Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain RMW Water/Meth kit

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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:40 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Trickle X
BA Jan, BA......nice looking tanks as well...I will be in the market very soon to add to my system...

thanks Cole,

how is the beast coming?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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It's sitting on the lift as I type....its finally progressing.....its weird to work on your own car again after working on everyone else's!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Trickle X
It's sitting on the lift as I type....its finally progressing.....its weird to work on your own car again after working on everyone else's!

I hear you , my TVS has been sitting for awhile now waiting on the newest W2a.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works
I hear you , my TVS has been sitting for awhile now waiting on the newest W2a.

Funny that, I seem to be in the same boat...
 
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Isn't W2A much less important/valuable with spraying water/meth?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 06:41 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
Isn't W2A much less important/valuable with spraying water/meth?

It can never hurt to lower the inlet temps. The main reason for the TVS1320 is space. Once you see how big this blower is you will understand

We are talking turbo numbers without the lag
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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Definitely lower is always better when it comes to inlet temps. I guess where I was going is that inlet temp cooling $ for $ is best spent first for the meth kit, and then for W2A. Not implying W2A has no value, certainly it does, just not as much as the meth kit.

Did I get that right?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 08:15 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
Definitely lower is always better when it comes to inlet temps. I guess where I was going is that inlet temp cooling $ for $ is best spent first for the meth kit, and then for W2A. Not implying W2A has no value, certainly it does, just not as much as the meth kit.

Did I get that right?
I would say this is correct.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 08:29 AM
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Ok then.
Also, can you share a few pics of the the tank/pump combo in the back of a MINI, and then again of what is under the bonnet and where optimally placed? For example, I am expecting the nozzle to be mounted in the horn somehow directed at the throttle body, but there is not really a good place to actually mount it to be spray perfectly downstream.

Also, a quick dismount system as you describe above is very cool.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:01 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
Ok then.
Also, can you share a few pics of the the tank/pump combo in the back of a MINI, and then again of what is under the bonnet and where optimally placed? For example, I am expecting the nozzle to be mounted in the horn somehow directed at the throttle body, but there is not really a good place to actually mount it to be spray perfectly downstream.

Also, a quick dismount system as you describe above is very cool.





 

Last edited by Revolution Mini Works; Apr 3, 2009 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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OK thanks for the pics. That tank pic is definitely in a MINI, but diff from the red one. So, is the red one just an upgrade option or something, which one will be in your kit?

The nozzle location is as expected, and obviously works very well given your data, but no real optimal place to put it given the OEM horn configuration.

One more, Is the pump noisy? Can you hear it in the cabin?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:22 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
OK thanks for the pics. That tank pic is definitely in a MINI, but diff from the red one. So, is the red one just an upgrade option or something, which one will be in your kit?

The nozzle location is as expected, and obviously works very well given your data, but no real optimal place to put it given the OEM horn configuration.

One more, Is the pump noisy? Can you hear it in the cabin?
what we are trying to show people is we have the full solution, how much you want to spend on upgrades is up to the customer

depends upon how much you turn up the stereo
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:23 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
The nozzle location is as expected, and obviously works very well given your data, but no real optimal place to put it given the OEM horn configuration.
What evidence do you have that it's *not* optimal, or that the nozzle needs to spray "perfectly downstream"? There's a lotta air moving at a pretty darn good clip past that nozzle when it's spraying... and it's really just misting... between the airflow and the heat, I would expect all the mist to be taken-up readily and quickly evaporated to yield the temp drops we're seeing...

I'm still learning about this stuff too - so if there's lots of data and learning on ideal nozzle placement (other than pre/post SC, etc. which has already been discussed) I'm all ears!
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:36 AM
  #64  
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Ok Paul, to be more accurate, I should have stated 'theoretically not optimal', given that I do not have the data.

In theory, you want to be spraying 100% downstream and expending 100% of the cool mist into the flowing air charge, you also want it to be homogeneous, so you may not want it to be too close to the intake, allowing more mixing time. Unless of course, you are going to place a nozzle in the intake runner for each cylinder.

