[FONT=Calibri]Need some Help / Suggestions….. My 2006 R53 will turn-over but won’t start. My car has been running fine ever since I installed a TPR2 head, NS1 cam and ported intake about 3 months ago. I do have a code 1498 ever since installation which I believe is a post SC leak that I have not been able to locate. The code (leak) hasn’t seemed to effect performance. Three days ago my car was missing bad at start up. I turned it off right away and checked codes with reader. The 1498 code was the only one which I cleared. I then restarted the car with no problem. I drove about 3 miles to the store and it restarted fine for my trip home. The next morning it turned-over but wouldn’t start. After a few tries, the car started but felt like it was running on one cylinder. I then checked for codes which showed nothing. Fault Isolation: I checked the plugs which were wet with gas and all plugs have spark. I replaced the coil with a good one that I had and still no start. All the vacuum lines and boost line seem to be OK. I’ve check compression (cold engine) which is good (about 110 on all cylinders). The battery is new and charged. Yesterday I removed the bumper, etc for service mode and didn’t see anything lose. I’m suspecting the MAP sensor, TMAP sensor or computer. Any suggestions on how to test these sensors or most likely part to replace? [/FONT]

 

Also my car has 40,000 miles on it and the GIAC 17% 380s tune. Thanks!

 

what codes do you currently have and 110 is a bit low on compression
but if they are all even it could just be the gauge.
What makes you suspect the map sensor.
though it is possible.

 

I currently have no codes. It only ran for about 10 seconds and very poorly like hitting on one cylinder so mabe that wasen't enough time to store a code. The compression gauge was a cheap Harbor Freight gauge and the motor was cold. I have the Bentley Manual and the "Diagnostics without guesswork" book which says that the car will run very poorly if the MAP or TMAP is bad. Also, the 1498 code that I've had for some time has to do with intake pressures according to this forum.

 

Any Ideas on what to check? What would make the timing off? I did replace the timing chain tentioner when the head was changed and it hasen't made any noises. I didn't get a chance to get back into it last night, but plan to tonight.

 

As far as MAP sensors go, the one that normally fails is the one in the intake, and it will have an effect on starting & idle, an easy (but not definite) way to check to see if it's the problem is to see if you can force start the car by giving it fuel (pumping the pedal a little) then if it runs but runs rough, see if it smoothes out above 2500 or so, if it does, then there's a good chance that it's gone bad.

Like I said, not sure fire, but at least it's a check that may justify buying the MAP sensor.

 

Thanks! ......I assume "one in the intake" is refering to the pre-SC MAP sensor? Last time it ran (for about 10 seconds) I had to give it gas to run at all. It might have hit 2500 RPMs but always sounded like it was on one cylinder.

 

No, the one on the intake manifold itself, right in front of you ( a little to your right...lol)

 

Got it, Thanks! I'll take another look after work today.

 

 

Check your fuel rail pressure to rule out fuel distribution issues. Just recently solved my start issues. Only had 22psi upon priming. That's about 30+psi short. Yoyo'd like crap if it ever started but threw no codes. Checked the fuel pump only to find out it had a broken hose feeding the filter. Replaced w/ SAE30R10 submersible coupled hose. It was 1 rare case for the X-Files.

 

I checked fuel rail pressure which was good. It was the plugs! I had checked for spark with different plugs attached to the wires. I did look at the plugs (1 year old Brisk Silver) and they were light black like I had seen before. I've had 40 years of cars and never had fouled plugs. I'm a believer now. Three of the removed plugs measured 3 to 5 Kohms from tip to threads and the 4th measured megohms.

I also got rid of the code 1498 that had been bugging me for some time. I was the oil catch can whick had a leak. I removed it since it never had any oil in it.

 

Glad you got it sorted.

 

Seems like you guys are up to par on this problem. Can you figure this one out?

My 03 S started fine today (3 days after oil change, new plugs and wires). I drove 70 mph on the highway for about 10 -15 minutes then stopped at the grocery store. I was in the Grocery store for about 20 minutes then tried to start my car. It started ...for a bit but idle was about 500rpm. I went about half a car length and it died. I tried starting it again and it just cranked. Lights are fine, gauges work, no codes (I keep a code reader in my car as a just in case measure). Battery was replaced 6 months ago for same issue and Fuel filter is 2 years old.

This happened last week as well and before that it was about 6 months ago. Last week I said "F@#$ it!" and walked home (lucky I live about 20 min. away). Let the car sit at the grocery store overnight, came back the next day and it started right up w/ no issues.

Today.....I walked home.....again.

Any ideas?

Thanks in Advance!

 

Update:

I left the S at 1730. Walked home...drank a beer.....wrote the previous post after a LOT of searching for something similar. At 2015 I decided to walk back to the car and see if it'll start up. Sure enough...it started. I noticed though that I had to rev the rpm's a bit before driving because it felt as if it was going to stall again but it did well. Drove it home. Turned it off. Restarted with no hitch.

 

it's been 2 days and I have noticed that the S idles a little rough (hits 500 rpm) at random points in stop and go traffic. When it starts, it idles rough and dies. It then starts fine afterwards.

I'm contemplating a Jeep Moab.....

 

Anyone?

 

My car stranded me at my sons school. got towed home and put her in the garage. after a dozen failed attempts at the school and 6 in the garage. it started. So I took a guess and ordered a fuel pump. drove the car for a week. yesterday it started idled and died. Switched out the fule pump in the street in front of my house. Which was a ***** getting the retainging ring on. and she started right up and drove me to work today. This weeked I get to replace the supercharger as it is rattleing louder than I rember. so it is time. That part is waiting in the garage too. Og BTW Im now at 195K miles still origional super, so it is time. My guess is the fuel pump.

 

I drove home from work today and stopped at the store. When I got back in the car it wouldn't start again. I said a few choice words ( ) and called USAA for towing service to a local shop.

I noticed that when the car is parked on a hill it wont start but when pointing downhill it starts right up. I cant imagine that the Fuel Pump is affected by the angle the car is parked.

Oh well.....the Shop has it now and hopefully it's an "easy" fix.

 

Just a thought..

I had a very similar problem with mine and after changing the fuel pump we went a different route and found the culprit in the fuel pump RELAY rather than the pump itself. Once we changed the relay, it was problem solved.

Thanks to Scott at Motoring Magic for a solution that I wouldn't have expected.

Good Luck!

Jim

 

The shop called and said it was the fuel pump that needed to be replaced. Then they said it would be $1100 out the door w/ 4 hours of shop time. If a pump costs around 300 that would mean they are charging 200 an hour? I'll do it myself.

 

Did your car have the same problems? Won't start on a hill but will on a level surface?

 

It will take an hour. Budget 2 to do. Make sure to order the mini brand seal ring. My pump was aftermarket and the seal would not fit. I had a mini brand seal and could get the ring back on. Hammer and flat blade screwdriver will help you remove and attach the ring. To get it the ring threads started you must. Stand with the heel or toe of your shoe to apply enough down pressure for the threads to catch. Putting the ring on took me an hour. About 15 min to switch the pump.

 

 

Here is a complete step by step on how to do it.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm