Drivetrain 180 Degree Thermostat Options
180 Degree Thermostat Options
Has anyone found a 180 degree themostat other than the one that M7 sells for $45?
While I have the head off of my 2006 MCS, I decided to pull the thermostat. It has a Chrysler logo on it! It got me thinking, "I bet that's the same design they've used for the last 25 years. We're talking Detroit."
I believe the Stant 13788, the same thermostat spec-ed for practically every Chrysler K-car variant from the 1980's, will work, and it's 180 degrees.
Why do you think that, you ask? Well, I looked up a replacement thermostat for the MCS on RockAuto and cross referenced it. According to RockAuto, the R53 MCS uses the same one as the Neon SRT-4. On an SRT-4 forum, lot's of folks are running the Stant 13788 or Gates or Napa equivalent.
Has anyone tried this? I can't bear to pay M7 $44 for a $5 thermostat.
While I have the head off of my 2006 MCS, I decided to pull the thermostat. It has a Chrysler logo on it! It got me thinking, "I bet that's the same design they've used for the last 25 years. We're talking Detroit."
I believe the Stant 13788, the same thermostat spec-ed for practically every Chrysler K-car variant from the 1980's, will work, and it's 180 degrees.
Why do you think that, you ask? Well, I looked up a replacement thermostat for the MCS on RockAuto and cross referenced it. According to RockAuto, the R53 MCS uses the same one as the Neon SRT-4. On an SRT-4 forum, lot's of folks are running the Stant 13788 or Gates or Napa equivalent.
Has anyone tried this? I can't bear to pay M7 $44 for a $5 thermostat.
Last edited by abarks; Jul 2, 2009 at 04:25 AM.
As long as the diameter is the same, you are good.
The fit has to be the same in the gasket or it will leak. The MINI uses a different style gasket than the SRT4, or even the old 2.2/2.5. They both use flat gaskets, not molded.
The fit has to be the same in the gasket or it will leak. The MINI uses a different style gasket than the SRT4, or even the old 2.2/2.5. They both use flat gaskets, not molded.
Yes, the 5 dollar one DOES work, but it requires modification. There is notching in the stock one that is required to fit.
Also, the 5 dollar one does not come with a gasket. The M7 unit also does not come with a gasket.
The only way to get a gasket is to purchase a new thermostat from the dealership. They do not come separately.
Also, there is a new revision to the gasket material that happened I believe in late 2006. It fixed the issue some people had with seepage.
Best option is to purchase the factory thermostat through someone like Tischer BMW and then take a dremel to the $5.00 to match them up. It is still cheaper than the M7 unit alone.
Also, the 5 dollar one does not come with a gasket. The M7 unit also does not come with a gasket.
The only way to get a gasket is to purchase a new thermostat from the dealership. They do not come separately.
Also, there is a new revision to the gasket material that happened I believe in late 2006. It fixed the issue some people had with seepage.
Best option is to purchase the factory thermostat through someone like Tischer BMW and then take a dremel to the $5.00 to match them up. It is still cheaper than the M7 unit alone.
fuel economy could be sacrificed in certain climates. There are older threads posted with questions regarding pro's/con's of the modification.
I chose to put a brand new factory unit in while I had my head off. I probably would not see any gains on a dyno, but possibly a tad cooler running motor in daily driving.
I chose to put a brand new factory unit in while I had my head off. I probably would not see any gains on a dyno, but possibly a tad cooler running motor in daily driving.
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While I had the head off of my car, I installed the Chrysler K-car thermostat. It did require a touch of grinding on the plastic thermostat housing and I did drill an air bleed hole. The whole deal only took a few minutes and cost $6 at Napa. I told them that I wanted a 180-degree thermostat for a 1987 Dodge Daytona 2.2L. It seems to be working just fine.
The steps are documented on my blog at: http://r53mini.blogspot.com/2009/07/...on-step-6.html
Oh, and no CELs so far.
