So here is my dilemma, I am going to give my car a second chance at a new, new clutch since the Valeo kit did not work for me. I am not completely sure the Valeo kit was a bad choice. In my situation, I think it was a bad clutch bleed maybe causing the clutch disk to glaze beyond recovery. I vented on another thread about the Valeo but I did not really trash the kit since the quality seemed excellent. For a stock car the Valeo is an excellent choice.

So to that effect, I'm asking the experts here on NAM (who also have experience using an aftermarket clutch/FW kit on their cars) to guide me into the best choice (clutch kit and FW) under $1000. So far I narrowed it down to the ACT HDSS, Clutch Master FX200 or Competition Clutch, all with their respective FW.

Which one, in your opinion, will be the best bang for your buck in terms of reliability, life and performance?

Issues?

Problems?

I am leaning towards the Cometition Clutch kit since it comes with the FW right at $695, but the voices in my head are telling me that the ACT is a better choice. What do you guys think?

Also, the reason I am not going with OS Giken is because I just put new wheels and tires in my new Jeep Wrangler Unlimited so I would feel guilty if I dump a lot money on this project.

Did I miss any other clutch brand that may be a good choice?

Thank you,

Mininuke...

 

Might want to change the thread title a bit - think you're missing a word or two

 

Done! Thanks for catching that. It's hard to type with the iPad on autocorrect.

 

I have heard that you want to avoid the FX200 due to materials used. THe FX400 is the preferred one and holds up much better

 

ebay shop the ACT....I think the one i just used came in around 7 bills and change...and I swear by them....well, don't swear, but I really like them and it's holding my power and makes a nice noise when you let off and coast in gear...well I think it's a nice noise, definitely not a noise everyone likes, but it says, "I mean business" when pulling up to a light...
Really like your car btw....

 

Oh thanks. Yesterday I was browsing eBay and placed the ACT HDSS on my watch list.

 

I have the ACT XTSS clutch/flywheel (~14lbs.) It's been fine for me for the past 2-3 years. One thing: the ACT site does not have MINI products listed/available any more. You may wish to contact them directly before buying anything off of eBay.

We had trouble getting one in the first place and only chose it when another brand was not immediately available (blown out at Sebring, but that's another story altogether.) I'm not sure I would buy one again because of the availability for the MINI.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

All the people I have talked to who have used ACT have liked them. It's good stuff.

 

Here's my initial review of the CM Fx200 + flywheel

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...el-review.html

My FX200 fried in about 10,000 miles. I just do normal driving 50/50 city/highway. The clutch material wore off completely. The flywheel had hot spots on it. We never figured out the problem.

It was replaced with a new Fx400 and flywheel ring. That clutch has about 20K miles on it and still bites very hard and very fast. Haven't really had a problem with that set. The only thing is I don't like about the Fx400 is that over time and use, the biting point gets inconsistent depending on temp. With a cold start, it doesn't bite very well and it's hard to predict when it'll bite.

Now my actual two cents. Don't go after market. Just go stock. I've learned over the years of modding that unless you are going to absolutely mod EVERYTHING and you're ready to replace EVERYTHING with aftermarket stuff, then do as you like. I think there's something to be said about messing with the balance of a car. Changing your clutch system to something that is so powerful will only wear down other parts of the car. Because that bite is so strong, all that extra force eventually wore down my exhaust hangers near the front, my engine mounts, control arm bushings...etc. Of course, age has something to do with that as well, but I don't doubt that a powerful clutch accelerated the wear and tear process of some of those parts. YMMV. The only thing I'd considered keeping is a light flywheel.

 

You made a good point there. Thank you.

 

I actually read your review on FX200 and had it on my car.

To my biggest disappointment, it also failed in around 12k miles with material word out and a few hot spots.

I'm back to my original dual-mass flywheel and a new OEM clutch now. But I do feel the flywheel is too heavy to make quicker upshifts. Maybe next time, I will try the OEM clutch and a lighter solid flywheel.

 

I ordered the Valeo kit this morning on the recommendation of a well respected (to me) poster...

 

You're not missing anything by skipping the OS Giken. I have one on my car and I hate it. People that have driven the car hate it. When cold it's OK, but once warm it starts getting grabby & chatters like crazy. Once warmed up you can't slip at all when starting out so it makes stoplight to stoplight traffic a pain. Freeway rush hour is a nightmare. Flywheel is too light & friction material too grabby, and their geometry and engagement point makes it quick on/off. The OS Giken is a pretty looking waste of money.

 

Can't recommend that setup enough.

 

Just get a Luk kit and be done with it.

and

I have not heard of the Valeo kits being bad, so if you did a poor job of bleeding it then any clutch kit you put in will likely fail. If you did the maintenance job, you might want to find someone that can bleed it that knows how to do it rather than possibly trash another clutch.

 

Not too light or you'll hate it!! From experience. Had a light weight Comp Clutch and between that and the RMW race cam I burnt thru the clutch in a year, even trying to start up easy. You need at least 16 lb flywheel. I think stock is 39lb. Correct me if I'm wrong.