Alright so this is what I have set up:
15% CravenSpeed Supercharger Pulley
2% Alta Crank Pulley
aFe CAI
DTBPV
400cc Bosch Injectors
NGK Plugs
Custom StraightBack Exhaust
Intercooler Sprayer
RMW TUNE 205WHP 185TQ
Current mileage: 112,000

I am thinking about Port and Polishing the head unit, intake and exhaust, and adding a RMW Street Camshaft, then re-tuning (RMW).

From what everyone has done here, all the mechanics, engineers, tuners and such... What do you guys think? Can anyone help me out on these questions:

1. How much whp/tq can i expect to get?
2. Will this make my engine a bit healthier/longer lasting?
3. Any cons to this setup?
4. Has anyone P&P their head, intake and exhaust units?

please let me know!!!! Thanks everyone!!

 

ALSO:

I don't really track my car either, just a daily driver with the goal of [EDIT] and MAYBE some AutoX (hence the Ksport Coilovers). So with that in mind..... Thankks again!

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any help at all?

 

headers, cam

 

Without tracking the car, unless you are approaching red line consistently with your current setup and you are feeling the Mini bog down, then I think the cam and the head could be a waste of your time. I have heard of those mods killing gas mileage and whatnot. And besides, most cams are tuned for the top end of your RPM, which can be murder on an OEM clutch. Also, with over 100k, when you start messing with internal pieces the engine itself can start to experience progressed wear and tear in other areas. A reputable BMW tuning shop once told me that to do extensive mods passed 90k was basically asking to come and see them more often!

I would look at the header since it seems to free up some good power, would still help you in the higher ranges of the power band, and be a relatively easy piece to install. After that, re-tune is doable but not completely necessary. Start with a header and see what you think. You may surprised at the new found power your ride will have! That header should also be a safe mod for your mileage as well, keep heat down in the engine bay, and further the life of your car!

 

But wouldn't a p&p head help the car a bit? Perhaps run better since it is more like a new cylinder head? I was thinking of doin the p&p at Steve's autoclinic. Anyone have experience with those head units?

 

Port and Polish with OEM sized valves shouldn't have an effect on your gas mileage. Also, from my reading the RMW/Newman Street cam is designed for a very broad power band, not just top end rip. Although I would assume you could get one that would accentuate upper RPM gains.
I would venture a guess that a P&P head and cam would be worth something in the neighborhood of 20whp with tuning. A header would also compliment the extra air flow; good for maybe another 7-10whp.

 

The gas mileage issue isn't too big of a deal i suppose, i don't do TOO much driving. I just want to know more realistic gains too i suppose. Hoping for around the 235 range would be nice. Does anyone out there have some dyno sheets with P&P heads?

 

R53WARIOR's gains are about average, its not like you are turning the boost up to 30psi on an EVO, You bought a MINI, dont expect alot out of just a couple parts. Even taking the head off of a 100,000+ mile engine to do the P&P (or worse yet swaping to a re-manned head) is risky.

Racing on the street is ILLEGAL, YOU WILL GET COUGHT, Take it to the track.

 

So doing a P&P can hurt my car quite a bit? HMM thats not what I was hoping for. I was thinking about just a camshaft, p&p and port matching the throttle body. I also want solid torque too. Is there any other things I can do to increase torque-age? lol Thank you everyone for the help so far!

 

Idk what would be bad about pulling a head on an older car. People have to do it all the time to replace head gaskets. The only thing I can think of is the head maybe be ever so slightly warped which can easily be fixed by anyone with a CNC machine or your porter. Any decent cylinder head shop will check the head for warp no matter.
I will say this though, if you want Tq then you are kinda stuck where you are without swapping internals. You will see slight gains below 3000 but most power gains will be from 4000 up.

 

Yea I was wondering the same about the P&P. Seems like it would be better right? But I could be hugely mistaken, not a mechanic lol. Yea Steve's Auto Clinic said he can do a P&P with intake and exhaust port matching for about 1800 with Labor and Studs Gaskets included. Seems ok? I might ask him to port match the throttle body too. I guess gain from 4000 rpm won't be too bad, better than around the even higher numbers. I'm thinking of either a RMW camshaft or a Schrick. Any opinions on those?

Again all these questions are just because this will be an expensive project, don't want any mistakes lol.

 

1800 is pretty steep. Check out Thumperheads.com, I have seen some really promising dyno's from his work and for the same 1800 you can get a reground cam on top of everything else. He offers two different cam grinds too depending on your needs. I was going to get one of his heads when I broke a valve but just didn't have the expendable cash.

 

Depending how healthy your engine is - over 100k - a head would be the next step.

Most of bolt ons today always work better with a better than OE head. The head is the horse in front of the cart. A stock size valve ( w/ a few angles ) & a resonable P&P would be the cake you already have the iceing for.

