Yea I'm kinda worried the valves are bent, however I don't think my small arms will bend a valve with feeling ANYTHING. And I rotated the engine with out anywierd forces

 

Yea just talked to the mech and he will pull valve cover and run a full compression test and let me know what he sees

 

I had a similar problem (car would not start) after I installed a camshaft late last year. If you don't use the factory cam sprocket locking tool, it is very easy for the sprocket to rotate on the camshaft when initially tightening the cam bolt. If this happens, the alignment dowel could "push in" and fail to align the camshaft and sprocket. The only way to determine if this has happened is to remove the valve cover and check if the dowel is protruding out of the camshaft on the valvetrain side. If installed properly, the dowel will occupy the hole in the sprocket and you will not see it at all.

Also, if you have zero compression, it generally means your valve(s) are open during the compression stroke, not closed.

Have you tried testing for spark? Not sure I saw that addressed in the thread.

-Mike

 

if i pay shipping will you give me the car for free since you don't give "2 F____s?"

 

Well it's at the shop now, mech ran compression test sure enough zero compression
Also looking at ordering a head

 

Since te valves are open while this is happening, that means there is a 100% percent chance my valves are bent?

 

Correct me if i am wrong, but the timing must be set BEFORE a compression check can be done.
If i am right....then i would quickly move the car to a shop that knows motors....
You have no compression with the timing messed up cause they do no match the piston stroke.

 

I could fly down to Florida tonight, and give you $20.00 for the car if you want.

 

Understood, but wouldn't that mean the valves are ruined regardless??
Also the shop soecializes in MINI and Volvo

 

Hah.

 

I'm guessing you're in Orlando then :P That sounds like Maitland Imports. Hope everything turns out alright

 

Nah
Techmaster in Fort Walton Beach

 

Reapairing a car and doing true engine work...is very different. How often does a mechanic who is usually swapping parts digging deep enough into a motor to swap a cam, or reset the timing? Not often...you need s shop that has built a motor or two...not just swapped parts.
depending on how bad/off the timing is, one valve might be bent, they all might be trashed,or they allmight be fine.
the important thing is that you explained to tge shop EXACTLY what you did....that is a botched cam seap...so they can work backwards, and redo it, fixing any issues, then time it....then see if it runs, then do a compression check if needed....
This tale of woe is exactly why i do the basic myself, but pay a few $$ to a guy with tools snd experance....i bet i could do 90% of the stuff, when it goes right, but not sure i can make it work ejen the plan fails...and in auto repair, when does all go 100% right? What you have is called a basketcase
a botched diy....be prepared to spend a few $$, but when done, you will say wow!!

 

Go have a 12 pack, and wait for the phone call!! Crap happens, but better with stuff than people, so just cross you fingers!!

 

Yea I'm already looking at used cylinder heads and/or ways to write the car off as total loss
As for the shop I think it would be better to cut straight to the chase, grab a bore sight and tell me if my valves/pistons are bent.
If its the ruined head, I'll look into grabbing that used one on CL
If the entire motor is ruined, I will declare total loss and

 

i know some people try to do the work themselves to save some coin...but lets be honest...when you start messing with the internals of an engine...unless you have done this on a modern car....just take it to someone that knows what they are doing...will it cost..yes...but the fact is the work is done by a pro and if something is messed up you can take yourself out of the equation and take it back to the shop or take it up with the manufactor of the parts...when it came time for me to get a cam i chose the best of what was out there and i had it installed professionally and the end result was 70k miles later its still running like a champ...there just comes a point where you have to swallow your pride...admit you dont have the skills to tackle this in a safe and thorough manner and turn to a professional...plus if this is something you plan to do alot (i change alot of my own belts and so on)...invest in the specialized tools MINI uses...are they expensive? sure...but they save alot of heartache and money in the long run

 

Be sure to run the $$ first....you might be surprised. Spending $1500-2000 to have a running car to sell usually gets you lots more than a nonrunner...
why would anybody think the motor is a gonner?!
At worst, you need s head...the engine was never run, just tried to start...so maybe a used head (rememner the extra $$ for a core if you want a upgraded head....but you end up with a new headgasket, a good thing on a 8+ year old car with performance mods....

 

Well if I don't have to sell, then I wont sell it.. I reaaaaally enjoyed this car and really don't wanna see it go
Dustin at Autoxcooper says there is chance IF there was contact the pistons may have cracked

 

There is a chance you made a cold fusion reactor out of you mini motor too....but not thinking it happened...think good thoughts, and remember, the valves are pretty weak...so compared to a forged piston ....i'm betting on the piston.

 

i agree with zippnh.
don't let assumption by others corrupts your decision making.
have a beer and an A$$ and hope to clear your mind. take things one at a time.

PISTON CRACKED?????? plsssss.

 

We are all allowed to guess since we are at a keyboard miles away. The guy with the car isn't allowed to guess.

 

I know right?!
I'll just assume the worst and hope for the best
Nothin else I can do

 

If the timing is off, a compression test doesn't necessarily tell you much. Zero compression doesn't mean the valves are bent. It could simply be they are opening too early.

My advice would be to pull the timing cover, re-time the engine, and then check compression once timing is verified. Alternatively, you could pull the head and check the valves, but that seems like more work. Besides, if the valves look good you'll need to re-time regardless.

I had the timing pretty far off on my R53 and did not bend any valves. I have heard R50's are less forgiving due to higher compression ratio.

 

From what I can see the mech. just checked the compression to varify what you were telling him, so no biggie, and yes there is no reason to speculate ANYTHING without the motor being re-timed, then you'll know, everthing else is just filler.

 

Thanks for the good laugh!

Back on topic...

At this stage, I wouldn't worry too much. Re-timing the engine might solve everything. Good luck!