If I have read correctly the 2011+ MCS does not need this right? Thanks Sean

 

When I mentioned it to Way the one I listed before is what he recommended. No wherther 11 and up need it I don't know.

 

Found the part here. Dealer wants $20 for the 3 screws LOL!!!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&fg=50&hl=23

 

I found them at a local hardware store for like 30 cents each I just brought in the screw that I stripped to the store and the guy found me what I needed

 

Thanks I will look at Home Depot. I wasnt sure if OEM screws were a must. I guess not.

I have one screw that is striped from the inside too and am unable to remove it using a torx 30. Any ideas how I can remove it?

 

Here is the issue I have guys. I am trying to replace the BOV but the nut on the bottom is rusted and stripped out. I am tried everything (almost) - grabit with drill, torx, allen wrench but nothing has been able to get it out. Any ideas,

 

fullymooned,

in the past, i have used a small hammer to drive the next up size torx into an internally stripped torx or internal hex.....faiking that....

there is a time and place to get out the visegrip pliers and i think you may have found it

looks like you will need a small one as clearance looks tight

scott

 

I have tried vise pliers too. Not enough clearance. There are 2 nuts at the bottom for the BOV one is hidden and the other is this rusted one. The photo is actually tilted 90 degrees left.

 

Just installed my WMW diverter valve. Took no time at all. I completely removed the airbox hose and pulled the screw for the coolant tank to push aside. I used a T30 torx head with a small ratchet as others have instructed. Used a bit of tape to hold the T30 in place along with tape to reinsert the bottom screw. The bottom rear screw was completely out of sight so the use of a small extending mirror was key. An extending magnet was also helpful to pull the bottom rear screw out once loosened. My test drive was an instant noticeable change. A+ for this cheap and simple mod.

 

I need to get mine installed. How long did it take you Ryan?

 

Didn't take me long. Maybe 20 minutes.

 

Not bad. Should of installed it at lunch today.

 

So just to be sure I'm reading all this correct. This diverter valve is a VW part and WON"T do anything positive for a 2011+ JCW (ie. if you have a 2011+ JCW don't buy it)?

 

According to MINI/BMW ETK software. The real version of realoem. The stock electric valve is the same part for 07-08/10 N14 and 08/10 on N18 engines.

This part has been superseded three times to the current part number.

Part#11 65 7 578 683 was used up to 02/09 and was superseded to part #11 65 7 566 324. Which was then again superseded to the current part #11 65 7 593 273 in 05/09.

So that means MINIs with production of 05/09 on use the current updated valve OEM.


Part 11 65 7 593 273 (ELECTR.VALVE) was found on the following vehicles:
R55:
R55 Coop.S JCW Clubman
R55 Cooper S Clubman

R55N:
R55N Coop.S JCW Clubman
R55N Cooper S Clubman

R56: thru 08/10
R56 Coop.S JCW Coupe
R56 Cooper S Coupe

R56N:
R56N Coop.S JCW Coupe
R56N Cooper S Coupe

R57:
R57 Coop.S JCW Convertible
R57 Cooper S Convertible

R57N:
R57N Coop.S JCW Convertible
R57N Cooper S Convertible

R58:
R58 Coop.S JCW Coupe
R58 Cooper S Coupe

R59:
R59 Coop.S JCW Roadster
R59 Cooper S Roadster

R60:
R60 Cooper S Countryman
R60 Cooper SX Countryman

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....eur=&details=1

 

Yup, don't buy it. JCW's and 2011+ MCS models already have the improved MINI/Peugeot diverter valve that's less prone to tearing the valve membrane.

-Clint

 

http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-per...off-valve.html
I am a little confused if this will work on the 2012 mini cooper s n18. on the left side it says 2007+ but it is still unclear.

 

So is there a benefit from any aftermarket diverter valve for, say, a 2012 MINI other than sound? I was considering the Forge DV on the assumption it would handle improved boost from a tune better than OEM, but now wondering if its necessary.

 

I was on the fence about getting this but the reviews on the WMW website coupled with the price...it was just about a no brainer. I was already going to be in there anyway swapping out my pressure converter, I thought why not?

After logging about 100 miles mixed highway/city driving, here's my thoughts:

Pros:

1) As advertised, 1st and 2nd gear lag is gone. For this reason alone, it's worth it
2) Install was a piece of cake, even for my caveman ***.
3) Actually got to speak to Way on the phone, some of the best damn customer service I've ever received. Super nice guy, and super fast shipping.

"Cons" (not really a con, just thoughts based on preferences):

1) "Blow off" sound is almost non existant. I don't know if I need to break the valve in a little more but with the stock one, I got a nice audible "TSSSCHH" with normal driving...and I loved it. I could even hear it over my radio. With the WMW one I can barely hear it with the radio off, and that's with me getting on the gas and TRYING to get it out. Some will probably prefer that, but I loved the cool sound.
2) Based on the reviews I was kind of expecting "sport mode" type performance. I didn't really feel that...but like I mentioned above, the most noticeable change was the immediate response in 1st and 2nd gear. no more lag. and so that made it worth it to me.

Pics uploaded show: 1) How I created space to work 2) Rhino ramps worked perfect (for installing NM Engineering torque arm insert...unrelated I know) and 3) Even more unrelated- the interior of my mini lmao.

 

cool interior lol… very functional.

 

I installed the WAY BOV about a month ago and loved the little added "tssh" sound, then mated it with the Forge BOV adapter. It sounds so frickin cool Of course, if you don't want to here it go off everytime you let off the gas, don't get the Forge adapter