Drivetrain My build thread.
#327
06-06-2013, 09:48 PM
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#328
06-07-2013, 07:03 AM
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#330
06-07-2013, 11:48 PM
#332
06-11-2013, 02:40 PM
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#336
06-17-2013, 12:58 PM
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#337
08-13-2013, 03:25 AM
Got the head in the mail a few weeks ago. Forgot to post an update. I can only take these forums repetitive nature for so long. Anyway it was ported polished and had a valve job done. It looks nice. Now for the bad new.... I spent all my extra money on a new Snowmobile so the head wont be going on till next summer.
#338
08-13-2013, 04:53 AM
Got the head in the mail a few weeks ago. Forgot to post an update. I can only take these forums repetitive nature for so long. Anyway it was ported polished and had a valve job done. It looks nice. Now for the bad new.... I spent all my extra money on a new Snowmobile so the head wont be going on till next summer.
I can understand the snowmobile. I used to ride them all the time when I was younger. That is one of my favorite memories with my family.
#339
08-13-2013, 05:37 AM
Im actually going to get get on the dyno in a few weeks, see what it is putting down. I suspect it will only be around 240ish with my old tune and the current configuration. Then hopefully after I get the head, and probably cams installed next summer i'll have a retune and ill post that dyno too.
#341
08-13-2013, 02:01 PM
#342
08-13-2013, 04:10 PM
Im actually going to get get on the dyno in a few weeks, see what it is putting down. I suspect it will only be around 240ish with my old tune and the current configuration. Then hopefully after I get the head, and probably cams installed next summer i'll have a retune and ill post that dyno too.
#343
08-13-2013, 05:41 PM
#345
08-14-2013, 10:08 AM
I have been thinking about trimming the top of my strut towers for some time now. The bulge is there to add structural support, helping to avoid mushrooming and bending.The down side is the small diameter of the opening makes it a pita to adjust camber plates. After trimming the bulge I would add a strut tower brace that includes full strut tower plates, ie. NM or M7. this should provide the same if not more support then the original design. I found some pictures from a mazda site to help explain what I mean. I am wondering if anyone had done this, and what opinions on it would be?
From this
To this
From this
To this
I would have done this a long time ago but SCCA Auto-X classing doesn't allow it
#346
08-15-2013, 04:24 PM
Not sure if you ever got an answer on this but it's not all that uncommon on dedicated race cars. There are many camber plates that are designed to be welded in where you cut the top of the strut tower off and weld in the camber plate. There are also plenty of others where you remove the raised part like in the pictures so that you have more camber adjustment. However, they typically they have more than three bolts to distribute the forces. Just haven't seen anyone do it on the mini yet
I would have done this a long time ago but SCCA Auto-X classing doesn't allow it
I would have done this a long time ago but SCCA Auto-X classing doesn't allow it
#349
10-04-2013, 05:37 PM
Next summer sometime, and thats ok with me. I need to put my head on still. Funny thing is that still has my old RMW tune on it. I'm pretty sure the dyno operator left the final drive ratio at 1-1 and that is why the results are total crap. Final drive for the R56 is 3.XX