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Drivetrain Help please: removing oil pressure switch

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Old 01-17-2004, 04:52 PM
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I'm trying to remove the oil pressure switch from the back of the engine to install an oil pressure gauge. The green switch by the exhaust manifold has one wire running to it. I can't figure out how to get the @$#! off. There is a red tab running laterally across the back that looks to be the key, but it doesn't want to budge and I'm afraid to force the issue since it is plastic. There is also a green push tab by the rear of the switch. I need to get the switch off so I can gain access to the nut that will remove the rest of the switch from the engine. Does anyone have experience with removing this part, or any suggestions on how to proceed?

Thanks!
Mark
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 05:08 PM
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From the way you've described it, it sounds like it's a common locking connector. You'll need to take a small screwdriver and gently pry the red piece back. Not remove it totally, but it will back out around 5-6mm before stopping. Once you've done that, the green push tab will release the plug from the sending unit.
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 08:05 PM
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Thanks, I'll try that. But it looks like the red piece will come completely off, there aren't any prongs extending down into the connector that I can see. Off course I'm having to use a mirror to see anything - the little bugger's not in a real convenient place!
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 08:23 PM
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CM, I did this a few weeks back, and nothing comes off the connector. I THINK that tab simply needs to get slid, and then it comes off. I've had so many projects, I sort of forgot the details though...

I do recall spending a few minutes on this myself, as it took a little pressure to free it, and I was a bit apprehensive about doing so. I hope that helps.

And while you might not want to hear it, I had more issues with that large nut for the factory sending unit (oil pressure warning light). I was told that it required a 27mm 12pt socket. That did not grab, even after making sure that I was squarely on it, which mandated the cutting/snipping of some hard shielding. A deep socket is needed to get over the sender, but not too deep... but again, it didn't work anyway, at least on mine, and it was not stripped. I ended up using vice grips from above.

Best of luck.

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Old 01-18-2004, 04:00 PM
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Tony, you were right on both counts:
The red tab slides across and then you can push a green tab to pull the top of the switch off.
I had one socket that would go on, but not enough clearance to use any of my ratchets, even with assorted adaptors. So, I resorted to the vise grip method also: but I had to go buy a shorter one then what I had to fit in there.
It was surprising how much oil came out when I pulled the switch off, I though it would be above the oil level. I lost about 1/2 quart before I got the new fitting put on.
Thanks, again.
 
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Old 01-18-2004, 06:12 PM
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Good to hear Mark, well not on losing some oil though! Heck, I would have shared that with you, but I didn't experience that... Maybe you had it jacked at a certain angle that made for that to happen. It too thought you were right about that spot being above the oil level, and actually I was told for that reason it was not the most ideal location to get oil temp readings. Strange...

If you can, share a photo or two of your gauges!

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Old 01-18-2004, 07:29 PM
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Mark,

Will the factory sender for the idiot light still operate (piggyback) once you have the gauge in place? If so please let me know who makes it.

I like the idea of having an actual gauge, but not mounted on the oil filter housing. That's a pain to deal with.

TIA, Jeff
 
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:46 PM
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Jeff, with the one I installed from PROMINI, it did allow for the stock sender to be installed behind it. So, I still have the light, supposedly. It was a bit of a chore though trying to get enough slack in the wires to reconnect it in its new location...
 
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:32 PM
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I bought the PROMINI one also, although my wires must have been a bit longer becasue they fit, tight but they fit.

Tony, I'll post pitures when I'm done, I've tried to take pictures of the whole process.

I may have a problem with my boost gauge install. When I started the engine yesterday the idle was high and uneven. I hope I don't have a vacuum leak in the fuel pressure regulator hose - that thing is a pain in the butt for my fat fingers to reach.

I will be tapping into the oil filter canister, but it will be for the temp gauge instead of the oil presure gauge. I thought about tapping the drain plug, but I think the oil filter will be a more accurate place for temperature readings and it will keep the sensor beter protected from harm.
 
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:04 PM
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I got some very long, and angled needle nose pliers for that baby! I then "padded" the teeth as to not cause any damage...

You might want to talk with BMP/PROMINI again as they have something coming-out for oil temp, if I recall correctly. I forgot where the tap was to be though...

I want to do oil temp and a voltmeter just below the toggles next. And the thought of removing the nearly useless cupholders and making a panel to support two more gauges is very appealing.

Let us know how it goes...
 
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:38 PM
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I don't want to think abou the pain I''ll go through if I damaged the vacuum hose! I think htat will mean taking the intake manifold off
 
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