Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Cam timing question

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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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SkylerO7
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Cam timing question

So, I'm getting a new cam for my car (along with a few other things) since the engine is out and easy to work with. The question I have is: what is the recommendation for a timing tool? Are people using one? Is there a site that rents them? I don't want to spend $125 to get a new one, but I also don't want to grenade my engine by not using one.

Any advice would rock!
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 12:20 PM
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Anyone have some suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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The only MINI-specific cam tool I know of is # 11 8 250. It's just a fixture that keeps the cam from turning when you loosen or tighten the cam bolt. Besides the dealer tool, I think Baum makes a good one & you can also get them from specialty tools vendors like ZDmak & Samstag. I got one off EBay made by JTC it's a cheap copy that needed some grinding to fit properly.

also see post#7 in this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...1-8-250-a.html

If you are degreeing the cam, the Skunk2 website has a pretty good tutorial using the ICL method.
 

Last edited by GordonP66; Oct 4, 2011 at 12:44 PM. Reason: added link
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:00 AM
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When installing my cam I didnt even bother with the cam sprocket locking tool. I unbolted the rocker rails, the cam sproket and removed the cam leaving the sprocket sitting on the chain guides. After installing the new cam I unbolted the chain tensioner a little at a time until I could slide the cam sprocket on the end of the cam. This prevents the chain from falling off the crank sproket and ruining base timing. Bolted it all together and torqued the rails to 22 ft-lbs, sprocket bolt to 46 ft-lbs, and valve cover to 9 ft-lbs.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Torque values

Originally Posted by K20K1LLA
When installing my cam I didnt even bother with the cam sprocket locking tool. I unbolted the rocker rails, the cam sproket and removed the cam leaving the sprocket sitting on the chain guides. After installing the new cam I unbolted the chain tensioner a little at a time until I could slide the cam sprocket on the end of the cam. This prevents the chain from falling off the crank sproket and ruining base timing. Bolted it all together and torqued the rails to 22 ft-lbs, sprocket bolt to 46 ft-lbs, and valve cover to 9 ft-lbs.
46 ft/lb for the chain tensioner & 75 ft/lb for the cam sprocket bolt!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Gordon, I sent you a PM--you should check it out!
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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The price for the factory tool appears to have gone way up. I used to loan tools but I got burned one too many times.. If you're willing to install the cam with the motor in the car, It's easy to do without the factory tool. There's an excellent step by step write up that can be accessed on the Werkin Mini & Fes-Auto sites. Make sure the rocker rails are gradually torqued down using the recommeded sequence. It's possible to break a cam if this isn't done.

Although Bentley doesn't mention it, the cam sprocket bolt # 07137510732 should probably be replaced. Werkin Mini found the bolt does stretch & its only $8-9 dollars. Cheap insurance. Also, there is some slop in the cam gear worth about 1 degree of timing. Make sure the cam dowel pin is firmly up against the right side of the cam gear slot when you torque the cam bolt down to 75 ft/lb. That's right side when viewing the cam gear from the passenger side of the car(USA cars).
 
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