A ac electric motor requies about 3 to 4 times its running watts to relilibility start...and that is with a pure sine wave...not the modifed sine wave that 90% of inverters make...
With that thee is a reduction in effecency....so you need a bigger surge to start...so you 400 running watt fridge needs 1600 watts to relilibility start...next size up from a 1500 is 2500....
Then you need to modify the shape of the cold plate in the fridge.....and then the relocate the hot side radiator of that fridge...seal it, and refil it.....not to mention put in somewhere....but it still comes down to btu's...simple math....number of btu's for a given temp change over period of time....petliters and mini fridges both make cool due to a very limited volume....and are thus both pretty punny...you need to think big...
Like install a second ac compressor..more effecency, less complexicty, more capicity!!

 

Okay, so my question is with all the space requirements and inefficiencies this will introduce, will it actually add any net gain? I had this idea many years ago for a Regal Grand National, which has boatloads of room in front of the engine and a relatively small intercooler, I came up with the same thought, about an aux AC compressor, etc but all that heat has to go somewhere and Im just not sure it would be worth it, you would have to run the compressor constantly or the IC would add heat in, not take it out.
I think an air to water with a trunk-mounted ice-chest would be better and for just general running around, would still cool to near ambient. Fill up the ice-chest for track days. The other alternative would be an air to water with 2 exchangers, one cooled by a standard radiator loop and one by the compressor cycling freon (evaporator). That would be capable of lowering your intake temp under ambient, a std air-to-air or air-to-water can never do that, it defies the laws of thermodynamices because you are not adding energy into the system (compressor horsepower) to remove energy (refrigeration (- BTUs)). It is nice to see people thinking however, thats how engineering breakthroughs come about sometimes.

 

I had a 87 Grand National, rigged up a IC spray . All I got was a hot wet intercooler! . Because the water bottle was under the hood it got hot. You could throw some ic in the bottle but that was going to a waste of time really. A intercooler will not run more than 212* on its outside , well it won't unless you're running on the Bonnieville Salt Flats. So hot water sprayed on a hot ic will get you a hot wet ic . Its the change of phase thats gets the BTUs out,not evaporation.

 

....evaporation is a change of phase

But I do agree with you, water doesn't do a whole lot on the IC.

This thread is just full of engineering brilliance. Let's try to come up with the most complex solution to a simple problem.

 

I took three of these, scattered them around the engine bay, pointed them at the intercooler, filled them with 50/50 water/meth, and powered them through the cigeratte lighter. Hit a switch, and IAT's drop 10 degrees or more. Now THAT'S engineering!

 

Going back and reading the OP, the owner has already done one thing I thought about. The sig says M7 scoops all around. I take this to mean the M7 Extreme Scoop and the top bonnet scoop for an outflow. That definitely improves airflow. From there, either go with the GP IC, or get the DoS. And I have not seen a diverter designed for the DoS unit. Not to mention the fact you're gonna get into heated debates of aluminum vs. copper.

The only other options is a front-mounted intercooler, whether it be A2A or W2A.

As I mentioned painting the GP IC with radiator paint earlier, here is the link I have used before that explains the thermal advantages of doing so: http://www.molalla.net/members/leeper/coatbar.htm. Now, the DoS already has a coating. This would be for any other A2A solution you decide to go with.

 

frozen water, liquid water (rivers,clouds,rain drops,sweat ,etc) steam

 

Thanks for the chemistry lesson

If you put LIQUID water on a hot IC and it disappears (evaporates), what the heck do you think happened to it? Changed phase into a gas...ie steam.


Careful, you're killing the deep engineering discussion. While they try to figure out how to cool an IC 1 degree with a fan at a stoplight, we'll be out at play with sub-ambient IAT's all day long. Chemical intercooling FTW.

 

+1 to chemical intercooling

 

the dumbest idea?! The idea and literal concept that happens to be on every water cooled engine ever made since the early 1900's?!

.... And the nominal amount of heat made by a small electric motor is nit going to affect anything in the system. Besides, the fans are self cooling... I mean, they are fans.

And by M7 scoops all around, I guess I meant the front scoop, and the cowl scoops as well. I dont fancy cutting a hole in my hood for an exit air channel. TMICs will all experience heat soak, so it's fairly pointless, IMO, to use that setup.

 

Key here is "water cooled".....

 

Well, CTT if you want to be technical, the only water cooled engine ever built is on a boat. All engines are air cooled, it just depends on how the heat gets out of the block and into the air, ala early VW/Porsche/Corvair engine jug fins and oil to air radiators. Sorry, I know those cars are OLD .............. LOL so am I.
And I agree that alcohol would be more effective but it requires refilling and maintenance. Ahhh sorry, I forgot, I need to go outside and rotate the air in my fan bearings from winter to summer, I'll be right back ...............

 

We can argue semantics all day, but everyone knows what we're talking about.

A water/meth kit requires no more maintenance than a windshield wiper fluid reservoir. 100% meth requires more diligence, but anyone who is thinking of installing fans or water/meth for that matter should be more than capable of filling a tank once in awhile. And if you're running water/meth and it runs out, it's not an issue, just fill it next time you need it. Depending on where you live, that may be just for the summer anyway.

There are two ways to eat: you can bring the fork directly from your plate to your mouth, or you can bring your fork from your plate, wrap your arm around the back of your neck, and aim the fork at you mouth. I prefer the first technique, while some are still trying to perfect the second.

 

But i love reaching around my @$$ to scratch my elbow!

also, from several replies ago, the Concept of using Fans to cool an IC is basically the common RADIATOR. the mentioned theory that a "hot fan will be used to cool an IC" is silly, and that is all i was trying to express.

yes, water / meth kits are sweet, for $500, ect.

i still feel, that a lot of people are starting to fall off track here, as we ARE trying to re-invent the wheel in a Rube Goldberg way of cooling ICs!!! I think its FUN, and we may actually come up with something if we keep talking about it!

 

Yes, but there is a reason that radiators are not placed horizontally on top of engines - they need room to put a fan behind them.

 

 

holla, thats me right there ..............

 

better start talking....(about fans on a intercooler)

 

I can do much more than talk
www.ironhorsecoopersports.com

 

Your website has no information about the fan upgrade. How well does it work, how are the fans switched on etc

 

JPMM, the fans are experimental and are still being evaluated. I tried these first on the stock intercooler and they were very close to useless because of the tiny size of the original IC and the minimal face and blow-though (supply) areas. These fans are just slightly shorter than the new face height and are effective at low road speeds under boost, as at a track day on a tight course or the kinds of heavy boost touring that our local club does. I do not have a data-logger to supply continuous measurements. Mine are connected to a remote thermostat with probe in the intake manifold tract on the cold side, and I may eventually construct and sell a plug-n-play kit if there is enough interest but that would be a major undertaking and may not be financially feasible. Right now the fans will come pre-mounted to the IC with terminated electric leads, as an option. When thats posted it should be right around a $100 - 105 adder including all hardware, still sharpening down on supplier choices, could be less. The customer would have to decide how he wanted to trigger them. The other thing Im planning soon is to add a delay relay that will keep them running for about 10 - 15 min after the engine shuts down to ventilate the engine comp't heat through my louvered hood. Electrical comp'ts often fail not from running heat but from the post-beating baking they experience after a "lively" afternoon drive and then engine shut-down.

 

how about just putting one fan on the hot side? Really don't need it on the cool side anyways.

 

JPMM, that would prob work too, I was attempting to balance the face area loss with the amount of forced CFMs I could jam through the aluminum fins. This design doubles the low-speed airflow, but even at that, may not be needed under most conditions.