With all that supporting information available on the Internet, how about showing us an example of "power can be lost in the low to mid range" with larger than stock valves on a MINI head? How about sharing a photo of the tool you are using to measure velocity and what is your benchmark? Surely this could help with one of the OP's four questions asked.

 

[quote=k-huevo;3043393]With all that supporting information available on the Internet, how about showing us an example of "power can be lost in the low to mid range" with larger than stock valves on a MINI head?
quote]

K-huevo.. how have you been?? I think the answer is in your question. I feel if you get to any article on Performance Heads and engines, you will find the answer to that question, as they all basicly say the same thing.
Search "velocity Probes" for some equipment , and how they are used.
Cool?

Just me.................................

Thumper

 

Just curious Thumper? Why did you include me in your post .

I really don't want to be part of your ping pong game so please leave me out.

LB

 

Now you realistic so don't expect this. My car was strong to begin with and when I added the head the car just loved it. It made crazy power that blew both Jan and myself away.

This is a before and after dyno. The only thing added was the head. One thing you can see is I didn't lose TQ .

Mods:

Stock head before then RMW "BIG VALVE" head
stock motor
Stock cam
380cc injectors
OBX header
Milltek cat back
Alta CAI
Stock ECU

 

Oh Thanks LB! Some solid evidence! And apologies to people out there, there seems to be a lot of tension going on here. lol just a general q&A here

 

LB, why did you stick with the OEM Cam? Any idea of what that would have netted you gains wise?

 

Great numbers LB! I thought it wasn't possible to run just a BV head without a tune? Was this with 380cc or 550cc injectors?

 

Hard data, thanks!!!

 

Yea I am definitely getting a cam, I really want to get the RMW street cam but Jan hasn't responded to me :( I think i've been bugging him too much. I do have a question on headers. Should i get one if i am camming as well as replacing the head unit? Thanks!

 

The only real cam available back then was the schrick and . Wasn't worth the cash.

I had the street cam in my old engine and now I have the stage 2 race cam. The street cam is a really great cam. It gave me great low - mid tq which was nice. I would bet it's the number one selling Mini cam world wide.

LB

 

When I put that head on there really wasn't any "real tunes" for our cars at the time. That said, my car ran great with the setup I had. I added the Rotrex SC before I got that set up tuned. I still wonder today what it would have been like had I got it tuned.

LB

 

Well I think that would be a bet you would lose . Schrick, a world wide mfg and distributer of cam shafts since 1969 ,and the only cam readily available for the Mini for at least the first 2 or 3 years of production would have a hell of a head start on anything that has come along recently .
Randy
M7 Tuning

 

So do you guys think I will need a header? Or will the stock header suffice?

 

Wow, I am lost in all of this head talk. But it is good because a lot of people can be helped from it.

Why dont we keep the arguing about who's hardware is better to ourselves and help this guy out. He has a car with pretty much all the bolt ons that can be bolted on to make power, but he got useto the way the car feels and wants more.

Some people say that opening up the head too far(with a stock cam) will cause you to potentialy loose power, and others say that it wont. Others say that adding a cam to a stock head will not be worth the time, and others say that it is.

In my opinion a slightly reworked head with a good cam is the way to go for a daily use street car. He said the car is his daily driver that occasionaly gets some track use and a heavy foot on the street at night, and the car has 112,000 miles on it, wich reuires some special attention when swaping heads, resurfacing, do a compression check BEFORE AND AFTER, new head studs. For day to day traffic you want to keep your bottom end power and still get a nice gain in the mid/upper RPM's. You can loose your low end power by, going too big on the ports, and also getting too big of a cam, But your top end will scream.

What I think you should do is, do a minor P&P on the exahust side(just a little more than the JCW head), just clean up the intake side(lightly touch up the rough spots and polish them), Leave the valve size stock(maby a little bigger on the exit doors if it is in your budget), and shop around for a cam to maximize the stock head. As for headers YES you want them they are your main power restriction, RMW has some great ones. With this setup you shuld retain your low end grunt and see some good gains through out the RPM range. Just dont forget to do a re-tune to maximize the efficancy of the new parts.

