Drivetrain NGK BKR6EIX #6418 Gap Question for MCS
NGK BKR6EIX #6418 Gap Question for MCS
Hey Guys,
Anyone know the proper gap for a MCS when you run BKR6EIX iridium plugs? I've been looking around NAM for a while and found everything from ".45 is what it comes with and that's what you should run" to ".30 is what it comes with and that's what you should run". I checked all 4 and it looks like they are all .30 (except one is .31 which will soon be remedied). Anywho, any help here would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
Anyone know the proper gap for a MCS when you run BKR6EIX iridium plugs? I've been looking around NAM for a while and found everything from ".45 is what it comes with and that's what you should run" to ".30 is what it comes with and that's what you should run". I checked all 4 and it looks like they are all .30 (except one is .31 which will soon be remedied). Anywho, any help here would be greatly appreciated
Thanks!
So I installed them at .30 and it runs great. I'm pretty sure the plugs have never been changed in the car (85k) so hopefully this will help 
. A few words about these plugs:
- Check the Gap to insure they are all the same (as said before one was .31 not .30 out of the box). The more consistant they are the better the car will run.
- When adjusting the gap do not use a round style gap tool. Use a wire gapping gauge (or feeler style gapping tool) with a electrode adjuster. This will enable you to adjust the gap without touching the iridium tips. The iridium tips are very hard but also very small and they can break off if you put much pressure them.
- Don't forget the anti-seize and boot grease. A couple of my old plugs were practically welded in. If you don't install with anti-seize it's a pretty good chance they'll be stuck next time you try to get them out.
- Do this while the engine is cold. 1. so you don't burn yourself and 2. Because you can get the torque specs more accurate (20 lbs/ft).
- Start threading the new plugs in by hand to avoid cross threading.
Well I hope this helps someone else with a R53 looking to change plugs. In heinsight I might have opted for the stock BKR6EQUP but I guess it's nice to have options.
. A few words about these plugs:- Check the Gap to insure they are all the same (as said before one was .31 not .30 out of the box). The more consistant they are the better the car will run.
- When adjusting the gap do not use a round style gap tool. Use a wire gapping gauge (or feeler style gapping tool) with a electrode adjuster. This will enable you to adjust the gap without touching the iridium tips. The iridium tips are very hard but also very small and they can break off if you put much pressure them.
- Don't forget the anti-seize and boot grease. A couple of my old plugs were practically welded in. If you don't install with anti-seize it's a pretty good chance they'll be stuck next time you try to get them out.
- Do this while the engine is cold. 1. so you don't burn yourself and 2. Because you can get the torque specs more accurate (20 lbs/ft).
- Start threading the new plugs in by hand to avoid cross threading.
Well I hope this helps someone else with a R53 looking to change plugs. In heinsight I might have opted for the stock BKR6EQUP but I guess it's nice to have options.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2009
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So I installed them at .30 and it runs great. I'm pretty sure the plugs have never been changed in the car (85k) so hopefully this will help . A few words about these plugs:
- Check the Gap to insure they are all the same (as said before one was .31 not .30 out of the box). The more consistant they are the better the car will run.
- When adjusting the gap do not use a round style gap tool. Use a wire gapping gauge (or feeler style gapping tool) with a electrode adjuster. This will enable you to adjust the gap without touching the iridium tips. The iridium tips are very hard but also very small and they can break off if you put much pressure them.
- Don't forget the anti-seize and boot grease. A couple of my old plugs were practically welded in. If you don't install with anti-seize it's a pretty good chance they'll be stuck next time you try to get them out.
- Do this while the engine is cold. 1. so you don't burn yourself and 2. Because you can get the torque specs more accurate (20 lbs/ft).
- Start threading the new plugs in by hand to avoid cross threading.
Well I hope this helps someone else with a R53 looking to change plugs. In heinsight I might have opted for the stock BKR6EQUP but I guess it's nice to have options.
. A few words about these plugs:- Check the Gap to insure they are all the same (as said before one was .31 not .30 out of the box). The more consistant they are the better the car will run.
- When adjusting the gap do not use a round style gap tool. Use a wire gapping gauge (or feeler style gapping tool) with a electrode adjuster. This will enable you to adjust the gap without touching the iridium tips. The iridium tips are very hard but also very small and they can break off if you put much pressure them.
- Don't forget the anti-seize and boot grease. A couple of my old plugs were practically welded in. If you don't install with anti-seize it's a pretty good chance they'll be stuck next time you try to get them out.
- Do this while the engine is cold. 1. so you don't burn yourself and 2. Because you can get the torque specs more accurate (20 lbs/ft).
- Start threading the new plugs in by hand to avoid cross threading.
Well I hope this helps someone else with a R53 looking to change plugs. In heinsight I might have opted for the stock BKR6EQUP but I guess it's nice to have options.
I know it's an old post. I used it as a quick reference to make sure parts were good to go.
Excellent extra info. Thanks for posting it up!
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