Please show me your data supporting the above

 

whoa............hold on to your horses there big guy.........
what happened to "it ran what it did on that day?"
being disappointed in my car yet it ran faster on crappier tires than what the widow did..... Paul , you and Jove can't have it both ways... why compare drag tires to street tires unless it benefits your cause?????

Here are the facts........turbo car with everything in the world on it>>>>>>15.3 @ 107 (btw... this was HIS BEST TIME )

TVS with blown head gasket.......13.7@ 110mph on a non prepared backstraight of a road track

your Buttonwillow statement is about as absurd as you comparing drag slicks to street tires........


why would I? It will bug you 10x as much if I don't.... I like the latter

My thoughts are:
you slag on NAM and any dyno not done by your tuner of choice
the TVS does work and works well....... you will see soon enough
Now you want to claim Danny's 300hub as whp when it suits your game.... especially when you know it was on a different dyno......( quite a classic, I have saved it in my files for future laughs)


yes you will need a NOS kit just to spool it, that's the beauty of the TVS it's instant no NOS needed

You all can post away..... we will see you at the track where it matters
just let me know when you are coming over and we will bring the National Championship trophy so you can rub it

 

This was a genuine question I think alot of mini owners wanted to know.... is the TVS a suitable replacement for the M45 and going by your results I would have to say no - not yet. I hope you get things sorted and kudous for your achievements in pushing the envelope.

I never Slag on NAM - the amount of help and tips I have got off guys from this site has been enormous (it is a shame alot of those people don't post much anymore because of all the BS that sometimes occurs)

The only time I was ever critical of this site was when all my posts got deleted when I tried to state the fact that the RMW = Newman cam ...but we won't go there.....

As for my tuner of choice he is a local guy that runs Pulse racing in Australia, he has done most of my work and while they don't do many minis I am more than happy with the results. So I don't know what you are going on about???

Finally I am glad I made you laugh, as alot of people take themsleves way to seroius

 

Please tell me your just pulling my leg and you really do know this. A quarter mile is made up of 1320 feet, if you are spinning the tires for 300 feet of that you will have 1020 feet of full traction to reach a top speed (of course ET is what you really want), if you are spinning the tires for one thousand feet you will only have 320 feet to reach your top speed.....and so on and so on... Of course you would also have to figure in the amount of wheel spin at any given time too. Just way to many variables in that quarter mile of asphalt to be used like you want too...a dyno of sorts.

Below I have pasted a bit of an article from Hot Rod to support, I can find plenty more if you like or you can talk to the rookieist of rookie at any NHRA drag event or IHRA for that matter.... It is written about rear wheel drive but the same thing applies as far as traction front or rear...


Quote:

Drag Racing Chassis Tuning

Feb 24,2009
By Joe Pettit

Pure and simple, drag racing is an acceleration contest, not who goes the fastest. You win by being the quickest car through the measured quarter-mile, not the fastest at the end. Of course speed is important, but it is more a by-product of acceleration. Here’s some tips on how to accelerate quicker and more effectively than your opponent.
Let’s start with some simple physics. Drag racing, in fact most vehicle dynamics, are governed by Newton’s Second Law (NSL) with the basic equation, F=ma, stating the relationships of force, mass and acceleration of a body. How does this NSL formula apply to your rear-drive rod, and how can you us the factors under your control to tune for maximum acceleration?
Let’s start with some fundamentals. To accelerate your car, you’ve got to apply the force from your engine to the drive wheels, which grip the racing surface and accelerate the mass of your car. A tire’s grip is dependent on the vertical force exerted on the tire and the coefficient of friction between the racing surface and the tires’ contact patch. When you accelerate, weight transfers from the front of your vehicle to the rear. This transfer has a direct effect on the vertical force exerted on your vehicle’s tires and thus how much grip they have to accelerate your hot rod down the quarter-mile.
Understanding this equation and others, and being able to manipulate them is extremely important. This application will give you the ability to tune your machine accurately for given track conditions and/or observed vehicle behavior.
The Limits of Traction
Most hot rods have more power than the traction, at least in the lower gears. As you modify your engine to make more power, this situation gets extreme. Where you used to spin the tires in first gear, now you’re spinning them in second and third. This traction-limited acceleration can be made better or worse depending on your setup and combination. Ultimately acceleration is limited by the tires’ coefficient of friction and the vertical force, i.e., the weight on the tire and the mass you are trying to accelerate with drive thrust developed at the wheels. This is expressed in a variation of NSL (see Figure 1 at right):


