Drivetrain Boost Gauge
Boost Gauge
Ok, maybe I'm looking over it, but I can't seem to find a How To for installing a boost gauge. Can someone post the link on here, or otherwise give me some sort of direction? Thank you so much.
I found this on the alta site...it should be what you need.
http://www.altaperformance.com/share...ampinr210b.pdf
http://www.altaperformance.com/share...ampinr210b.pdf
I installed the Craven/Marshall gauges, boost and water temp, see here: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-complete-gauge-kit and check out their instructions.
Detailed how to can be found in the pdfs here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-dummies.html
Detailed how to can be found in the pdfs here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...r-dummies.html
I installed a set of Autometer mechanical boost & water temp gauges. For the MINI, the best way to go (mechanically) is to tap into the MAF sensor and route the boost line through the electrical conduit within the firewall. I drilled a small hole in the plastic wall and put a grommet around it so the cut wouldn’t scratch the boost line. My Autometer kit came with the necessary boost tube and connections.
To mount the gauge I suggest the Cravenspeed kit. It’s expensive, but I tried to use the Autometer mounting kit I used was too big. This kit is designed for the Mini, so it fits better, but my gauge has to sit out a bit more than intended to allow the boost line to curve into the gauge still.
If I were to do it again, I’d go electrical gauges with this car so that you can maneuver the wiring through the tight spaces easier. It’s no fun worrying about bending a capillary tube or boost line too much and ruining it, and space is already at a premium.
Any more questions just ask, I might have missed some things. It took a good day to do since I’ve never done anything similar before.
To mount the gauge I suggest the Cravenspeed kit. It’s expensive, but I tried to use the Autometer mounting kit I used was too big. This kit is designed for the Mini, so it fits better, but my gauge has to sit out a bit more than intended to allow the boost line to curve into the gauge still.
If I were to do it again, I’d go electrical gauges with this car so that you can maneuver the wiring through the tight spaces easier. It’s no fun worrying about bending a capillary tube or boost line too much and ruining it, and space is already at a premium.
Any more questions just ask, I might have missed some things. It took a good day to do since I’ve never done anything similar before.
^^ I believe you mean the MAP sensor not the MAF? Also the gauge pods alta sells work similar to the ones mentioned above, they use the tach to mount. Both are pretty much the same so either will work well
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Assuming a mechanical boost gauge: http://www.cravenspeed.com/product_i...4-psiclone.pdf
Alta, NM, etc. all have similar adapters. You don't want to tap into the electrical circuit from the stock MAP sensor as you will confuse the ECU if you don't know what you are doing. If you must have an electrical boost gauge then you would still use the adapter to connect an air pressure -> electrical sender to create the signal to the boost gauge. But why complicate things? Just go mechanical.
Alta, NM, etc. all have similar adapters. You don't want to tap into the electrical circuit from the stock MAP sensor as you will confuse the ECU if you don't know what you are doing. If you must have an electrical boost gauge then you would still use the adapter to connect an air pressure -> electrical sender to create the signal to the boost gauge. But why complicate things? Just go mechanical.
Yep I meant MAP, sometimes I get the Mini and Fox Mustang mixed up!
I sent you a PM but I'll also put it up here in case anyone else is searching later:
I used an adaptor (http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...t_adapter.html). The link I gave you is the one I used, but there's a few out there. It sits underneath the air filter box. Below are a couple photos to give you an idea of how it sits. My Mini is in storage right now so unfortunately I can't grab another photo for you. The first one is without plugging the MAP sensor in, and the second is just before I put the filter box back. A bonus with this type of setup is that I'm not getting any CELs.


The part that you attach your boost line into can't be seen in those photos (it wasn't installed at that point). The back of the blue adaptor has a female 1/8" threaded hole for a boost line. My gauge kit also had brass female connection, so I had to go to the hardware store to find the appropriate male-male brass connection. I think I put a little 3 in 1 oil on the gaskets and I also used liquid Teflon on all the threads to stop any potential leaks.
For the gauge itself, my kit had instructions:
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/100v.pdf (look at the mechanical boost section)
The difference between my setup and the autometer one is that instead of a 'T-Fitting' I used the male-male connector.
Hopefully that helps, if there's anything else I can do to help, let me know!
I sent you a PM but I'll also put it up here in case anyone else is searching later:
I used an adaptor (http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...t_adapter.html). The link I gave you is the one I used, but there's a few out there. It sits underneath the air filter box. Below are a couple photos to give you an idea of how it sits. My Mini is in storage right now so unfortunately I can't grab another photo for you. The first one is without plugging the MAP sensor in, and the second is just before I put the filter box back. A bonus with this type of setup is that I'm not getting any CELs.


The part that you attach your boost line into can't be seen in those photos (it wasn't installed at that point). The back of the blue adaptor has a female 1/8" threaded hole for a boost line. My gauge kit also had brass female connection, so I had to go to the hardware store to find the appropriate male-male brass connection. I think I put a little 3 in 1 oil on the gaskets and I also used liquid Teflon on all the threads to stop any potential leaks.
For the gauge itself, my kit had instructions:
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/100v.pdf (look at the mechanical boost section)
The difference between my setup and the autometer one is that instead of a 'T-Fitting' I used the male-male connector.
Hopefully that helps, if there's anything else I can do to help, let me know!
I installed a set of Autometer mechanical boost & water temp gauges. For the MINI, the best way to go (mechanically) is to tap into the MAF sensor and route the boost line through the electrical conduit within the firewall. I drilled a small hole in the plastic wall and put a grommet around it so the cut wouldn’t scratch the boost line. My Autometer kit came with the necessary boost tube and connections.
To mount the gauge I suggest the Cravenspeed kit. It’s expensive, but I tried to use the Autometer mounting kit I used was too big. This kit is designed for the Mini, so it fits better, but my gauge has to sit out a bit more than intended to allow the boost line to curve into the gauge still.
If I were to do it again, I’d go electrical gauges with this car so that you can maneuver the wiring through the tight spaces easier. It’s no fun worrying about bending a capillary tube or boost line too much and ruining it, and space is already at a premium.
Any more questions just ask, I might have missed some things. It took a good day to do since I’ve never done anything similar before.