The steps are documented on my blog at: http://r53mini.blogspot.com/2009/07/...on-step-6.html
Oh, and no CELs so far.
While I had the head off of my car, I installed the Chrysler K-car thermostat. It did require a touch of grinding on the plastic thermostat housing and I did drill an air bleed hole. The whole deal only took a few minutes and cost $6 at Napa. I told them that I wanted a 180-degree thermostat for a 1987 Dodge Daytona 2.2L. It seems to be working just fine.
The steps are documented on my blog at: http://r53mini.blogspot.com/2009/07/...on-step-6.html
Oh, and no CELs so far.
The steps are documented on my blog at: http://r53mini.blogspot.com/2009/07/...on-step-6.html
Oh, and no CELs so far.
Autozone has them for 9.99 just got one. 180F
by the way only 1 autozone had it in my entire area and only one. so you may have to have them order it, i got lucky. but yes m7 is wayyyyyyyyy marking the price up on a $5 part. autozone was smart and doubled their profit,. m7 gets way extra profit lol
by the way only 1 autozone had it in my entire area and only one. so you may have to have them order it, i got lucky. but yes m7 is wayyyyyyyyy marking the price up on a $5 part. autozone was smart and doubled their profit,. m7 gets way extra profit lol
Last edited by dustinhxc; Aug 4, 2009 at 09:51 AM.
Autozone has them for 9.99 just got one. 180F
by the way only 1 autozone had it in my entire area and only one. so you may have to have them order it, i got lucky. but yes m7 is wayyyyyyyyy marking the price up on a $5 part. autozone was smart and doubled their profit,. m7 gets way extra profit lol
by the way only 1 autozone had it in my entire area and only one. so you may have to have them order it, i got lucky. but yes m7 is wayyyyyyyyy marking the price up on a $5 part. autozone was smart and doubled their profit,. m7 gets way extra profit lol
I just installed my 180 yesterday, runs perfect, seems like it may even run a little smoother on the highway. especially with ac on.
180tstat for mini before and after
Intercooler Manifold 98 70 -28
Upper Coolant Hose 190 179 -11
Supercharger at Pulley Shaft Housing 178 160 -18
Head at Thermostat 174 153 -21
Idle w/ A/C On 214 185 -29
Coolant Temperature During Hard Driving 212 180 -32
Dustinhxc: thanks for posting those numbers.
I have been running the 180 degree for a month. The only issue I have is that I do get a CEL after a couple of days. Now, my commute to work is really short, so it could be that, with a longer drive, it would get hot enough to keep from throwing a code.
Personally, the code doesn't bother me in the least. When you clear it, it stays off long enough to pass inspection. Every now and then, I pull my cheap-o code reader out the glove box and make sure there aren't any codes that should concern me.
The reason I went with the 180 is that I track my MCS quite a bit. I blew a piston at VIR in June. While I had the engine disassembled, I thought, what the heck. Cooling things off can't hurt when you're out flogging the car on a regular basis.
I have been running the 180 degree for a month. The only issue I have is that I do get a CEL after a couple of days. Now, my commute to work is really short, so it could be that, with a longer drive, it would get hot enough to keep from throwing a code.
Personally, the code doesn't bother me in the least. When you clear it, it stays off long enough to pass inspection. Every now and then, I pull my cheap-o code reader out the glove box and make sure there aren't any codes that should concern me.
The reason I went with the 180 is that I track my MCS quite a bit. I blew a piston at VIR in June. While I had the engine disassembled, I thought, what the heck. Cooling things off can't hurt when you're out flogging the car on a regular basis.
So you are running cooler.......what evidence do you have that the temps are actually optimum? Cooler is not always better, especially when we have an ECU like we do.
I can tell you that folks that race cars will look for water temps around 210-220 and about the same for oil temps. Why would you want to run cooler? What benefits do you think you are getting?
I can tell you that folks that race cars will look for water temps around 210-220 and about the same for oil temps. Why would you want to run cooler? What benefits do you think you are getting?
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