The equation in Figure 1 is true because the coefficient of friction determines the magnitude of acceleration and the weight of the vehicle is mass divided by gravity. Since the tire’s vertical force changes as the chassis transfers weight, we know we have two basic systems we can manipulate to get more grip and therefore more acceleration. Getting the most from each of them is the way to quicker e.t.’s. (Note that in this article we’re not addressing the effects of aerodynamic downforce, so all weights referred to are the static weights and the weight transferred under acceleration. For more on weight transfer see the sidebar.) Stating the obvious, the way to a quicker e.t. is twofold: First, generate more grip by using a stickier tire. In drag racing, drag slicks and various D.O.T. legal drag tires are designed for this very purpose. Second, manage the weight transfer in such a way as to optimize the vertical force on the drive tires while the car is accelerating. The latter is easier said than done, but that is the craft of chassis tuning. It requires doing the math and plugging in the equations to predict the behavior of the vehicle. In other words, good chassis tuners work smarter, not harder, by knowing the influences that the various suspension components have on each other. We’ll start by going over the basic formulas used by chassis tuners, and then show how to apply them to your hot rod.



The article continues from here, but think that is enough to make the point.

 

A bit more from Auto Trader Classics:

by Bruce Caldwell
Drag Race Suspention Is All About Getting The Power To The Pavement
Horsepower, weight transfer and excellent traction are all part of winning at the dragstrip. Good traction is critical to the success of any automotive racing endeavor, but it’s ultra critical in drag racing. There’s no next lap to make up lost time. Each time you come to the starting line you have to do your best. All the horsepower in the world is useless if you can’t get it to the pavement. That’s why traction aids are so important to Mustang drag racers. Scott Boda, Assistant Director of Manufacturing at Steeda Autosports is a typical weekend warrior. His red 1990 Mustang is used for street and strip, although with 561 horsepower at the rear wheels it’s not a very practical street car. Even though Scott has 561 hp, he says any Mustang with 300 hp (at the tires) is going to have difficulty hooking up. Although Scott is in the suspension business his number one drag racing traction advice is to get sticky tires. A drag radial or a full-on racing slick is the first step for getting good dragstrip traction.

 

And a little bit from Mopar Muscle Mag on "slipping " clutches:

On Fire With Dean Skuza




Once Stewart decides what the track will take, two variables are set. One is the amount of weight added or subtracted to the primary "fingers" which are six little arms that apply pressure to the clutch at the initial launch. This is calculated via per-finger gram weight measured by half-nuts; to take three grams off (which is the weight of one half-nut) means that you will remove a total of 18 grams from the clutch. A fair total average would be approximately 90 grams total, or 15 grams per arm, with half-nuts added or removed, based on conditions.
Meanwhile, a group of pneumatic timers that will be activated by a micro-switch under the accelerator are set as well. These timers are attached to the clutch housing via pressure-fed air lines, allowing the throw-out bearing to transfer more and more horsepower to the output shaft and rear wheels by closing an air gap between the clutch discs. Secondary fingers handle this using the applied air pressure. In the case where a track is really hot or slippery, the clutch may be slipping to some extent during the entire run.
This technology has allowed drag racers to go from 0 to 320 mph through the rear tires in a quarter-mile; without the clutch slippage, the car would instantly spin the tires right off of the starting line. As the car progresses down the racetrack, more power is applied to the rear wheels via downforce and speed. John uses a metering block with a group of five air jets (like Holley carb jets), one for each line, that controls the amount of pressure that will go to the clutch during the run, while the timers are set so that they are actuated in microsecond increments. So as the car leaves the line, timer 1 will come in at .62 seconds, timer 2 at 1.48, timer 3 at 2.12, and so on, until the car is applying all 5,000-plus horsepower to the racing surface. Tire heat and growth is also critical to making this happen.

 

At least like the 034 motorsports guys you can practice most of the year and improve on your 09 results, maybe you should enter Danny's and Longboards as well then it would give your customers a real good direction to which one they want.

