Diamon had the Brakeman Brake system, I remember the pic. Don't know if they still sell them, or have pictures. I am not too sure how they work. I think a mod like this is for the people that spend $1200 a wheel for custom HRE wheels. Yeah it is expensive, but to some people it is worth it. If I had the money, I would pay for the best...

 

Think of all the weight you could save if you just took ALL the braking hardware off the car!!!

 

No brakes like......




_________________
-goin440 IB/IB MC

 

>> I have 16" Volks on my MCS. I researched much a few months ago when I got them, and the lightest they offered was the CE28Ns. They weigh-in at 10.75lbs. Their 37 series wheels are just over 11lbs. Either way, I did not find anything lighter, domestically or abroad... in 16's.

Pictures please!

 

It took me a bit to track this down, but this thread has a couple shots. I will post much better photos when I finally lower her with some coilovers (saving for Ledas). I'm not exactly fond of the wheel gap at this time

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...560#post500560

_________________
2003 IB MCS

 

I will have to check out that TMM discount and join up.

Thanks for the info

 

>>I have 16" Volks on my MCS. I researched much a few months ago when I got them, and the lightest they offered was the CE28Ns. They weigh-in at 10.75lbs. Their 37 series wheels are just over 11lbs. Either way, I did not find anything lighter, domestically or abroad... in 16's.

Volk TE37 Forged 15x6 8.2 pounds
Volk TE37 Forged 15x6.5 8.8 pounds

 

I contemplated 15s, but only for a very short time. I find the size of 16's just barely acceptable, aesthetically speaking. And while 15's are about 2 lbs less then a comparable 16 (thanks for the info), one also then is going to "need" more tire (profile) which will add, in many cases a pound, if not more. Tire weight is more impacting, pound for pound, than wheel weight, so it ends-up becoming a wash...

Ok, we've taken this slightly off course. I apolgize Peter

 

Most 15" tires do not weigh more than 16" tires...

Dunlop Sport 9000 weights for example:
205/55/15 - 19.6 lbs
205/50/16 - 20.5 lbs

Toyo T1S weights:
205/55/15 - 18.3 lbs
205/50/16 - 19.4 lbs
http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_specsheet.cfm?id=2

 

Yea they look goofy but are track wheels only. :smile:

 

You found some good examples there Dreamin. I guess that is one of the reasons I put "need" in quotes. If everything else is kept equal, like same tire (make/model), rolling diameter, and width, then in order to make-up for the smaller wheel, more rubber will be needed, increasing weight over the other one on the larger wheel. Unless I'm missing something, I believe that to be correct, and recall seeing examples, thus my statement above.

But if one is willing to decrease the rolling diameter and/or width, then a decrease in weight can be had, and that is how those two examples lose weight (overall diameter). That is fine with me, and I acutally sought that, and did so with my set-up which some feel to be a bit extreme. If all were kept equal, the tire would be heavier, and that was what I was tyring to say, w/o elaborating. Since most would be going to 15's for performance reasons (I would think), a drecrease in overall size is probably just fine, and tire weight-savings are also had on top of wheel weight then...

Another consideration, since we are continuing on here, is braking... a nice segue back into this thread Assuming of course the same make/model...

Back to work!

 

TonyB -- Great decision to use 16 inch wheel/tire combo using Volks. You thought out all the options and made your decision, using upgraded brake availability as one of your criteria. Hey, now we're back to brakes!

Peter -- Wow! (I really should say Wow Again!). You're really on a roll. I go on a business trip for the week and when I get back, look what has happened. Outstanding product. I can't wait to check out your website with all your goodies, and to see your future goodies, too. I know where I'll be spending my money. As a MINI owner -- THANKS. I've got to do a few things first, i.e., tire/wheel package next year.

Someone mentioned the MINi is just a $20,000 car. Although I just got the CVT MC, I gave the dealer over $29,000 including tax and license and lowjack with all the options I wanted and I did not pay any extra dealer markup. So, we must keep all things in perspective.

 

TonyB -- Theoritically, you are right, but the data does not support it. And I cannot explain why.

I didn't pick an artificially small sized 15" tire to prove myself right.
205/55/15 -- Diameter: 23.9" -- Width 8.3"
205/50/16 -- Diameter: 24.1" -- Width 8.3"

These are both the closest sizes to stock and reasonable choices to run. Same width and diameters less than 0.8% diff. but the weight is over 5% diff the "wrong way" ?!?