To mount the gauge I suggest the Cravenspeed kit. It’s expensive, but I tried to use the Autometer mounting kit I used was too big. This kit is designed for the Mini, so it fits better, but my gauge has to sit out a bit more than intended to allow the boost line to curve into the gauge still.
If I were to do it again, I’d go electrical gauges with this car so that you can maneuver the wiring through the tight spaces easier. It’s no fun worrying about bending a capillary tube or boost line too much and ruining it, and space is already at a premium.
Any more questions just ask, I might have missed some things. It took a good day to do since I’ve never done anything similar before.

I also ordered Cravenspeed flex pod. I have Prosport 60mm Boost on the way.
I was thinking of getting oil temp and pressure to add in 52mm. I wonder if I should add and order water temp gauge as well? I don't mind running four next to my Tach... I already have three cups. I could order one more cup to make it four. It's been done by cravenspeed so..
Anyways The Prosport Boost will be electric. My question will Alta boost port work with electric? IF so how does it work cuz I don't see any instruction of how to hook it up. Is there instructions or place online I can find to have this worked out?
Loved how you had this set up.
I also ordered Cravenspeed flex pod. I have Prosport 60mm Boost on the way.
I was thinking of getting oil temp and pressure to add in 52mm. I wonder if I should add and order water temp gauge as well? I don't mind running four next to my Tach... I already have three cups. I could order one more cup to make it four. It's been done by cravenspeed so..
Anyways The Prosport Boost will be electric. My question will Alta boost port work with electric? IF so how does it work cuz I don't see any instruction of how to hook it up. Is there instructions or place online I can find to have this worked out?
I also ordered Cravenspeed flex pod. I have Prosport 60mm Boost on the way.
I was thinking of getting oil temp and pressure to add in 52mm. I wonder if I should add and order water temp gauge as well? I don't mind running four next to my Tach... I already have three cups. I could order one more cup to make it four. It's been done by cravenspeed so..
Anyways The Prosport Boost will be electric. My question will Alta boost port work with electric? IF so how does it work cuz I don't see any instruction of how to hook it up. Is there instructions or place online I can find to have this worked out?
Alta sold me a boost port adapter and ProSport gauge 5 years ago. There's another "box" that can be mounted on the firewall, to convert manifold pressure / vacuum to an electrical signal. Biggest problem you'll have is finding a convenient power source, and that's not a really big problem.
another question.. Should I go with electric oil temp /pressure as well? I don't like the idea of having to drill into my engine using mechanical approach from what I have been researching in these forums.
Ok where would I find this "box"? is there a name for it? Perhaps I should contact Alta and inquire to them what I'm planning on doing so they can send me their "box" . I imagine I'd have to pay for it as well. (No problem)...
another question.. Should I go with electric oil temp /pressure as well? I don't like the idea of having to drill into my engine using mechanical approach from what I have been researching in these forums.
another question.. Should I go with electric oil temp /pressure as well? I don't like the idea of having to drill into my engine using mechanical approach from what I have been researching in these forums.
No help with oil monitoring.
My next question is should I also get Water Temp gauge as well since that is what cools off the turbo correct? I was told that Oil also cools it off but that can't be right cuz Oil retains heat longer and does not cool off easily. Correct me if I am wrong here with the way turbo is set up works in R56.
I am still wondering if Oil Temp/Pressure is good idea to have?
Last edited by neopill; Oct 14, 2016 at 10:53 PM. Reason: clarification of sentence wording
I got the Prosport Gauge. I see what you mean all the stuffs that comes with it in the "box".
My next question is should I also get Water Temp gauge as well since that is what cools off the turbo correct? I was told that Oil also cools it off but that can't be right cuz Oil retains heat longer and does not cool off easily. Correct me if I am wrong here with the way turbo is set up works in R56.
I am still wondering if Oil Temp/Pressure is good idea to have?
My next question is should I also get Water Temp gauge as well since that is what cools off the turbo correct? I was told that Oil also cools it off but that can't be right cuz Oil retains heat longer and does not cool off easily. Correct me if I am wrong here with the way turbo is set up works in R56.
I am still wondering if Oil Temp/Pressure is good idea to have?
Coolant cools the turbo. Oil lubes the turbo bearings. Both are critical to proper turbo operation. Because of the extreme high temps of turbo operation, synthetic oil is highly recommended. Non-synthetic oil will break down under turbo temps.
Water temp is convenient to know, but not as important as oil temp / pressure. I live in the high desert where summer temps get well over 100 deg and winter temps get below freezing, so I installed a coolant temp gauge for convenience. During summer, when I'm caught in "parking lot" traffic, I use the coolant temp to know when to turn on the "reserve" coolant --- MAX A/C. During winter driving, I know when to turn on the heater and get heat.
I still haven't installed any oil gauges --- just too lazy and trusting, plus I already have three gauges. And, I've never yet had an oil pressure / temp problem --- on any of the many cars I've owned. Oil pressure and temp are critical to engine operation, but if you monitor them, you should know what the values are supposed to be under all operating conditions, so you can respond when they fall outside the desired parameters --- too much info for me to retain for the type of driving I do.
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