Changed out the radiator this weekend using info from this thread. Done in 3.5 hours and that included a breakfast break and fixing damage from wife hitting a squirrel. Thanks a bunch! Doing it again in two weeks to put in new fan to fix broke low speed. Should be done in under 2 hours this time. To make mention about your dip stick issue. I had good intentions about 2 years ago to make a post about this very problem and never got around to it. I had two dip sticks brake on me and one got stuck. Although not wanting to tear into the car I opted for finding another option. I took a coat hanger, bent the tip into a small U shape and stuck it down the tube. Grabbed the broke piece, kind of like catching a fish, and after a couple tries snagged the broke piece and pulled it out. Laziness breeds invention or something like that.

 

Does anyone know if you have to drain the radiator to change the crank position o ring and sc inlet gasket??

 

What do the extension pins do for you? Just to make the install a one man job, or is there a more serious reason? Is there a way around this? Thanks.

 

The pins support the MFE as you slide it away from the body. You don't need the OEM pins. I just used the longest I could find at the hardware store. IIRC they were 80 or 90mm vs the OEM 100mm. Worked fine.

 

Gerldoc, I did this for a living for 5.5 yrs and that is one of the best "civvie" write-ups I have ever encountered. Kudos x 2 !!!!!!!!!

 

Yea though I walk with a lack of MINI knowledge, I shall fear no MINI, for this forum and Gerldoc's write-up (sticky) art with me!

I have been doing a LOT of reading on this forum. Thanks for breaking this removal process down to it's lowest common denominator. If and when needed I'm now ready to tear into the front end confidently because of your very simplistic write-up.

Great job! ...........and again, "Thank you".

 

GerlDoc, This write-up helped IMMENSELY this past weekend as I needed to replace the water pump in my 2002 R53. Getting into Service Mode was a breeze because of this EXCELLENT write-up..... wish I could say the same for the rest of the process of getting the old water pump removed.

 

Guess what? I'm baaaaack...

I really just got absorbed in work, and for a long time, drove my other car (2006 BMW 330xi). Now with the summer coming, I'm back to driving "Mrs. Peel". And, after 2+ years, I am finally reading all of the nice posts about my writeups! What a nice surprise - thank you all!

But, you all should know, I don't have any special mechanical ability - really... I am a 50-plus year old woman who likes to figure out things and if feasible, do them by myself. I am a doc, and like puzzles and challenges, true - but this is something anyone with the tools can do.

Just be confident, take your time, take it step-by-step, and all should be fine.

Believe me when I say that if I can do it, anyone can do it!

I am just so pleased that the time I put into the writeup has been helpful to so many other Mini owners out there... this is very helpful feedback, since I strove to make the write-up as simplistic as possible...

Happy Motoring and Cheers

Melanie

 

Welcome back. Your right ups have helped many MINIacs and we all thank you.

 

Melanie, for every person who posted, I bet at least five more have used your posts to fix their own cars and didn't chime in with a thank you. Making the work approachable is the first step to mastering it. Hugs and thanks from a big fan...

 

Have consulted your write-ups several times Mel, people like you who take the time to do this stuff cannot be thanked enough.

 

First, i also want to thank GerlDoc for the writeup. I just used it to get at the fan resistor that broke.

If there are others that "stripped" the plastic Philips screw head that are holding onto the inner fender, you can use a 10mm plastic push plug from an Acura/Honda.

Steve

 

Thanks for this and the coolant flushing guide. I'm in the process of putting everything back together after the fan replacement.

Can someone post the torque specs for the bolts on the bumper carrier? I don't have the Bentley manual and since this is what the tow hook screws into, it seems pretty important to get the torque right

 

Gusting, these are the specs for the R53. If you need more, let me know; but this is everything from the Front Bumper/bumper cover/bumper carrier/MFE sections of the Bentley manual.

Front bumper cover position
Front bumper cover to engine hood gap = 6 +/- mm (0.24 +/- 0.04 in)

Tightening torques
Engine splash shield to front bumper cover and MFE (M6 x 16mm) = 6 Nm (53 in-lb)
Front bumper adjuster to bumper (M6 x 20mm) = 6 Nm (53 in-lb)
Front bumper cover to MFE (M6 x 16mm) = 5 Nm (44 in-lb)
Front bumper carrier to frame or to crush tube (M8) = 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)
Crush tube to front subframe (M12 x 1.5 X 85mm) = 100 Nm (74 ft-lb)
Crush tube to MFE (M6) = 5 Nm (44 in-lb)
Engine splash shield to front bumper cover and MFE (M6 x 16mm) = 6 Nm (53 in-lb)
Front bumper carrier to frame or to crush tube (M8) = 22 Nm (16 ft-lb)
Transmission fluid cooler to radiator = 4 Nm (35 in-lb)


/t

 

This is exactly what I needed, thanks

 

Wanted to say Thanks!

I just wanted to pass along many THANKS! Using your DIY posts you guys saved me over $1000!

Gerldoc: Service Mode, great write up...gotta love a girl who can handle her spanners! This helped me get to the cooling fan and I know I will use it in the future.

Octaneguy: Brakes, front and back. While I was at it I put SP Performance cross drilled & slotted rotors to go with my EBC red stuff pads. Dealer $1100 I did it for a little over $500

Stevendoll: Cooling fan, what can I say dealer quoted $650 I got the fan at Rock Auto for about $70 your tips made it an easy fix.

Thanks to all!! Dave, Jacksonville,Fl. my motor: 06 HB/B MCS, sport pkg, MSD coil, nology wires, craven strut tower defenders, 15% pulley, SP Performance CD&S rotors, limo tint windows, tinted wind screen...sshhh! adult beverage...always Crown Royal!

 

Awesome. Awesome Writeup. Thank you!!

 

Thanks for the writeup. very detailed. My only question is that do you think this doable without having to jack up the vehicle? I don't have all the necessary tools to jack up the car, and I don't want to have to buy them if it is not necessary.

Thanks!

 

Excellent write-up. But one minor correction - the vertically mounted bolt shown in the pictures in her Step 3, the one she painted with red nail polish, does not control the height of the bumper skin; rather, it is the horizontally mounted bolt that provides for a range of adjustment.

 

Unfortunately car will need to be jacked up, maybe someone will loan you what you need.

 

Any chance of getting the pictures back up? Great write up.

 

+1 please!

 

Here you go, waybackmachine to the recue and also Mike @ ECS Tuning.

https://web.archive.org/web/20160719...front-end.html