My biggest question of all though...what is the source of this valve? What other car does it go to?

Granted, doesn't bother me in the slightest that someone else did the homework (WMW)...but where does it come from Wayland? Anyone?

See, that's what kills me personally...got a great piece of upgrade, at a great price in my opinion. But I would love to know what what else this valve fits or where it comes from.

Someone throw me a bone here if you got one.

 

You only lost one of those bolts? MIRACLE WORKER!! LMAO

I took a close look at the OEM/WMW valve and discovered they are made by the same outfit in Germany, Pierburg, the only difference being the OEM one has a BMW parts #. Oh, and that magical longer valve throw! Saw a post somewhere saying Pierburg makes this same valve for BMW, VW and others. WMW did some really good work ferreting out the very subtle differences in these valves. I suspect the WMW valve came off the JCW engine. Is that why it doesn't have any effect when put on a JCW? Thanks Way!

BTW, don't worry about whether you got it on right. If you can re-connect the electrical plug, it's on right! As for the reports of a decrease in MPG, that one's easy. The quicker the boost goes up, the quicker the gas tank empties! An increase in right foot weight may be a factor as well. LOL

 

The only reason I'm curious to the source is just peace of mind to know if it's an oem from another vehicle...or is it an "aftermarket" and as such it's been reworked. As for it being a JCW valve... if it is it's all I want to know.

I was surprised too I only lost one of those damn bolts. But here kicks in the paranoid side...I went to both Lowes and Home Depot looking for a bolt. What they carry, and what actually went into the bolt hole without issue, is an M6 allen bolt, with a 1.00 thread pitch, 16mm long but different grade of steel and blackened finish. Looking at realoem.com and penskeparts, the bolt is an M6 8.8 steel grade, 16mm long. So I just went ahead and ordered some oem bolts through penskeparts.com, replace the "lost one" so they're all identical.

Probably more of an OCD problem...

 

Not a JCW valve...according to PenskeParts, part number of the valve is the same for both MCS and JCW...11657593273

 

I'm sure it's a OEM part, lots of cars use them. Does it have a Bosh part # on it? I can look things up that way. My first guess would be to look at the Audi/VW 2.0T engines.

Can some one get the part numbers on the side? It looks just like this.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/ES26...Rhzgwod_y9IHA#

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6ZVs9QT0tY
http://www.eurotuner.com/techarticle...lve/index.html

 

Wish I did, installed it without trying to get a number off it...didn't really care.

 

Is the $64 price tag too expensive that you guys are trying to cut me out??? You won't find any part numbers on it the part. I took care of them, so someone couldn't find out the other brand of car I got it from. Cause after they find out they will post the part number and somewhere to buy it for $5 less. You all know what I'm talking about, that won't help my business.

 

Good point way. A brand new OEM DV costs more as well!

BTW Way, when are you coming out with a DV for us JCW owners?

 

I've tested few but making throttle responce smooth and one that reacts fast enough has been hard. But I got the Forge BOV and had great results from it, and the spring in it can be changed for different boost.

 

Right, so you'd recommend the Forge BOV for me then? I'm running the RMW tune for my Factory JCW, and that has about 23lbs of boost. I might need to order one off you as people suspect that my car is not holding boost for some unknown reason. Could you organize a quote for me (including shipping to australia)? I just need to double check with Jan that I need one, but chances are I do.

 

Not at all! $64 was great! Didn't mean to stir any pots really. It was just my curiosity is all, nothing more. My humble apologies.

 

Ordered my WMW BOV upgrade this morning and already received a shipped notification. Thanks Wayland!

The biggest b!tch about the R56 MINI is the disparity between Sport and non-sport off idle throttle response. The first modification was a torque arm insert. This is a must have in my book, helped quite a bit, and with NO adverse affects. However, two years later I still drive in Sport mode 99% of the time unless it is for long stretches. Hopefully quicker availability of boost will alleviate the need/desire/habit for Sport mode.

As for gas mileage decrease, while a consideration as my MINI is my daily transportation, is not a deal breaker. Smiles per gallon wins.

Bob

 

I don't think any of us were thinking of cutting you out. $64 is a fine price for it. The one I posted from ECS is $75, so no fear there.

It's also in poor taste for a vendor to be so defensive, & upset over this. It is a natural curiosity for us to want, to know what it is, & where it came form. Really it would not be hard for someone to figure out, so easy in fact that you had to remove any markings from it. For all we know it can be some off brand made in China cheap part & not a OEM type quality part.

Props for your for figuring it out, if you has just said it is a OEM, part that we tested a few of to find the best/safest one for our MINI's From your experience this is the "best" option for the $$. Putting the wrong DV on the car, can cause really bad things to happen.

 

gmodder,

The torque arm inserts are silly simple to install. It will take longer to get the car up on jack stands than it will be to install. A quick look-see under your car will help get the correct part.

Raise car on Jackstands
Loosen engine side bolt of torque arm. Not necessary to remove.
Loosen and remove frame side torque arm bolt.
Use long handled screwdriver to swing torque arm down.
Place inserts into the bushings on either side of the torque arm.
Swing torque arm back into place. Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer may be necessary to get it back into the mount.
Use a fat philips screwdriver to get the bolt holes lined up.
Tighten both torque arm bolts
Lower car
ENJOY!

 

I haven't purchased one yet for '11 R55S, but have enjoyed this thread. I'm wondering if Waylon might consider shipping the part with 2 spare screws for an extra $.50 or whatever? Seems like many people have dropped screws during the install process.

 

Speedin Bob's info is spot on. Only thing different I did was put a thin coat of silicone grease on the bushing surfaces. Didn't have a rubber mallet so used a screw type bar clamp to press it into place. If I see torque settings on any instructions I do it because they're there for a good reason. You can get a decent torque wrench at Harbor Freight for under $20. You're gonna be surprised the first time you drive it!

 

Guys, just an FYI on torque arm inserts (off topic)...you don't even need to hammer or pry it into place. Have the car in neutral and the parking brake set (taking pressure off the engine). Once the front bolt is loose and the rear one removed, you can just push on the engine at the oil pan. Doesn't take much effort to move the engine back and forth, makes it super easy to align that rear hole to put the bolt back in.

FWIW... give it a try

 

 

is this fine to use on a cooper s with the jcw upgrade???

 

Ordered and installed the WMW DV this weekend. What a godsend. My MINI's surge&stutter, 1st/2nd gear boost dump was driving me nuts. This eliminated all of that! Great job, Way!

I just wish I'd read this thread sooner! I saw the "BOV" thread title/descriptor and thought, "I don't want a noisemaker".

 

Don't you just love these bang-for-the-buck threads?

 

So long as the review is objective and accurate, I know I appreciate the heads-up on "worthless upgrades".

 

Truly.

 

This might be a stupid question, but do I need to get a retune from Jan if I get this? I assume I don't, but it can't hurt to ask.

 

Need? No, don't think so. Jan told me there were quite a few of his MINI customers running my tune file and were experiencing no problems. Not sure why my MINI was a trouble child. Not knowing all the details of the WMW DV and the stock MCS DV I can't really do anything but speculate /why/ it works better. Stiffer spring blah, blah, blah . Point is, that changes to the engine software work best within the operating parameters of the components. If you upgrade one, the others may (or may not) need to follow.

That said, could you get a more aggressive tune? Maybe. You'd have to ask Jan.

Good luck.