Drivetrain spark plug torque
>>What... no one has any input as to what torque for spark plugs with anti-seize?
Well maybe not. Found this:
SAF-T-EZE® Anti-Seize compounds provide maximum bolt tension from minimum wrench torque. In fact, at least 20% less torque is required to get the prescribed tension than to get the prescribed tension than with dry parts. With either Regular, Copper or Nickel Anti-Seize, you get uniform bolt tension and substantial release torque time after time that must be overcome for parts to be disassembled.
And this from a 1991 Lotus Club newsletter:
However, since torque settings generally assume dry threads, the settings must be adjusted lower whenever antiseize compound, oil, etc., is used. My rule of thumb is 65% of the maximum when using antiseize compound. This may sound scary, so let me explain torque settings.
And this on spark plugs from a BMW motorcycle "expert":
There are probably two reasons to NOT use anti-seize compounds:
(1) Some experienced mechanics feel that it is then easy to overtorque and pull threads.....my answer is that one should be using a torque wrench, lowering the official torque (which is usually for use withOUT antiseize compound).
(2) Since the use of popular antiseize compounds acts like a lubricant, the applied torque MUST be reduced...about a 1/3 reduction is roughly correct. SOME manufacturer's are concerned.......with HEAT conduction....probably feeling that the heat range of the spark plug is changed by the use of the compound. I have NOT seen this in real life situations. I have always used some sort of antiseize compound on my own spark plugs...and I have close to 530,000 miles on airheads. I've NEVER 'pulled' spark plug threads out of a cylinder head.
FYI, if you INSIST on NO antiseize:
14 mm, 1/2", 12-14 ftlbs, DRY
14 mm, 3/4", 16-18 ftlbs, DRY
12 mm, 1/2", 10-12 ftlbs, DRY
OFFICIAL BMW Service Information sheet on the late airheads: 18.4 ftlbs (3/4 reach). You will not find ME using that overly high value, dry threads or not!!
Any more experts out there?
Well maybe not. Found this:
SAF-T-EZE® Anti-Seize compounds provide maximum bolt tension from minimum wrench torque. In fact, at least 20% less torque is required to get the prescribed tension than to get the prescribed tension than with dry parts. With either Regular, Copper or Nickel Anti-Seize, you get uniform bolt tension and substantial release torque time after time that must be overcome for parts to be disassembled.
And this from a 1991 Lotus Club newsletter:
However, since torque settings generally assume dry threads, the settings must be adjusted lower whenever antiseize compound, oil, etc., is used. My rule of thumb is 65% of the maximum when using antiseize compound. This may sound scary, so let me explain torque settings.
And this on spark plugs from a BMW motorcycle "expert":
There are probably two reasons to NOT use anti-seize compounds:
(1) Some experienced mechanics feel that it is then easy to overtorque and pull threads.....my answer is that one should be using a torque wrench, lowering the official torque (which is usually for use withOUT antiseize compound).
(2) Since the use of popular antiseize compounds acts like a lubricant, the applied torque MUST be reduced...about a 1/3 reduction is roughly correct. SOME manufacturer's are concerned.......with HEAT conduction....probably feeling that the heat range of the spark plug is changed by the use of the compound. I have NOT seen this in real life situations. I have always used some sort of antiseize compound on my own spark plugs...and I have close to 530,000 miles on airheads. I've NEVER 'pulled' spark plug threads out of a cylinder head.
FYI, if you INSIST on NO antiseize:
14 mm, 1/2", 12-14 ftlbs, DRY
14 mm, 3/4", 16-18 ftlbs, DRY
12 mm, 1/2", 10-12 ftlbs, DRY
OFFICIAL BMW Service Information sheet on the late airheads: 18.4 ftlbs (3/4 reach). You will not find ME using that overly high value, dry threads or not!!
Any more experts out there?
Casey,
Good collection of material. I was looking for an answer to this question months ago, and never found any kind of consensus on how much to reduce the dry-thread number by.
I ended up doing something like 70% of the 21 lbs-ft value when I put in some Densos.
Here's a couple of references:
Denso specs
Sparkplugs.com specs
On the second link find the question about torque in the FAQ.
Jeff
Good collection of material. I was looking for an answer to this question months ago, and never found any kind of consensus on how much to reduce the dry-thread number by.
I ended up doing something like 70% of the 21 lbs-ft value when I put in some Densos.
Here's a couple of references:
Denso specs
Sparkplugs.com specs
On the second link find the question about torque in the FAQ.
Jeff
Okay, the more I read on the correct torque the less I understand.
(A) Denso's website has the IK22 (14mm thread size with taper seat) recommended torques without lub at:
Cast Iron or Aluminum Heads at 7 to 15 ft-lbs or without a torque wrench of finger tight plus 1/16th of a turn. Caution: Tightening tto much may cause distortion of the plug housing, and in extreme cases could cause engine damage.
(http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.htm)
(B) I've torqued to the 21 ft-lbs (cold and without lub) per Randy's recommendations for my IK22s. ???
Now the question is A or B? Or none of the above?
If it's critical to obtain proper thread pre-load to prevent loosening, then it's critical to have the correct torque requirement.
Thanks,
SMKKVK
(A) Denso's website has the IK22 (14mm thread size with taper seat) recommended torques without lub at:
Cast Iron or Aluminum Heads at 7 to 15 ft-lbs or without a torque wrench of finger tight plus 1/16th of a turn. Caution: Tightening tto much may cause distortion of the plug housing, and in extreme cases could cause engine damage.
(http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.htm)
(B) I've torqued to the 21 ft-lbs (cold and without lub) per Randy's recommendations for my IK22s. ???
Now the question is A or B? Or none of the above?
If it's critical to obtain proper thread pre-load to prevent loosening, then it's critical to have the correct torque requirement.
Thanks,
SMKKVK
I believe you made a slight error, as the MINI plugs are flat seat and not tapered.
The denso chart shows 15-22 lbs. for the 14mm flat seat plugs.
The denso chart shows 15-22 lbs. for the 14mm flat seat plugs.
>>I believe you made a slight error, as the MINI plugs are flat seat and not tapered.
>>
>>The denso chart shows 15-22 lbs. for the 14mm flat seat plugs.
-----------
Yucca Patrol,
Thanks for the clarification as I mis-read the chart at http://www.densoiridium.com/identifyplugs.htm
SMKKVK
>>
>>The denso chart shows 15-22 lbs. for the 14mm flat seat plugs.
-----------
Yucca Patrol,
Thanks for the clarification as I mis-read the chart at http://www.densoiridium.com/identifyplugs.htm
SMKKVK
All,
This weekend I checked the spark plug torque on my daughters November 2002 build MCS. The spark plugs have not been touched since the car was originally manufactured. She has 15,000 miles on it. All the plugs were correctly torqued at the specified 21 ft-lbs. Good news.
I think that any problems with loose plugs is probably an issue with the installation and likely not a problem with the heads or the spark plugs. I will be much more careful to properly torque my spark plugs in the future.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
This weekend I checked the spark plug torque on my daughters November 2002 build MCS. The spark plugs have not been touched since the car was originally manufactured. She has 15,000 miles on it. All the plugs were correctly torqued at the specified 21 ft-lbs. Good news.
I think that any problems with loose plugs is probably an issue with the installation and likely not a problem with the heads or the spark plugs. I will be much more careful to properly torque my spark plugs in the future.
Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle
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