Any updates? How are these cans working out for you guys?

 

Check my first post....

 

hey com3tojo3--
Could you share what size fittings you bought and tubing?
I see you cut the PCV tube and put the fittings on each end, then attached tubing on each to go to the catch can.
I have the same ebay can as you, with the worthless blue tubing.

I've heard regular heater hose may sweat oil over time, did you get a different type of tubing? And what diameter?
Sorry for all the questions, I'd rather make one stop and get the correct stuff.

Nothing to worry about going from a large diameter PCV tube to the small diameter going to the OCC?

 

These may be dumb questions:

1. What do you have to do to gain access to the drain plug when emptying the catch can??

2. Is there sufficient room under the catch can to place a container to catch the draining oil?? (I guess there is since there are pictures of jugs with drained oil.) Just have a hard time visualizing how the drained oil is caught without making a mess..

Thanks, Dan..

 

Sorry if I didnt really provide a whole lot of info, but the tubing I used was fuel injector tubing because I had heard that heater hose would sweat oil. As far as the fittings and the tube diameter Im not really sure of their exact size because I just took my catchcan and PCV tube into my local auto parts and we figured it out by trial and error.

I'm not too worried about going to a smaller diameter hose, I imagine their is enough vacuum where its not an issue. *** far as draining it I suck it all out from the top with a little piece of aquarium air tubing and a turkey baster

 

Thanks for the info com3tojo3. I need to get over to PepBoys and get the tubing still.

I wonder if there is a better way of baffling the can. I don't know if I really want to put steel wool into the can. I'm just paranoid as I'd hate to have little pieces of it break off and go into my engine. The old Alta CC's (which are like $100 and look cheaper than this thing!!) use foam as baffling. Anybody know if that would work effectively?

 

This is the breakdown:



Vinyl tubing is a bit stretchy so I worked it onto the 1/2" reducer. I ordered a 90 degree bend for the PCV tube so the hose would route towards the can instead of towards the rear of the car. The only spot you need a clamp is on the PCV hose because the fitting is a bit loose. The tubing is $.27/ft at Lowe's.

I also bought some more tubing and rerouted the system to increasing tube cooling. I tried to describe the routing here:



This is really making an improvement as it has filled almost half the can in 300miles.
Hope this helps guys. Our DI motors really suffer due to carbon build-up so this is a necessary mod. If it wasn't for environmental concerns, our cars would come from the factory like this.

 

Looks good

 

Nice, thanks for the info Tintman!

 

The tubes slip right off and there's only one screw holding down the catch can. Removal takes 30sec.

The can will probably rest up against a small fuse (or relay) box. I installed a small piece of felt on the back side of the can just to prevent any rattling.

 

very informative, indeed!

 

http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/oil.html

i think im going to make my own like this. but make it look better....

 

Seems like a neat idea and cheap too. The major cost is in fittings it seems.

 

I guess that's fine if you have a lot of free time, but I paid $18 shipped for my can so that's hard to beat.

 

I hope I can clear up whats happening here, so everyone can see why tintman is having such luck.

First off: science

Effect One:

Take a clear drinking straw. Breath in through your nose and out through you mouth into a drinking straw held horizontally. First the straw walls start to cloud up, then more moisture build up. At some point the moisture starts to pool and flows down the straw with the air pressure passing above it. As tiny little waves of moisture flow towards the end of the straw, they get bigger and bigger. Once the moisture hits the tip of the straw if falls to the floor because its heavier then air. The Moisture stuck to the walls because the walls of the straw are cooler then the air the moisture was suspended in.

Effect two:

When you have a moving fluid (air, water, oil) passing through an object, it follows Bernoulli's principle. Basically you have a flow, which equals pressure and velocity. So if one goes up, the other Must go down. The interior capacity of the can is much larger then the tube. So when the air leaving the tube enters the can. The air will go through a pressure change. this resulting pressure change instantly cools the air, causing moisture to condense. (think propane tank, it gets colder as pressure is released)


But I do have a pointer for Tintman. To improve your setup I would do one of two things.

1) Metal is a much better conductor of heat then Rubber. Add a section of metal hose between your valve cover and catch can. (aluminium tubing would be best) Basicly your building a still.

2) Or direct your tubing to the front of the engine bay and put an Oil cooler radiator inline.

 

>>But I do have a pointer for Tintman. To improve your setup I would do one of two things.

>>>1) Metal is a much better conductor of heat then Rubber. Add a section of metal hose between your valve cover and catch can. (aluminium tubing would be best) Basicly your building a still. <<< The problem here is that the engine bay isn't exactly cool and downright hot in the Summer. Vapor condensation is going to be directly related to the ability to cool the vapor.
>>>>2) Or direct your tubing to the front of the engine bay and put an Oil cooler radiator inline.<<< Aha! Now we're cooling the vapor, but you have now substituted an oil cooler for the catch can because the condensed liquid is going to want to stay in the oil cooler. Interesting stuff. For my 2 cents, or actually ~300 bucks, I'm going to install a Snow performance Stage-2 water/meth injector and just flush that stuff on through.

 

You can mount the catch can down by the cooler behind the bumper.

And the engine bay, where the catch can is located now is cooler then the air being vented from the engine.

 

looks so simple but it there a diy or sticky for this install?

 

Update @ 3000 miles, almost half a gallon:

 

How much of the half gallon is oil separations? Just curious it looks to be a very watery suspension at this time? Is the point to catch more oils or condensation in general as well?

 

I've been meaning to do this for a while. Ordered my catch can last night.

 

I would say about 1/3 is oil. The point is to catch the oil, but it also catches water in the process. During the warmer months there is very little water caught. What you see there was during the winter.

It's a must-have with these motors.

 

I've had my BSH on for almost 8 months and I like it.

 

Sorry I am new to this, so not sure how everything works but have a good idea. The questions I have are:

Did you have to Add oil to the engine Sytem? If so how much and How often do you need to check the oil after installing? Does this mod affect the emissons? and does this void the factory warranty?

I would assume if oil is going into the can then it would take it from the engine, and from the pic if a 1/3 of that is oil then you are removing it at a decent rate.

Again sorry for the noob question but just wondering before I try to do the mod.

 

I'll give you my 2 cents.
You don't have to add oil but do check it regularily anyway.
My car doesn't eat oil like some. Lucky I guess.
I think that example you saw is a gross exaggeration. I get very
little oil in my OCC. More water condensation and normally
that's when it's colder outside.
I drain mine about every 2-3 weeks depending on how often I
drive it.
I think as far as warranty (I don't have warranty on mine) but
I think it is up to the dealership. Most are OK with them.
Not sure about afftecting emissions. I wouldn't think so. I know the
older classic mini's dumped that crap out through a tube. The OCC is
catching it and you dispose of it (properly I hope).