to keep it cool, any thoughts?
Colder spark plugs are a given when you talk about installing a reduced diameter supercharger pulley. Most people say go one step colder.
As for the size of the pulley, I run 15%, which seems to be a pretty common choice. Yeah, you can run 17% or 19% but there are risks with each. I'm pretty sure there's at least one thread on the topic here on NAM; give Search a go & you should find it.
My mechanic is a local, independent shop with MINI experience going back to 2002; he's set up and tuned cars for racing teams for a number of years. Before I started modding we had extensive discussions, and his recommendation was 15% for street driving and occasional visits to the red line.
Based on what I've read, and from what I've been told by my mechanic, 15% is the right choice. Your shop guy said the same. You can make your own decision but I'd say there's a pretty good sampling of data right there.
As for the size of the pulley, I run 15%, which seems to be a pretty common choice. Yeah, you can run 17% or 19% but there are risks with each. I'm pretty sure there's at least one thread on the topic here on NAM; give Search a go & you should find it.
My mechanic is a local, independent shop with MINI experience going back to 2002; he's set up and tuned cars for racing teams for a number of years. Before I started modding we had extensive discussions, and his recommendation was 15% for street driving and occasional visits to the red line.
Based on what I've read, and from what I've been told by my mechanic, 15% is the right choice. Your shop guy said the same. You can make your own decision but I'd say there's a pretty good sampling of data right there.
I read online my cooper s doesn't put out torque after 6000 rpms but thats when horsepower peaks. Ive also read about the sipercharger reaching terminal velocity with a 17 reduction at or bedore redline but shifting that high seems less effective because of loss of torque so trips to redline for me are rare. I find the mid range to be more for acceleration and higher up its seems more scream less pull especially when down shifting. It's this accurate information? Any thoughts? Wouldn't this information make the 17 ideal ? Could 2 mm really spin the charger fast enought to do noticeably faster damage to itself than the 15 or even the 16? I'm looking into a new intercooler as well cause I live in Texas and even thought the cold weather was extended this year I'm sure it's gonna be hot here pretty soon.
When i was deciding a cai i couldnt find any information on which was better, like that, i have only found post after post of the same thing. People who swear by what they have,very opinionated posts. i change my mind at least twice each thread i read haha, very few fact based posts. But i guess that the risk in modifying cars, its all personal taste (OPINION) and risk/reward.
When i was deciding a cai i couldnt find any information on which was better, like that, i have only found post after post of the same thing. People who swear by what they have,very opinionated posts. i change my mind at least twice each thread i read haha, very few fact based posts. But i guess that the risk in modifying cars, its all personal taste (OPINION) and risk/reward.
Last edited by usvibud; Mar 4, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
For your reading pleasure https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...5-or-17-a.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-required.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-required.html
Here we go again.....
about a million threads on this......
NO REAL INFO....some folks with 17% have gone lots of miles, some folks with stocks have failed at 60,000 miles....
get what suits your driving style IMO, and just enjoy the car....
IMO DO CHANGE THE BELT YEARLY with a 17%, every 2 YEARS with a 15%....
if you are an intown+highway driver, IMO the 17% is the most fun (mostly "normal driving" with the burst of acceleration to make you smile), but IF you like to take MANY/MOST shifts to RED_LINE, do auto-X, then just do the 15%......and save up $$ for repairs..any car will break when you beat on it!!
about a million threads on this......
NO REAL INFO....some folks with 17% have gone lots of miles, some folks with stocks have failed at 60,000 miles....
get what suits your driving style IMO, and just enjoy the car....
IMO DO CHANGE THE BELT YEARLY with a 17%, every 2 YEARS with a 15%....
if you are an intown+highway driver, IMO the 17% is the most fun (mostly "normal driving" with the burst of acceleration to make you smile), but IF you like to take MANY/MOST shifts to RED_LINE, do auto-X, then just do the 15%......and save up $$ for repairs..any car will break when you beat on it!!
