Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain JCW brake duct kit

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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 06:22 AM
  #26  
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>>
>>I suspect modifications to the dust shields would be required so the hose can get air to the brakes. We'll see what I can come up with.
>>

You're probably right. I'm guessing there is more to the brake duct kit than is shown in the picture above. (Possibly new dust shields/backing plates with the hose inlet cast into them.)

One concern I have is that in order for the ducts to work effectively, you may have to make the fog light openings larger. This would prevent switching back to the stock configuration at a later date.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 06:35 AM
  #27  
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>>This is something I've been considering for a long time. My only concern would be any cutting that is required, I really don't want to have to cut anything. I suspect modifications to the dust shields would be required so the hose can get air to the brakes. We'll see what I can come up with.

Most likely some cutting is required since there's no clear open path from the fog light area to the brake. The inner wheel arch is in the way.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 07:58 AM
  #28  
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for $200 buck, I'll put on a pair of M7 break ducts :smile:

L
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 11:37 AM
  #29  
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>>Most likely some cutting is required since there's no clear open path from the fog light area to the brake. The inner wheel arch is in the way.

Ya, wishful thinking on my part. I'll see what I see when I'm under the car tomorrow.

Paul
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 04:16 PM
  #30  
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Here's link to a product for the E30M3 which we could probably use. Don't think anyone has made one yet but there are a lot more minis than E30M3s out there, so someone should.

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...DUCT_ID=RE1547
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 05:08 PM
  #31  
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>>Here's link to a product for the E30M3 which we could probably use. Don't think anyone has made one yet but there are a lot more minis than E30M3s out there, so someone should.
>>
>>http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...DUCT_ID=RE1547

Ya, that's exactly what I'm thinking. I'll dig around tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Paul

 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 05:39 PM
  #32  
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Yes that's kinda it....but it's $200+ and you need more parts. $300 is looming in the distance I will see what I can do....

peter
 
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Old Apr 16, 2004 | 06:43 PM
  #33  
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>>http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...DUCT_ID=RE1547

From their website:
The addition of these backing plates and appropriate ducting will increase brake pad life by as much as 50%!
A cooler braking system will also dramatically reduce brake fade and decrease braking distances.

I thought only SOME vendors made claims like this!!!

Now, I do understand that "by as much as 50%" means "We gurantee it won't be more than 50%",
but I really doubt (my opinion) that for normal operation, that brake ducts are going to increase the life of brake pads appreciably.

And get this: "and decrease braking distances" The ABS sets the braking distance NOT the coolness of the brakes! (Unless you have over heated the things up and are getting brake-fade)

So, they have 1 possible claim that is reasonable. "A cooler braking system will also dramatically reduce brake fade"

Sheesh. Vendors drive me crazy sometimes.

Next thing you know, someone will have a carbon-fiber cooling duct or something. 5 new dimentions of driving experience!!!

If you race, you need cool brakes. Add a brake cooling duct. But don't just believe the increased brake life OR shortened braking distance. That could get you killed.

 
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Old Apr 17, 2004 | 06:28 AM
  #34  
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Trippy

Turner is a website that mostly sells parts for your street car which are designed for track use. If you took the time to even look you would see that. Why would anyone buy brake ducts/backing plates expecting to see a huge gain driving on the street? Why would that even cross your mind? Why do you think you need too cool your brakes? To prevent your fluid from boiling, and, abusing your brake pads/rotors. What does that all equate too? If you want to nit pick, and we know you do, it won't physically allow you to stop shorter if the car is in perfect conditions and no fade whatsoever is evident, but thats not when people track their cars. It gets hot and brakes fade, especially stock equipment, very easily. Adding brake ducts helps this and allows you to stop shorter distances compared to stock.

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Old Apr 17, 2004 | 09:30 AM
  #35  
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Because if a problem with the hand made pads I was going to install I couldn't really do much digging around with regards to the ducts. I'll have replacement pads sometime this week and will be sure to poke around.