 

Thanks Dicks Garage! I appreciate all the love that is here on NAM. And I think this thread is pretty good because it seems to address the mileage issue and the bigger mods. I think I will for sure get a RMW cam and then a simple P&P. Then hopefully off to Jan for a supertune! I am currently shopping for headers but am not 100% sure that I will purchase one. But i am very interested!! Thank you again to everyone!! Jan where have you been ? :D

 

well.........if you came by the shop you would see why

personally, I'm tired of the garbage about small valves this and tiny cams that has been posted around here with no data to back it up. THere are many threads from customers here on this forum with dyno sheets etc. There is no other head/cam/header combo out there that will make the hp and tq that mine do..... its been proven at dyno day after dyno day around the country. Even in England where they have tried desperately to beat it. We all hear of numbers that come out but they never materialize during an actual dyno event.....................

 

HMMMmmmm........ LB sorry I said HI to ya!
Jan here a dyno from the UK.. the power levels are BHP so they make no sense anyway.. it is the power and torque curves that are the issue!

"As some of you aware Mike sent us a head to do some testing and see what we can get out of it in the way of performance on the dyno and on the track.
As you can see from the dyno sheet comparing the RMW head and tune on Big Shows car and the Thumper head and a Chris tune on 1320’s Mini
We still need to do some more testing off combos as and when we can but we have achieved the following so far."
( Note: these numbers were with a bad ECU!)

[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]( see attached BVH vs TPR-2 Head )
[/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]TPR-2 VS a RMW Head ...... The TPR-2 head with 15% pulley, Janspeed manifold, JCW CAI,stock cat back and newman cam - generated the[SIZE=5][SIZE=5]same [/SIZE][/SIZE]hp/trq curve as : [SIZE=4][SIZE=4]RMW[/SIZE][/SIZE][SIZE=4][SIZE=4] head [/SIZE][/SIZE]Janspeed JCW CAI 15% stock cat back newman cam combo. "

On the engine the Car has gone 12.90s with slicks in the Qtr.
0n the bottle the car has gone 11.10s on slicks

See attached dyno plot done by an independent shop in the UK !!
At this time the second fastest with out NOS is a RMW Head running a solid 13.10!!

Just me................ trying to help, but doubt if I am! Choose the combo to your application!!

Thanks

Thumper

 

In the past 4 years there have been a few BVH's come around and all of them put out great numbers but for some odd reason when those cars with those different heads come to you they don't break 200whp. Why is that?

Also why are only RMW built (aftermarket internals, etc) and tuned MINI's making more power then cars with the same manufacture internals, different BVH which performs just as good if not better then yours, and then tuned by RMW not making those numbers.

Is that because you tune a car sub par because there aren't any of "your products" on the car?

 

Wow, as a new outsider I'm surprised at all the tension, haha. Also, as a newcomer reading the forums, I don't believe Jan would purposely de-tune anyones car. Why don't you look into the a/f curve of those "non-RMW" cars and compare the graphs to the RMW car tunes and see if you see any obvious problems with the non-RMW fuel curve before you start accusing them of this? It seems all these folks have done a lot for the mini community, and deserve a bit of decency.

 

^ Smoke and mirrors. You can totally retard timing and drop the power but at the same time show everyone a perfect A/F.

 

Wow .

Gotta love a good accusation

LB

 

I own a $40 timing light, do you? All I know is I know who I'm going towhen it comes time to tune my mini, no matter what parts are on my car.

 

There are two dyno graphs on this page, both show power gains at low and mid-range rpm with larger than stock valves.

 

Nvm I had a question but as always nothing ever gets answered when it comes to the search for pertinent empirical data. All the question would get is " Something about accusations" "WOW" "Give Jan a Call"

 

I sure do have timing light. Don't have a distributor to twist on the MINI.