I'm sure everyone cant wait to see it strapped down and the figures at the dyno tuning party next weekend

 

I was referring to your drag racing data from your Mini, not something you can cut and paste from various articles and theories on drag racing. I love the way you tried to compare a clutch with a Top Fuel with a Mini.

By the way I've been involved in trying to get 1200 pump gas Hp transmitted to street tires in a 92 inch wheelbase car for a long long time. 8.20s at 170

 

Exactly what I was told you would say......at the least your predictable.

The dynamics of getting the most available horsepower to the ground applies across the board. What does the term "forward bite" mean too you?

As far as my Mini is concerned, I have no desire to waste my time drag racing it, but if you have something to add that will help me get it around the road course faster, I'm all ears!!!

 

yep, he's as predictable as the sun

the cold hard facts remain and it absolutely kills him
RMW NATIONAL CHAMPION!
Multiple track records and not just for Mini's

it's amazing how he can compare street tires to drag tires when he needs to

but then again this is coming from a guy who has drag racing accomplishments in his signature like someone actually cares.... notice that he doesn't tell you it's on nitrous......

 

And I'd bet you don't put the Nitrous too it until you've launched and gotten the car hooked up and in the higher gears so you won't blow the tires off...

 

well........ he has had 3-400 runs at the pod or so he says so he should have it figured out by now

unlike Ian who had maybe 10 runs on 280 treadware street tires to harness all of that torque?

 

MiniMarks I like to talk about facts and realworld not theories, just because someone writes something does it mean its fact and applies to you or me or more importantly to your MINI?

As for the nitrous its all in by 2nd gear, controller aren't all they cracked up to be in a limied traction vehicle.

 

With Nitrous and the ablity too use it's power when you want, aren't you able to sort of mimic this:
Quote:
This technology has allowed drag racers to go from 0 to 320 mph through the rear tires in a quarter-mile; without the clutch slippage, the car would instantly spin the tires right off of the starting line. As the car progresses down the racetrack, more power is applied to the rear wheels via downforce and speed.

 

Well the next time I bump into Austin Coil I'll tell him his facts are really just theories. If you PM me your number I'll ask him to call you so he can be enlightened....

 

So why didn't you change the head gasket overnight or at the track ?

 

roflmao.... like Webster would actually listen to someone like Austin Coil

(it's all a big conspiracy theory for Webster)

Austin Coil


Austin Coil, 56, directed John Force to his 10th straight NHRA series championship and his 12th in the last 13 seasons. It actually was the 14th NHRA Funny Car title for the Chicago native who, before joining Force in 1985, won back-to-back titles (1982-83) with his own Chi-Town Hustler entry driven by Frank Hawley. The Chi-Town Hustler, a car in which he was partnered with fellow Chicagoans John Farkonas and Pat Minick, was one of the dominant Funny Cars on the match race circuit in the 1970s. When sponsorship of the Chi-Town dried up in 1985, Force came calling with an offer that brought Coil to California. The Coil-Force collaboration has produced 106 tour victories and made Coil the Car Craft Magazine Funny Car Crew Chief of the Year for 12 straight seasons. Coil also won seven races with Hawley.

OR the Legendary Paul Webster?

 

ROTFLMAO I thought he had only two runs, didn't the first couple of runs give you an indication what to change on the stand alone or doesn't the stand alone work very well ?

So what was the ET and MPH of the other 8 runs?

 

I think you should quit now my sides are hurting to much

 

note to first time readers........

PAUL WEBSTER has re-written the world of drag racing

(at least in his own mind)

party on!

 

Austin Coil is a specialist in his field but that doesn't mean he could go and setup a low 6sec at 230 mph drag radial twin turbo car if it had no sttings in it.

I'm not saying he wouldn't suss it because he's that type of bloke but the two vehicles are so removed from themselves.

 

Not at all, its because I'm dealing with a pair of Internet drag racers, its like me cut and pasting something about Formula 1 and telling Ian where's going wrong, it so funny I need to stop for a minute and dry my eyes

Do you two appear at night at Mini Conventions doing a comedy turn?

 

All hail "THE PAUL".....

 

Yes and RMW will be next performing at the Grand Am race in Daytona, where will you be? I'll repeat something I said about drag racing a Mini a long time ago:


"W-E
D-O-N-'-T
C-A-R-E ."

 

Nice talking to you, thanks for the laughs I've enjoyed it