From the few minutes I was looking, cutting through the wheel well cover will most certainly be mandatory. I'll be at my MINI dealer this Monday so I'll ask if they've got a brake dust cover I can take a look at off the car so I can get some ideas about the changes it would require to accept the ducts. I'm also meeting up witha buddy and an autocross tomorrow that works for a machine and fabrication company. I'm sure the two of us will come up with something.

Paul
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 12:39 PM
  #36  
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Now, although I'm sure they wouldn't be quite as effective, why could you not just go the cheaper route and put on (or build for $5) these, which are intended for the Cooper?



Steve
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 03:42 PM
  #37  
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Steve, those look reasonable. Where did you find them?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 04:35 PM
  #38  
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>>Steve, those look reasonable. Where did you find them?

They're actually on the John Cooper site as well, but they're listed as being for the Cooper, not the MCS. I can't figure out why one would be useable on the MC and not the MCS though. I can actually see more problem with routing the expensive ones on the MCS due to the transmission/clutch differences between the two. (the getrag takes up a LOT more space under the car)

Brake Stuff at John Cooper website

Steve
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 05:12 PM
  #39  
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>>Now, although I'm sure they wouldn't be quite as effective, why could you not just go the cheaper route and put on (or build for $5) these, which are intended for the Cooper?
>>

I can't visualize how these are installed.

Paul
 
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Old Apr 18, 2004 | 06:53 PM
  #40  
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Yeah, I can't quite figure out how they go on either. They do actually have 4 mounting holes (I saw another picture somewhere...just can't recall where right now), that are hidden from view in this shot. It's an additional pair of holes on the portion of the vent that is supporting them in this picture. I'd have to yank a wheel off and take a look around.

Steve


 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 07:06 PM
  #41  
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Anyone figured out or is making these yet??
 
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Old Jun 3, 2004 | 08:15 PM
  #42  
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>>Anyone figured out or is making these yet??

I had the entire front end off a friends MINI a few weeks ago and looked into this at that time. Brake ducts look pretty easy if you route them where the fogs are. The catch would be the need to cut holes into the wheel well plastic. Once you've got the holes fabbing up some tubing (like the JCW kit on the front page) to run from the fog light holes through the wheel well plastic to the brakes wouldn't be that hard.

Paul

 
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 10:00 AM
  #43  
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Yechh... no CF for this idea. Let's remember it's Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic. If your plastic doesn't need reinforcing, you don't need carbon fiber.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #44  
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I'd buy the brake ducts for $250 easily.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 09:45 PM
  #45  
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Darn necro posters!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #46  
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On my '05 S, I made some cheap useful ducting that worked successfully for a Road America event.

Removed front bumper cover, removed fog lights, 2.5" hole had to be cut in wheel well liner. Found acceptable "funnel" in the shape of the inside of your common everyday commuter mug. Bandsawed it off the mug, and dremel tooled the end to mate to the inside surface of the bumper cover contour. A small "L" bracket screwed to the mug and to a mounting in the bumper cover holds it nicely. Used 2.5" spiral neoprene brake duct hose clamped to the funnel and straight back through the wheel well hole (not quite a foot in length per side). Cut the liner hole as close to the inner side as allowable. Straight shot from the fog light hole into the wheel well. I also removed the splash shields for more cooling. Using this setup, Hawkblue pads, Teflon lines and hi temp fluid, let me go the whole weekend at Road America without the usual fade.
If you don't want the holes in the liners after the event, get some of the flexible spoiler plastic from your local stock car racing parts house and cut covers and screw or plastic rivet them over the holes.
 

Last edited by loopracing; Apr 13, 2008 at 07:33 PM. Reason: additions and punctuation
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Old Apr 13, 2008 | 07:39 PM
  #47  
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Waylen (way motorworks) has a nice set of brake ducts. Misfitoy and Gnaster have them

http://www.waymotorworks.com/product...cat=331&page=1
 
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