Drivetrain Upgraded cam, now car will not start at all
Looks like you were at this all night, and this kind of stuff nothing but sucks, the only thing you can do is, do your very best to get the timing lined up & put the stock cam back in, get everything running properly, and start over, from scratch. Sorry to say.
When we did my 1st cam we had compression issues due to the ecu not liking the cam & overfueling the cylinders, but never 0 in all, so yes I think you may have let the gear positioning get out of place.
Once you start from scratch.
-Place Cam tool & loosen bolt
-Remove tool, zip tie the chain to the cam in 2 places
-Pull the tensioner
-get a bunjie cord to hold the tension of the chain, attach it to the hood, pull the bolt & while keeping tension on the chain attach the other end to the gear. This will keep the tension & hold the gear out of the way at the same time.
-everything should then stay in place while you change the cam again.
**Make sure when replacing the old cam & reinstalling the new that not only do you have the cam caps in the correct order & that all of the lifter caps are in place, lifter caps can come off even right before you tighten the rocker rails just from the plastic cap holders heat cracking & becoming brittle.**
When we did my 1st cam we had compression issues due to the ecu not liking the cam & overfueling the cylinders, but never 0 in all, so yes I think you may have let the gear positioning get out of place.
Once you start from scratch.
-Place Cam tool & loosen bolt
-Remove tool, zip tie the chain to the cam in 2 places
-Pull the tensioner
-get a bunjie cord to hold the tension of the chain, attach it to the hood, pull the bolt & while keeping tension on the chain attach the other end to the gear. This will keep the tension & hold the gear out of the way at the same time.
-everything should then stay in place while you change the cam again.
**Make sure when replacing the old cam & reinstalling the new that not only do you have the cam caps in the correct order & that all of the lifter caps are in place, lifter caps can come off even right before you tighten the rocker rails just from the plastic cap holders heat cracking & becoming brittle.**
Turns out I got a call from autox and guy says there is a good chance the bottom sprocket came undone if we didn't apply pressure.. I'm trying to contact my buddies to see if thats what they did when they broke the bolt loose.. (I held the crank while they broke the nut loose)
If so we will have to pull the whole timing cover off.. I really dont wanna do that but I'm thinking we might end up doing that anyway
Firs thing I want to do is really do a thorough check of the sensors first since my instincts tell me it's that sensor... Like I said I don't think valves are bent since there was never any pinging or the fact that the car never started
If so we will have to pull the whole timing cover off.. I really dont wanna do that but I'm thinking we might end up doing that anyway
Firs thing I want to do is really do a thorough check of the sensors first since my instincts tell me it's that sensor... Like I said I don't think valves are bent since there was never any pinging or the fact that the car never started
Yea I turned the engine by hand several times (about 25 minutes) just to make sure nothing was contacting. Also the shop owner told me if the valves were bent it would make compression and it's not
All great advices and its just a matter of doing the easy steps to the more labor intense until it starts right. I would still undo everything you guys did n start from there if anything outside the cam swap has been checked.
Bent valves make 0 or very close to 0 compression. Piston engines won't run below 90psi of compression.
I totally agree with miles_miles7 you need to go back to start and retime the crank and cam with the timing covers off to make sure you have it right.
I totally agree with miles_miles7 you need to go back to start and retime the crank and cam with the timing covers off to make sure you have it right.
If you get this straightened out & end up replacing the cam in one way or the other, GET THE CAM TOOL, you can rent it from some mini shops. Not using it may have caused your problems in the first place.
Update
Dropped car off at shop, next to another broken R53, he will let me know what happens, although at this point I really don't give 2 f*cks about that car or whats wrong with it.
I'm done.
Dropped car off at shop, next to another broken R53, he will let me know what happens, although at this point I really don't give 2 f*cks about that car or whats wrong with it.
I'm done.
i had the same problem in december when i put my rmw cam in.
the chain skipped some teeth on the crank sprocket and wouldn't run.
the only way to get it back timed right was to pull the timing cover. a big pain, but it gave me a chance to replace the gasket, upgraded the crank damper, the chain guides, tensioner, etc.
the chain skipped some teeth on the crank sprocket and wouldn't run.
the only way to get it back timed right was to pull the timing cover. a big pain, but it gave me a chance to replace the gasket, upgraded the crank damper, the chain guides, tensioner, etc.
i did turn it by hand, which is the reason the chain jumped teeth... :-/
with the cam installed correctly, the car runs awesome, idles awesome and has zero performance issues for the last 8,000 miles that it's been installed. vacuum and boost is great and right in line with what it should be.
i was worried at the time that valves were bent, reading through threads on forums like you've been doing trying to figure out if it could be, but i ended up not having any problems :-)
with the cam installed correctly, the car runs awesome, idles awesome and has zero performance issues for the last 8,000 miles that it's been installed. vacuum and boost is great and right in line with what it should be.
i was worried at the time that valves were bent, reading through threads on forums like you've been doing trying to figure out if it could be, but i ended up not having any problems :-)


