Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain car wont start??immoblizer

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Old May 9, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #1  
dawgincustoms's Avatar
dawgincustoms
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car wont start??immoblizer

Long story short put a thumper tpr-2 head on with port matched intake manifold, ati crank pulley and new gaskets on the top side and crank sensor o-ring. Car turns but wont start. Throws a p2301 and p2304 code. There is no spark but power to the middle connector for the coil. Went over everything and even put a new coil on the car. swapped all relays and fuses and same thing. I think that it is the security (immoblizer) or dme (long shot). Car is a 2004 mini cooper s. I am a lil ways from a dealer and dont really have the time to trailer it to the dealer just to see if the immoblizer is engauged.

Is there a way to tell if it is?
Is there a way to disengause the immoblizer witout going to the dealer?
Far shot but would a push start bypass the immoblizer and get it running??
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 07:35 AM
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From: Inman, SC
if there is no power to a spark plug a push start probably would not help that as you would just end up flooding that piston.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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Sorry to say mate but I think your ECU is cooked. I had the exact same codes on my car when this happened. Mine was caused from a plasma booster. Once we took the ECU out you could smell it and see where it had burned out on the Ignition side. I could be wrong but I am 99% certain that this is your problem.

P2301 Ignition Coil "A" Primary Control Circuit High

P2304 Ignition Coil "B" Primary Control Circuit High

The High means High resistance, which means bad connection or no connection.
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 04:20 PM
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I just saw you have no spark...disregard. Unplug your battery for the night......and then hook it back up the next day and try it. It will bleed off all the residual voltage by then and may reset your problems.....
 
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Old May 10, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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UKSUV
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All EWS does is interrupt power from the ignition switch to the starter....it has nothing to do with no spark....
 
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Old May 17, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by UKSUV
All EWS does is interrupt power from the ignition switch to the starter....it has nothing to do with no spark....
I don't believe this. If that were all EWS did you could push start the car still.

I bet EWS cuts starter signal, spark and fuel injector pulse.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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From: Marsala, Sicily
Originally Posted by firehawk618
I don't believe this. If that were all EWS did you could push start the car still.

I bet EWS cuts starter signal, spark and fuel injector pulse.
I had a starter problem and the EWS wouldnt allow voltage to go to the starter. I had spark and injector pulse and was able to bypass the EWS with a remote start switch. If the EWS was cutting the start signal it would cut all others....
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Either way it was the DME causing the issues. Put in a new DME and everything is running.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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I'd check the crank postion sensor....you moved it to change the o-ring...
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
I'd check the crank postion sensor....you moved it to change the o-ring...
Again, it was the DME.
 
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Old May 21, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor
Again, it was the DME.
In YOUR case....but the OP has not chimed back in...
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
In YOUR case....but the OP has not chimed back in...
Apparently you are missing the story here. I put a new DME in the OPs car and everything is now working as it should.
 
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Old May 22, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Every time i've seen the coil high resistance faults its been because of a faulty DME, was the car tuned when the big head was installed?
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 07:57 PM
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Sorry I have been a bit preoccupied. DME was the issue and PROFESSOR was the service tech who hooked me up. The screaming demon coil also too a crap. I have a feeling that when the spark plug shot out the head it grounded the coil and fried it and the ignition circuit in the dme. Car is running desent now. It really needs an exhaust and would beinfit from the bytronix tune instead of the jcw reflash. I guess Ill just pick that and the sprintex up here soon....lol...
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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So, dawgin and professor. You've got a big valve head and just running a JCW tune? Did you need enabling codes or anything to put the jcw reflash into the car with the isss?
 
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Old May 24, 2011 | 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 56rfixr
So, dawgin and professor. You've got a big valve head and just running a JCW tune? Did you need enabling codes or anything to put the jcw reflash into the car with the isss?
No codes needed.
 

Last edited by Professor; May 24, 2011 at 03:17 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Professor
Apparently you are missing the story here. I put a new DME in the OPs car and everything is now working as it should.
I'm glad that resolved the issue, I always like to chime in though and say, in cases like this CHECK YOUR FUSES!!!

I know that in my Mini, the 2-3 times I had starting problems, the fuse had blown. (later I discovered why it kept blowing)
 
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