I guess my point was that if weight savings is your ultimate goal, 15s are the way to go, the wheels are lighter than 16s and the logical choice of tire sizes in 15s are lighter than 16s.

 

No arguing with you there! I understand what you are saying, and agree.

If weight savings is the ultimate, and only goal here, then smaller is indeed better. The reality seems to be that there are several factors involved for most of us, and they are not always equally important. The goal or objective I believe for all in this weight pre-occupation is an increase in performance, for which they are several criteria, and ways to improve on it, weight loss being one. And along the way there are fine balances, and points of diminishing returns. A still smaller rolling diameter, while making the car even more lively down low, starts to negatively impact top speed...

As far as those numbers go, I'm just too tired to pull-out the calculator now. Maybe a x-post in the Wheels/Tires forum could have TireRack guru address that fairly easily. A good discussion, but OT for this thread though. A good weekend to you!

 

How do these brakes compare to the Porsche ceramic brakes? Are they the same? From this forum:
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...threadid=87404

There appears to be some false advertising on Porsche's end about the life and wear of their ceramic brake pads. Failing after 1500 miles?!

 

They certainly look terrific. :smile:

From a laymens point of view they seem...pricey ?????

Peace,
D


_________________
PM d-mini-ero

 

What's the scenario if M7 no longer exists:
Are replacement seals, rotors, pads, etc. readily sourced from other vendors?

 

>>What's the scenario if M7 no longer exists: <<

Don't worry I'm here for the long run.....
But to answer your question, all seals, pads etc, are readily available in case..............

peter horvath
562-712-3270

 

I'm looking forward to your testing data (you're still planning to do some testing, right?). Looks like a very nicely made product.

 

Very nice looking product. I await your numbers as well.
Carl

 

The brakes will be thoroughly tested and I will give impressions and "Raw Data" for all the nerds

And for all of you who is going to Vegas I will have the brakes on the car, test rides will be offered it will be fun.

Other products that you guy's can test will be:

Nitrous kit
Control arms (front)
Leda shocks

And much more.

peter horvath
562-712-3270

 

Holy Smokes

I came across the rotors looking at Peter's web site a week or so ago, but only just found this post that was started at the beginning of this year.

I didn't find any testing data. Has any been done?

Peter, without expecting you to give away state secrets, I'm going to formulate my question this way -- How many kits have you sold where the primary intended purpose was for the street? What were their comments? Are these noisery than steel rotors? Oh, and what about different caliper colors?

Also, why do Mini's not seem to need larger master cylinders when big brake kits are installed?

I've been wondering if an MCS could be modified to the point where it would out run a stock Boxster. With stuff like this available, sure looks like it!

I know I need to get my car first, but these are going to be high on the priority list -- they may kick you out of most auto-x classes, but they sure don't void your powertrain warranty.

 

Peter,

Ideas on the rear brake kit-
Keep the stock caliper (paint it black if you want it to match the front-add a M7 logo in white that is heat resistant)
Upgrade the brake pad in the rear so it provides more performance and heat tolerance- maybe Ferrodo DS2500 or Mintex M1144 or better.
Stainless steel brake lines for the rear
Stock size upgraded rotor with slots- similar to the front rotors or lightened some how but not drilled or dimpled (reduces the surface area of the rotor)

This would improve stopping power and match the fronts better than just stock components, lighten unsprung weight in the rear since the rotor is the heaviest part which is rotating.

The alternative is Alta has a rear brake kit and TCE is coming out with a rear brake kit. Folks lets not forget about matching any front upgrade with improvements to the rear brakes- it's all about balance.

 

Awesome setup Peter & Randy! I've been researching every aftermarket brake system currently on the market and your system is head-and-shoulders above the rest. I'm already saving my money, so set aside a system for me<g>. Keep up the great work!

 

you definitely something for the rears as well.

i do not liek mismatching different companies when it comes to brake kits....so M7 you need to throw a rear brake kit out there as well.

also i was wondering if this is just like the Porsch and ferrari Ceramic brake packages.

i know it has to be different....but one thing that i think would be just badass,.,...if this kit had the Fire Glowing Orange rotors....under hard braking?

either way you have my business M7....glad to see someone throwing out Top of the line products.