Spent the last few months doing engine work, and now I'm starting to think about how I'm going to get that power to the ground. I know there are a number of threads in the archives that deal with clutch reviews, but it seems like a few of them fall off after initial review and never come back to explain.

So far I've found that the clutch options are OS Giken, ClutchMaster, ACT, Valeo, or the OEM clutch. Here's what I've gathered so far...

OS Giken: Solid product, very expensive, tough for a daily driver
CM: Durability issues, longevity issues, seems to be 1 good comment for every bad one
ACT: Saw one or two good things, then saw a few bad
Valeo: Sounds like a nice setup, but not for power much above stock levels
OEM: Doesn't sound like it will handle large power jumps

Here's where I'm going to be with the motor at the end of this month, which is when I will start looking for a clutch. Thumper TPR-1 head, NS1 cam, Adjustable cam gear, ported/polished intake manifold, OBXr header and test pipe, Stratmosphere catback, Sprintex supercharger, Mynes FA-53 software. I'm not really sure what power numbers that setup will bring, so I don't want to throw any out there and look like an idiot, or have that become the focus of the thread.

Can anyone offer any opinions on a quality clutch setup for this sort of power level? I'm also looking into an LSD since I'll be in there already. Thinking about buying an OBX and replacing the gears inside with stronger ones. We'll see though.

I appreciate any help!

 

I'm also needing a new clutch and have read ALL the threads. Your conclusion is about what I got from the reading. Although the OS Giken has a newer model, the GT series, which seems to be a much better option for a DD and still handle the 250+ hp cars. I'm leaning towards the OS GIKEN GT just trying to justify the addidtional cost.

 

This will be my first time buying an aftermarket clutch, so I may be going about this with the wrong mindset. But its difficult to justify such a high price for a clutch. Especially when I'm going to have to factor in the cost of an LSD as well.

But, if I'm going to spend $800 and have problems after 3000 miles, the extra cash could very well be worth it.

 

Act C/fw is a great combo. Stock pedal feel and little to no chatter with Redline light weight shock proof oil. OS has a ton of chatter and is insanely priced.

 

I was around an OS Giken STR all weekend and thought it was pretty quiet for what it is and compared to some other clutches (SPEC). It does make noise, but I don't think it is a deal breaker. Pedal feel is fine and it could be used on the street. The GTS is supposedly even more quiet.

 

I agree with Mental, I work on these cars a ton with a Vendor and i have used almost every clutch that you guys are talking about, Only exception to that is Spec.
I really like the OS STR but the GT clutch is even more friendly. according to them will hold around 350 max the STR slightly more.
The Clutchmasters clutch is around 800 i think with a flywheel and works alright. but they are not my fave thats for sure.
My advice would be to spend the money and buy the GT they have great service and its a top quality part. Its also easy to drive. Just make sure you don't hesitate to let them out.
Most of the problems i see with people going to a non stock clutch is they don't just let it out.

 

When you say don't let the clutch out, I'm assuming you mean people that ride the clutch? That's what would cause the glazing, correct?

I feel like Giken is the "easy" recommendation. Is that really the way to go regardless of cost? If it is, I completely understand. I'm all for quality. It just seems hard to believe that it is so expensive to get a quality clutch for a Mini when there seem to be quality clutch setups for other cars for much less. Then again, this car is much more expensive to work with than any other car I've been involved with.

 

I remember back in 2005 when some of the Japanese imports were making making easy 600whp and people would change out their cheap clutches like used underwear. The race clutches like Exedy Twin Carbon and the ATS/Carbonetic Twin and Triple Carbon clutch kits were like $2300 to $3000 each... and the Tilton were around $4000 for a clutch.

There is an old saying in building a fast fun or race car: Cheap, Fast and Reliable = you can pick 2 out of 3 and deal with the 3rd one

 

Another old saying is "Speed costs money, Son. How fast do you wanna go?".