 

when Helix get's back from the Dragon I will post up a dyno sheet of the thumper head/ns1 cam/mynes header and tune...........with same pulley combo as you have............you all can be the judge of what it makes

there is so much bs out there in our community about what stuff does.... you want to see reality.........come by the shop and drive a car that has our parts on it and then ask to drive our competitors..........You get what you pay for. All this garbage of you don't track your car so why buy the stuff that actually can........... BECAUSE IT WORKS

 

I really really really want the RMW cam+head+tune combo! What would the pricing be on that with installs? And yea I am a tad skeptical when it comes to P&Ps. Will it be around the 3K range? I can be in your shop on the May 15th for EVERYTHING!

 

Good chioce.....& BTW you will be getting a P&P head & you do get what you pay for

 

RMW doesn't happen to offer financing right?

 

or a warranty... personally id go with a thumper head... I've seen an rmw fail in less than a month... (it does make power, but i personally think he shoudl use SLIGHTLY smaller valves (not much , just a little) his head will get you a lot of power, but as with any high-performance race parts, you sacrifice reliability.. no matter what the part is... and since you have an older car, id go with a thumper and get his personal opinion on whats best for your mileage car and your uses. the headers are good though (unless you care about a large yellow service engine light, but then again i get that anyways with mine... but its due to a leaky doughnut gasket on the exhaust (his headers doo make power, but they will tend to throw a cat code because they allow the gases to move so well.. kind of funny really...) and the cam is simply a Newman cam and is pretty good (if memory serves me right)

you will also probably need larger injectors....

personally im waiting to see if they EVER come out with the tvs 800...
then im doing lower compression forged pistons... aww damn.. you get the point.

 

That TVS sounds cool, what is the pricetag on that conversion?

 

we have always warrantied any defects
even when people have screwed them up

also, the 3 cars now that we have dyno'd have never broken 200whp
2 at the Orlando tune and 1 at the Philly tune

same dyno a car with just our cam and header made 200whp on the same Philly dyno

 

there is only 1 TVS and it was done with the 1320 TVS unit. It is a very large charger. We had great results with it but it's way too expensive to make into a kit. Eaton is not going to have a charger out that will fit our car in quite some time. Not to fret.................

 

I wouldn't change a thing on that head. I have the very first one built and it's never had a problem one in over three years .

LB

 

What ya get with new quality valves, springs, etc; a top notch head that'll last and perform at whatever level you want it to!!

 

Hi jan/ Longboard...hope all is well!

Let me help with some basic info here... ( and see if it gets posted.)
Yes.. this summer a friend went to Orlando to get a TUNE. We met Ian and a few other people.
My friends car was having issues, as it was down on power and was throwing lights. Our thoughts were that if there were issues,
Jan could ID them and we could make repairs, as we have NO Capability here in Jax for the ECU or changing /checking any of the electrical components.

When we got there Jan confirmed there were ECU/driviability issues. My friend asked if he could diag for him.. Of course Jan said yes.

After a few pulls the car has making 189 WHP ( 17%-CAI-TPR-2 - NS2- Cat back) the base was only 181 WHP.( as I said we knew it was down on power.

The end result was after The tuner tried to pull power, didnt read and help with the issues that were keeping the power down, the gain was a huge 8 whp! At one point the compression test was run and we were told the compression was at 60-80 PSI( Cool...huh??)

My friend still had to pay the $100.00 for the use of the dyno! Jan the $300-350.00 for the Tune. and of course the cost of the new Chrysler 440 inj ( another $300+ )with the adapter harness. and drove his "Jan Tuned" Mini back to OP. with us baffled. 8 HP!!

In OP my friend ran a compression test and yield 170 psi balanced across all the cylinders, a leak down was less than 2%.. and yes, that TPR-2 Headed engine didnt break 200 whp. Go figure!!

Just a bit more info on this... IF you dabble thru the Internet and read any, if not all of the pages and pages on engine and Head work.. they ALL ( with out question) say to choose the head to the application of the engine. IF you race, then large CC runners and valves... If you dont, then velocity thru the smaller CC runners and valve size. Power can be lost in the low to mid range.. if too big for your application. As Obama says.. "these are the statements form others" There are now a few Cylinder Heads/ and Camshaft that are closer to the application of MOST drivers..

Quality Parts.... BMW? Not Quality??


Thanks and I hope this helps in the decision process when choosing a Head or Cam for your MINI..

Just me.......................................

Thumper

PS: as of this day. 45 days after the TUNE, the engine melted #2 spark plug and took out the piston like it had a 200 shot of Nitrous. My friend still hasnt pulled the Head as he is a bit disapointed, yes?