i just found out that my 05 MCS has a alta 17% pulley...how many lbs of boost and how much hp are these pullies rated for
thanx

 

Boost levels are dependent on several things....if head work has been done the level will drop if the volume remain the same...but the general number for most stock "S"'s with a 17 is about 17 PSI with a good SC at sea-level, and moderate temps. as a general rule, 1 inch or so for every couple thousand above sea-level....SC can compensate a bit for altitude, but not nearly as good as a turbo.
As for HP....not sure, likely 175 or so to the tires on a dino, depending on the dino, temp, miles and condition of the car.....a bit of a educated guess...an intake, exhaust, etc would help.
The biggest plus of having the 17% reduction, is it brings boost in at lower rpm's....the biggest detractor is heat...on a hot day, you timing might be retarded a bit more than a 15%....since these supercharges make more heat the more boost they run....

 

well my mini is a stock 05 with a 17% pulley and i am only putting out 12 psi..and i am in Toronto ontario..so i think i am not to far above sea level...it sounds low and the belt looks old..when i rev it up out of gear the tensioner moves alot..could be a sign of a bad belt? i hope so, i am getting it changed tomorrow...

 

It might be slipping....the 535 length belt is the right length (us sizing system)....the stock belts will slip lots....
The age of the SC will also effect boost levels. (it is a wear item), as will any headwork, porting, or boost leaks, as will things like headders, and low back preassure exaust....so lower boost can be good or bad...depending on the reason...boost is just the resistance to the amount of air you are trying to cram into the motor....

 

true but it pulled a low 144hp 127 torque with a header high flow cat and a 17% alta pullie.....its a 2005 mcs with 132000 km..should not be wore out by now...lol...

 

You could have a stuck/leaky bypass valve too...do a quick search, or a leaky SC boot. A quick search will get you some good info on what to look for.

 

Was losing about 1-1.5 lbs of boost, turned out to be the new OEM couplers.....Replaced them with a set from M7, problem solved. Will take the OEM set back for replacement as they are still under 2yr warranty.

 

well i changed the bypass with a new one..what a waste of money...now i am stumped

 

What header and what cat? How old are yor plugs and what filter are you running?

 

dunno on the plugs but i know they r a ngk r with the 4 prongs and i looked up the number and they r a step cooler.....not sure on the header or cat but the cat back is stock..and stock air box with a k&n panel filter.....will a header and cat lower my boost that much..???
thanx

 

Dutch >>>The first thing you should most likely do is develope a relationship with a tuner / shop who in turn will educate you as to the "scope" / "dictionary"and purpose of modifications. Sounds as if your not in the states as you use the term / measure of kilometers instead of mileage. Still to shops such as WAY or Helix this is of no consequence if you've no one "local". The S.C starts off stock at app 10.50 lbs boost (reg "S" NOT JCW) 15% is just that=1.50 lbs so now you've got 12 etc etc. But from what you've listed for mods it sounds a bit messy / unclear as to being well thought out and you seem a bit unsure as to what you really have; find someone who does. 100,000 miles on a 17% pullied S.C. IS about right especially if it was never getting any air to start with ("stock air box?) and the "infamous" alta I.C. Get your stuff straightened out NOW and you'll likely get another hundred "K" OBEY

 

well i just installed the snow water meth injection just for cooling, so that will help everything to stay cool and prolong wear...

 

What you need to do is to take the old bypass valve and replace the spring for a stronger one. Go to your car and check the bypass valve and if you can push the rod on the bypass valve without any resistance it is too soft. I replaced the spring on my 2005 17% mini bypass valve and the difference is noticeable. My 2 Cents.....

Henry
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One other thing....you quoted km for distance on the car....how is the dino setup? there are different HP standards....US hp, and others...
also how does it drive...dino's are a tool....and comparisons are best on the same dino, before and after. some dino's might always read low...
other factors are altitude, heat, etc.
Of course, some motors are just weak or tired...
If you have a silicone intake tube...they sometimes slip off on the bottom...letting in dirty air...causing wear...
Hope that since this is an old thread, all is good!!

 

Hmmm...I'm very interested in this. Where is the bypass valve located? Do you have any pictures? And, where can you get a new spring?

Thanks!

 

Well it is either a bad tensioner or its boost escaping. At about 5500rpm i here a loud squealling and my boost drops (i have a guage). So i am gonna tear it apart and get to the bottom of this. I know its not something major because it runs and drives great......

 

The Squealing is indicative of a slipping belt....the rpms seem about right too....With a 17% you should have a 535 length belt on...and be replacing yearly. I would do that first...the new belts are cheap...and easy!!

 

well i just changed the belt to a 535 and i modified the stock air box(i am gonna get an aftermarket one anyways) to sck in more air and b4 i was losing boost at 10 psi at 5500 rpm with squealing belt, now no squealing pulls all the way to 7000 rpm and reaches almost 15 psi...its like a rocket now compared to what it was....any recomendations on an aftermarket air box??? i am pleased now....maybe i can squeeze more out of it....

 

Take a look at this: http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f608...s-airbox-2826/ I just installed one on my '05 S Cabrio. You can also see pics of the install in my thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rut-brace.html

-Steven

 

Depends on what you want....they all make similar power....The sound is different from one design to another...as is the look!!

1)Alta sounds devine....but on more than a short trip...it can old quickly...
2)The JCW is pretty quiet....some folks remove the rear flap...so it makes more noise.
3)The Dinian is pretty livable, looks OEM....I have one...On sale since Dinian has been dropping MINI stuff...
4)The DDM is beautiful if you can spare the $$$. Have heard very good things about them.
Many other brands...mostly similar in characteristics to the above in designs. A quick search will get you tons of info. The prices varry a bit. Alta knock-offs are the most common...
One tip...Some folks have had hydro-lock/motor failure issues...if you drive in severe weather sometimes, and your car is a daily driver....an enclosed filter to prevent ingestion of water, thereby preventing motor destruction may be a good idea!! Just my Opinion!

 

And good to hear the belt fixed things before digging deeper!! It is always best to rule out the simple stuff!!

 

Go Alta and don't look back. It only whines when you are getting into the supercharger. Driving at 65mph, you won't even hear it. If you get into it, you'll hear that SC whine though. It is a wonderful thing.

And the cheapest of the bunch. We love ours.

 

Bypass valve is located on the right side (looking at the engine) down by the throttle body.



You can get a Detroit Tuned one that has a stronger spring and fully closes.

 

Thanks so much for letting me know that. So, theoretically it says you get about 1psi. I wonder if our 03 is still the factory bypass valve, would we see more than 1psi?

The drop in gas mileage has me a bit worried. I do everything I can to eek every mpg out of the car that is possible. Hmmm.....

Efficiency and power or mileage? That is the question.

 

Some folks like the effect of the DT part, some don't. The general consensus is it makes the car a bit harder to drive smoothly...so it depends on your driving style and personal likes/dislikes.
A tune or maybe a better exaust might be a good next step...
With my tune I have more hp, better drivability, and if i am careful, just about the same mpg as I had when I was stock...and sometimes better.
Even with the bigger injectors, and the 17% reduction pulley, I still get 28-29 mpg on the highway (varies by 1-2 mpg due to AC, snow tires, and seasonal fuels) around town is less than stock maybe...but I am going faster...if I drove like it was stock, I might get better!!