Drivetrain It's here!!
Well, my Christmas present is here! The H sport springs and RDR adjustable rear sway bar came today.
I probably won't get to install them until New Year's Eve (when I can use the lift at work without getting too much attention), but that gives me time to take the car in to get the new rattle in the passenger door fixed before I put the springs on and potentially get my claim denied.
So far the guys at Helix seem to have done a good job, I don't notice any missing parts or anything.
Just sharing my day,
Travis
I probably won't get to install them until New Year's Eve (when I can use the lift at work without getting too much attention), but that gives me time to take the car in to get the new rattle in the passenger door fixed before I put the springs on and potentially get my claim denied.
So far the guys at Helix seem to have done a good job, I don't notice any missing parts or anything.
Just sharing my day,
Travis
4th Gear
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Graham, NC
You're going to love the H-sports. Made a HUGE difference in handling. Make sure you have a couple of spring compressors handy because those front springs are configured such that the usual size compressor may not necessarily work.
One problem now is that I can't use the small bottle jack I kept in the boot for emergencies which is part of my non-runflat tire panic kit. Also, my floor jack doesn't fit under the front jack points any more.
One problem now is that I can't use the small bottle jack I kept in the boot for emergencies which is part of my non-runflat tire panic kit. Also, my floor jack doesn't fit under the front jack points any more.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
From: East
>>One problem now is that I can't use the small bottle jack I kept in the boot for emergencies which is part of my non-runflat tire panic kit. Also, my floor jack doesn't fit under the front jack points any more.<<
You can still use it. Place the jack just behind (fronts) or in front of (rears) the jack points and it works just fine. The bigger problem is the big floor jack that no longer fits. To remedy this get yourself one of the aluminium racing jacks (a little over $100 for the generic ones) as they fit under the lowered jack points.
You can still use it. Place the jack just behind (fronts) or in front of (rears) the jack points and it works just fine. The bigger problem is the big floor jack that no longer fits. To remedy this get yourself one of the aluminium racing jacks (a little over $100 for the generic ones) as they fit under the lowered jack points.
Unless it is an emergency, I'm planning to still be able to use my jack, by using the tried and true "drive up on a couple 2x4s" method.
On the compressors: I have a set of the clamp style, where you put one on each side. Think those will work? I have a couple weeks to find something else. I think my local Autozone rents/loans them out, too.
On the compressors: I have a set of the clamp style, where you put one on each side. Think those will work? I have a couple weeks to find something else. I think my local Autozone rents/loans them out, too.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
From: East
Yellow -
If you do not have camber plates you can do the rears AND the fronts without spring compressors. Get a friend to help you compress the spring assembly and then **** the top spring perch to one side to lock it on the shock threads. Then start the bolt, turn it on a few threads and then release the perch and use the sprak plug socket method to tighten it. Be sure to put the washers on the shock shaft or the nut will seat without tightening the perch. You will no this if the front suspension goes BANG over every bump (guess how I know this).
The rears are easy as the spring rates are less. Just compress and start the nut and tighten.
Good luck!
If you do not have camber plates you can do the rears AND the fronts without spring compressors. Get a friend to help you compress the spring assembly and then **** the top spring perch to one side to lock it on the shock threads. Then start the bolt, turn it on a few threads and then release the perch and use the sprak plug socket method to tighten it. Be sure to put the washers on the shock shaft or the nut will seat without tightening the perch. You will no this if the front suspension goes BANG over every bump (guess how I know this).
The rears are easy as the spring rates are less. Just compress and start the nut and tighten.
Good luck!
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 1
From: Wisconsin
Please post your impressions after the install. I've had the RDR swaybar for about 9 months, and been toying with the H-sports. What tires, wheels do you have? Good luck
His, Chile REd all over, Madness CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Helix pulley & RDR swaybar
Hers, EB Union Jack on top and bone stock.
His, Chile REd all over, Madness CAI, Magnaflow exhaust, Helix pulley & RDR swaybar
Hers, EB Union Jack on top and bone stock.
I have yoko AVS ES-100s on 17x7 Prodrive P1s. Those aren't on the car right now, as I'm running the 16" runflats and x-lites as my 'winter' setup.
I'll let everyone know what I think, although the real proof will be in March when autocross season starts. Stock with just the yokos and Prodrives I thought the car was sloppy on turn in and had terminal steady state understeer. But I'm comparing it with my previous cars, an E46 325Ci and a Z3.
I'll let everyone know what I think, although the real proof will be in March when autocross season starts. Stock with just the yokos and Prodrives I thought the car was sloppy on turn in and had terminal steady state understeer. But I'm comparing it with my previous cars, an E46 325Ci and a Z3.