 

Usually clutches that have extra holding power have a more agressive friction material ....this means they they tend to wear faster....also they usually have strong pedal forces....something many folks do not like in a daily driven car...espically in traffic...
Anoth consideration....
Which flyeheel to use....stock is a dual mass, $$$, but makes car smooth....
std weight solid is cheaper, but can allow mor vibrations...some chatter maybe...
and lightweight ones...espically aluminium ones chatter tons..and can make hill starts tuff...
Due to vibrations, a spung clutch is often used...prevents self engagement from vibrations..= more noise....
So weight the posibilites carefully......the stock clutch is right for 90%....heck people do race with them...generaly accepted ok to aroung 220 whp or so.....

 

I could be very naive here, but I'm hoping to be higher than 220 whp. It just doesn't seem right to replace my stock clutch with another stock clutch after putting so much work into the motor. But if it will work, I'll consider it.

So far, it seems like I've really only heard concrete good reviews in favor of the OS Giken, which does not surprise me in the least. I'm considering it, but that's really not the route I'd like to go financially. That being said, I've tried to buy quality parts up to this point, so I probably shouldn't stray from that now that it comes time to put power to the ground.

Anyone want to sponsor my build with a free clutch?

 

Will you put a big picture of me on both doors and your hood?

 

Well what kind of cars were you into before the mini?
Was it a pretty large community compared to this one?
that would drive the cost lower.
My friend Has 40k on his OS GT
so their is that argument.
when i talked to clutch masters they said that anything over 25k on one of their "Performance clutches" was doing well (stage3/4)
I really would buy the OS, thats what ill get for my car when my stock one eventually dies
I have 94k and 270 hp so its not that your stock clutch will not hold power
Just don't be a Jerk to it.
The chatter and sound you get is really not as bad as some make it out to be.
its also down to putting proper gear oil in it. 75W-90 helps a ton.

 

Clutches are usually measured in lbs. torque hold, not HP. However, I have done a good amount of research on this topic lately, as I have a Spec Stage I sitting on the shelf. After what I have read, I will stick with OEM or Valeo. Some people in the forum have quoted the OEM can handle as much as 250 HP (guessing the clamping torque force is not high enough to cause excessive wear on the clutch pads).

I still want to install my aftermarket flywheel. I chose the ACT steel one because it's roughly 1/2 the mass of the original (13.8 lbs vs. 27 lbs). So I will still need a sprung clutch to go along with it (stock is unsprung). I consulted with a guy that auto crosses alot, and he recommended against going less than 1/2 weight. Most or all of the aluminum versions are only 11 lbs., and they do chatter alot (no firsthand experience; just what I have read in the forums and discussed abroad).

I have ~92K on the stock clutch, and it is still holding well, so I'm tempted to do nothing until it wears out.

 

Jack did you even read my post...
and as far as the horsepower it will hold that is just what they told me.
I do prefer a steel flywheel.

 

Done. Pleasure doing business with you.

Thanks for the other responses. I'm tempted to just leave the stock clutch until it goes, then make a call. That might actually be the way I go, since that will allow me to get an idea of just how effective the stock clutch is with the new setup. Who knows, maybe I'll go back to that.

I've recently been bit with the exterior modification bug, and I want to get that started. Going down to H2o made me realize how ugly my car is compared to some others. But dropping the money on wheels and tires would mean that's money I don't have for a clutch. Decisions, decisions.

 

Colin,

I guess I missed your response. Was bouncing around through several sites/forums yesterday.

 

The stock clutch started slipping with E85+Sprintex 60mm (260+WHP, 220WTQE on a DynoJet).

 

Any thoughts off the top of your head on what I can expect power wise assuming 92 octane fuel? I may try to get a map together for e85 as well, but its sort of a pain to get around here. Or I should say nowhere near as convenient as 92.

 

Nope, we don't predict HP # based on mods (and you should run the other way from anybody who tries to do so based on a mod list)... We only post up results from our own findings and you can deduct or extract info that you deem useful or applicable.

The HP Matrix based on our testing is posted here (DynoJet Dyno):https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...138-post4.html

 

Thanks for the link. That's fairly useful. It looks like I need to get e85 going with those numbers!

 

And based on that matrix, it does not appear that I will reach the 240tq number at the wheels. So it sounds like the Valeo should do the job for me. That's nice to know, especially because of the price tag difference. Any objections?