PS
I debated this question for months...I ended up going with the 17% and have been VERY happy. Many other folks that use the same shop had 15%, changed to 17%........Living in the NorthEastern US, we do have cooler temps part of the year, and can find 93, even 94 octane...so that helps too.
I debated this question for months...I ended up going with the 17% and have been VERY happy. Many other folks that use the same shop had 15%, changed to 17%........Living in the NorthEastern US, we do have cooler temps part of the year, and can find 93, even 94 octane...so that helps too.
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No auto x. That's for people with money and brake pads to wear through. Mostly pads xD. Like I said redline seems counter active when trying to accelerate. I guess I'll just go with what I ordered...a 17%. I don't dog on my cooper anyways, it's a investment and my first. We don't need to rev to 9500 rpms to get going like Hondas. It's crazy how hard they rev those k series. 12000 rpm redline I thought haha!!!
What did you guys pay the shop to install the pulley? I'm getting quotes about 450
Im in Houston, San Antonio is also avaliable. Eurocar Werks hasnt giveen me a quote but i said on the phone ive been getting quotes about 450 and he said "oh thats about right" i guess i ****ed myself on that one. PLEASE HELP ME this is the only shop that carries the puller i can find in Houston San antonio area
With 450$, I'd buy the puller and do it myself, then get drunk for a full month :p There's no way it's supposed to cost that much. You remove the belt (with a proper belt tensionner tool :p), you remove air intake, loosen the trans mount, then remove the lower motor mount, then the upper one and jack the engine enough for the stock pulley to show its ugly face. Then use the puller, install pulley and reverse installation for everything you've done. Of course, I'm a mechanic, so it's not something I'm afraid to do, but it's pretty simple and there's a couple great DIY in here.
Im in Houston, San Antonio is also avaliable. Eurocar Werks hasnt giveen me a quote but i said on the phone ive been getting quotes about 450 and he said "oh thats about right" i guess i ****ed myself on that one. PLEASE HELP ME this is the only shop that carries the puller i can find in Houston San antonio area
Many a pulley has been done for a 6 pack and a pizza....450$ is a ok price if it INCLUDES the PULLEY....and a belt....lets face it, a shop should do it in under 2 hours total...Mine was done in about 40 minutes...so 2 hours, at $120 bucks and hour, that $240, $30 for a belt that's $270...leaves about the right amount for a pulley with a decent markup!!
So the prices you are getting are kinda HIGH......heck they can BUY the tools to do the job, THROW THEM OUT, and STILL make $$ on your car....if you are supplying the pulley....
Heck, a good shop will do the pulley at a discount...it is THE GATEWAY DRUG OF SORTS TO MODDING....YOU WILL BE BACK!!
I just need that puller i cant afford the core rental fee of 200 bucks. I work at a dealership and we have a full shop but i didnt want to dig in and have to saw it off and possibly damage the shaft! 



The pullers can pop up used for less...heck new for less....heck rental fee is credited back when shipped back....or buy one and sell it used to recoup most of your $$...you might find a used one, use it, sell it for 90% what it cost ya!!
I hate to say this...if you can't scrape up $200 to let sit on your cc for a week till you ship the puller back and get the credit, owning a mini could be a painful experance....as a premium small car, not an economy car, parts and repairs get to be $$.
I hate to say this...if you can't scrape up $200 to let sit on your cc for a week till you ship the puller back and get the credit, owning a mini could be a painful experance....as a premium small car, not an economy car, parts and repairs get to be $$.
Fact... I have been running a 17% for over two years and not had any issues.
I bought a puller from WMW for $65 and sold it for $45 when I was done. It took me about two hours to install a 15% but I went slow and took my time. Check out Bills Webspace (linked through WMWs site) and follow the step by step instructions. For $450 you can get the package and puller from Way and have enough money left over for beer.
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