Drivetrain Recirculation (DV/BOV) valve.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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Its actually an electronic solenoid which keeps the valve open or closed, the spring assists in the returning of the valve. If you remove the valve and blow on it you will see the punger can not make an air tight seal against the tapered seal ring. Take it out and test it. air doesnt travel through the holes, the holes are to remove air resistance during the action of opening and closing. You wont know their is a leak until you test it as by ecu if there is an internal leak the ecu will leave the waste gate closed to achieve target boost. The plunger does not make an air tight seal against the tapered ring becaue the ring isnt a true circle
I test it, and messure it, thats why I am telling you this, but it is OK, I don't want to start an argue here.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 44
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Its actually an electronic solenoid which keeps the valve open or closed, the spring assists in the returning of the valve. If you remove the valve and blow on it you will see the punger can not make an air tight seal against the tapered seal ring. Take it out and test it. air doesnt travel through the holes, the holes are to remove air resistance during the action of opening and closing. You wont know their is a leak until you test it as by ecu if there is an internal leak the ecu will leave the waste gate closed to achieve target boost. The plunger does not make an air tight seal against the tapered ring becaue the ring isnt a true circle, on top of the there is no rubber seal around the piston, it cannot be pressure tight. the plunger doesnt actually go in the bypass hole it sits against the hole lip. The factory valve has a tapered rubber seal which fits into a groove on the compressor housing.
, on top of the there is no rubber seal around the piston, it cannot be pressure tight. the plunger doesnt actually go in the bypass hole it sits against the hole lip. The factory valve has a tapered rubber seal which fits into a groove on the compressor housing."The plunger does not make an air tight seal against the tapered ring becaue the ring isnt a true circle"
Right!! that's were the mistake is, the plunger is the one that must seal to the bottom of the hole in the turbo, not the tapered ring, the 4 mm difference in between the plunger and the ring must be respected, not pushed.
There is no argument, i returned mine because or no air tight seal as i tried for about a week to get it to seal. That valve plastic ring would seal as the casting of the ring is not circular. I run 21psi and lost spool as it caused an internal link. Like i said before its not a bad mod. In my findings in no position of the piston travel would it seal.
If you look at the drawing i made (horrible i know) the leak isnt from the plunger, its is from the tapered pieace of plastic which is the ring. Even if you can get the plunger to seal, the leak is internal to the valve itself. I tested it this way:
Extend the plunger to its seated position simply blow on the plunger itself, the leak comes from the plastic ring which wraps around the plunger.
If you look at the drawing i made (horrible i know) the leak isnt from the plunger, its is from the tapered pieace of plastic which is the ring. Even if you can get the plunger to seal, the leak is internal to the valve itself. I tested it this way:
Extend the plunger to its seated position simply blow on the plunger itself, the leak comes from the plastic ring which wraps around the plunger.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 44
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There is no argument, i returned mine because or no air tight seal as i tried for about a week to get it to seal. That valve plastic ring would seal as the casting of the ring is not circular. I run 21psi and lost spool as it caused an internal link. Like i said before its not a bad mod. In my findings in no position of the piston travel would it seal.
If you blown air through the plunger in its relaxed position there is no leak, if you blown air with the plunger at the same level of the ring, there is a leak. At least is what happened when I tried.
That picture looks like a peugot207 gti engine bay, You are mis understanding me, you have to actually take the valve apart to see the tapered ring im referring to. The rubber diaphram is what makes the factory valve air tight(so pressure which passes through the vent holes in the plunger does not escape through the valve). VAG internally is not air tight.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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Understood. I will take apart the valve and see, may be you are right, and the VAG valve is not as air tight as the oem one in that part, so imagine how much more leak happens if the plunger doesn't seats the way it was designed, which is the way I find everybody install it.
Did you understand what I mean regarding the differences in height and the right way to install it ?
May be for a standard Borgwarner turbo 180-225 hp the oem valve works, but trust me I couldn't find a way to make it work well in my setup (270 bhp) and I find the VAG valve problem free
Luckily you guys dont have MAF's. Turbo swaps here are more work than they're worth. You will see what i mean with that plastic ring, if you take it apart you ll see how it aligns with the piston.
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
Last edited by Bigprfed22; Sep 28, 2012 at 01:45 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 44
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Luckily you guys dont have MAF's. Turbo swaps here are more work than they're worth. You will see what i mean with that plastic ring, if you take it apart you ll see how it aligns with the piston.
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
1st Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Luckily you guys dont have MAF's. Turbo swaps here are more work than they're worth. You will see what i mean with that plastic ring, if you take it apart you ll see how it aligns with the piston.
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
Yeah i know what you are saying but the part im talking about cant be air tight.
I have run 21psi with no issues what so ever. I have the oem jcw valve
BTW:
Fito Paez es uno de mis artistas favoritos
Now the problem I find is how to control pressure peaks. 23+psi.
I want to keep it between 18 and 22.
Some say a MBC can be installed (in parallel to the wastgate) some say it can´t, because our wastgate works with vacuum and not pressure, I don´t know..
Factory turbo wastegates do work off of vacuum, you could user a pressure actuated gate to a manual boost controller(since you have a mitsu turbo), but dont disconnect the wastegate vacuum solenoid, that way the ecu thinks it is still working. That might work.
I´m not finished tuning it, DV failure was a pain in the neck, now with the problems solved, may be next week i´ll finish it.
Now the problem I find is how to control pressure peaks. 23+psi.
I want to keep it between 18 and 22.
Some say a MBC can be installed (in parallel to the wastgate) some say it can´t, because our wastgate works with vacuum and not pressure, I don´t know..
Now the problem I find is how to control pressure peaks. 23+psi.
I want to keep it between 18 and 22.
Some say a MBC can be installed (in parallel to the wastgate) some say it can´t, because our wastgate works with vacuum and not pressure, I don´t know..
Last edited by Bigprfed22; Sep 28, 2012 at 03:49 PM.
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