Ya it is, but I problebly would have ended up with a tool anyhow but like I said I did not buy the header to look at a light and have to clear codes. I was going to Autozone to get the codes cleared, and doing it so often, that everytime I hit the door the guy was reaching for the scanner, so I thought that it was time that I just up and got one

 

I'm getting my bung put on Wednesday. Keeping my fingers crossed that it will be a good fix

 

Very nice, keep us in the loop. I'm still waiting for Jan to send me the replacement header hopefully he will get it on the way this week. Were you getting the same p2096 code and the SES light?

 

WOW...SO is Jan gonna replace all headers thats throwing codes? thats brilliant after sales service if you ask me...

 

No, I had the P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

 

Yes, as he should, it is his product and he is a stand-up guy and a good ventor and I would expect nothing less from any other ventor on NAM

 

I am right there with you. This is getting old real fast.

 

Had bung installed this morning. 280 miles later, no SES light. Keeping fingers crossed

 

rocket-how many miles do you have on your odom.?
I hope this works for me.
I've had the j bung on for a month,and it will throw a code under load in 5th & 6th gear.
After 2 or 3 starts, it goes off.
Surface street driving in 1st-4th(high rpm's) is "lightless"

 

Sorry for the long reply:

One solution you guys may not have tried is go to your dealer and have the addaptives reset. Now you can not reset these with an autozone or $2,000 scanner/code reader. It is a BWM / Mini Dealer only ODB II tool that cost around $15,G's. (good luck finding one on eBay)

Problem:
I have had all of the codes you guys are talking about and even the dreaded P2096.

Background:
Everything on my car (See Sig below) has been professionally installed by Eric & Ralph @ Helix. Eric has even double tripple checked, tested, swapped O2's and gone over every gasket and his j-bung weld and everything is perfect but,nothing would clear the P2096.
*Note* Jan/RMW and Eric/Helix have provided excellent service and stand behind everything the sell and install.

Resolution:
At the advice of Jan and Eric I went to the local Mini dealer near Helix. (MOTML) I was completely upfront and honest and told them what I have had done to my car and by who. They said no problem with my situstion and said give us a few minutes and we will have a tech look at it. (I am thinking yup I am sure you will and it will be billable work at $85.00 or higher) which I am ok with since it is just a code.

Within 10 minitues a tech came out took my car hooked it up to the Mini 15k code reader. They read tested and cleared the code and reset all the adaptives that Jan and Eric had advised me to have reset.
The Sr. tech that came back with my car said he has seen this many times and after all the modifications and said The ECU locks (hard saves) the codes and they can not be cleared without the Mini factory tool. They have had this same problem on a few of their own "Tech Modded" cars that they race. The adaptives "as they expalined to me" are set at the factory at say default and adjust and are monitored as the car runs it life. Now with all the changes I made the system freaks out and can not correct / adapt to the changes and starts poping codes. Some of these codes can be cleared but the best thing to do is have a dealer reset the Adaptives in the ECU and clear all hard stored codes.

Cost:
Zip Nada zilch. (for Me) The Service aManger and tech said since I was honest and up front they had no problems helping me out at No Charge.
They tossed me my keys and said nice ride have a great day. They also said they knew Eric and Ralph at Helix and they said they are stand up guys and they where more than happy to help out a fellow Mini shop. Now thats DEALER Customer Service!

Hope this helps everyone out

 

I am waiting with zen-like patience with you. Keep me in the loop.

 

Yes I've had the adaptives reset a couple of times and the P2096 code stays away for a couple of days and then comes back. As of now I can turn the light off by clearing the p2096 fault but of course can not reset the pending (adaptive) p2096 code. So now even that I clear the light, after one start and shut down cycle the light comes back on with a p2096 fault and a p2096 pending fault, so it's just a never ending cycle How long has it been since you cleared the adaptives? Let us know if the code comes back

 

I know we are going to get these codes remedied. I saw some people making mention of these codes in another thread....of course making fun of the unit. I am not saying I like having these codes BUT I know we will get them fixed AND I wouldnt want ANY other header. I absolutely love it!

 

Why not any other header? Issit because its branded "RMW"?

 

Seriously? Look at my sig. I have parts from MANY companies. I did my research before buying this header. It gave me what I wanted..MORE power and a great sounding car. The miltek and janspeed headers are over $1000 each. The header is a GREAT header. There is not another on the market that I want. This vendor is making it right with me and others.Not many vendors call you personally or give ther cell humbers or call you back on weekends. I have dealt with some other vendors on refunds/return/fixes and for the most part it has been like pulling teeth.

I am sorry you seem to have an issue with RMW, that is your problem not mine. Thanks for sharing though. It kinda made me chuckle

 

+1....agree fully

 

Nope, thats where your wrong dude...Im have no issue at all with RMW..none at all actually...

Just asking whether its the RMW brand that makes you guys want it, even thou its producing the codes you're talking about. I have no doubt that its a wonderful header (it was actually my first choice before I decided to go with Janspeed).

p.s. Janspeed is only GBP310 OR USD$400ish. And it showed similar sounds and performance to most USD$800-1000 headers out there. The reason I got it is cause of cheaper price (YES - I ADMIT IT IM CHEAP hehehe) and had no history of showing the dreaded codes you guys are talking about. So, no need to get touchy2 ; )

AND if Jan really replaces everyone of the older headers to the updated one then salute and kudos goes to Jan. Honestly not good for business but it will show Jan's commitment to making the best MINI products dat he possibly can.

 

have u seen the RMW header up close?its a thing of art...the construction is flawless and the parts are top rate...u think its bad business to replace headers?jan stands by his products 110% and it shows...thats why he gets alot of repeat business

 

i had the fuel filter replace back when my mini had i think 86k...now im over 103k

 

Im sure it is a work of art...I have full respect with RMW.

 

id gladly pay 800 for this header than 5-600 hundred for some other companies header that seriously looks like an ebay rip off...just sayin

 

Yes it is a work of stainless art.

Fully Tig welded

3/8" thick SS water jet cut flange

T-304 1 5/8" Equal length primaries

SS flex joint

Race inspired 4-1 fluted merged collector with x-cone internal design.

200 cell SS cat



The primaries are fully Tig welded on the inside only with just small welds on the outside of the flange. Welding the primaries to the flange both on the inside and outside only 3/8" apart is not good idea as you now super heat the thin stainless twice. This can cause the SS to become brittle and opens the door to cracking over time.












Both the race and street headers utilize the same fluted tapered merge type collector. The internal X-cone or bullet is another reason RMW headers are a step above the rest.

 

NICE!!!!!!!! too bad about the codes....hope you guys get it sorted..I really do..

 

 

You put on a pretty mean sales pitch, LB.
I do agree that it is a sweet looking header, but it sucks that it trips codes.