Back to the nozzle placement, having any amount of the mist hit the opposite side of the horn instead of being 100% swept away and mixed with the air charge would 'theoretically' not be optimal.

There, that is more accurately stated.

Also, I do not have a solution, short of the four nozzles mentioned above, this is the best location, while still not being theoretically optimal.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works
what we are trying to show people is we have the full solution, how much you want to spend on upgrades is up to the customer

depends upon how much you turn up the stereo
Got it, thanks....

Since red is the fastest color, that one has got to be better
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 09:46 AM
  #66  
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The problem with these damn cars is they are just way too physically extant and not nearly theoretical enough.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #67  
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Though not ideal, I was wondering how well the system will run on meth based washer fluid since it's more readily available in a pinch?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:27 AM
  #68  
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Depends on the fluid you use... there are several places on the net with lists of various washer fluid and what they contain - some are pretty just ONLY water and meth - and some of the very "coldest rated" fluids are mixed at a ratio that work well in other systems. Others have dyes, glycol, etc. in them that you may not want to pump into your engine... I'll leave it to Jan to specify what he'll support / warrant in HIS system.

You can request the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for any washer fluid, and find out what's in there...
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:38 AM
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There are many variables loaded in that question. The washer fluid varies by area of the country. In CA it's hard to find straight mix, it usually has some detergents in it. Ideal jetting also changes with different mixes(ratios) as well, based on AFR's.
Even if you get VP brand meth, M1 is pure, M3 has lubricants in it, and I think M5 has lubricants and some nitro in it. Check with you manufacturer to see the compatibilities of different substances in your system.

Personally, I wouldn't want to put any soap through my engine out of one of those washer mixes. Be sure you know whats in the bottle before you put it in.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by big howe
Personally, I wouldn't want to put any soap through my engine out of one of those washer mixes. Be sure you know whats in the bottle before you put it in.
Amen
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 12:17 PM
  #71  
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Just for my understanding....
Pure meth is quiet toxic, just very small dosis can be very dangerous.
Is there really pure meth in the washer mixes or is it ethanol like in europe?

Jan, the price is quite OK for the system!
I use the frontlight washer tank and it last at least one gas tank long, so a external tank is not imperative.
Tell about the way you will realize the remote tunes?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMick
Just for my understanding....
Pure meth is quiet toxic, just very small dosis can be very dangerous.
Is there really pure meth in the washer mixes or is it ethanol like in europe
Lots of the winter mixes here contain methanol. Really. Like I said before.

 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:13 AM
  #73  
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Guys please wear safety glasses and protective gloves when handle with methanol!!

Look what Wikipedia tell us about the toxicity of methanol:

Health and safety


Toxicity

Methanol is extremely toxic. If ingested, as little as 10mg can cause permanent blindness and as little as 60mg can result in death. Because of its similarities to ethanol (the alcohol in beverages), it is often difficult, if not impossible to tell the difference between the two (such is the case with denatured alcohol). Methanol is toxic by two mechanisms. Firstly, methanol (whether it enters the body by ingestion, inhalation, or absorption through the skin) can be fatal due to its CNS depressant properties in the same manner as ethanol poisoning. Secondly, in a process of toxication, it is metabolised to formic acid (which is present as the formate ion) via formaldehyde in a process initiated by the enzyme alcohol dehydrogenase in the liver. The reaction to formate proceeds completely, with no detectable formaldehyde remaining.[2]. Formate is toxic because it inhibits mitochondrial cytochrome c oxidase, causing the symptoms of hypoxia at cellular level, and also causing metabolic acidosis among a variety of other metabolic disturbances[3]. One of the common symptoms seen in methanol poisoning is permanent blindness by destruction of the optic nerve.[4] Fetal tissue will not tolerate methanol. If methanol has been ingested, a doctor should be contacted immediately. The usual fatal dose is 100–125 ml (4 fl oz). Toxic effects take hours to start, and effective antidotes can often prevent permanent damage. This is treated using ethanol or fomepizole. It is in fact true that alcoholic beverages can act as an antidote for methanol poisoning if enough of the beverage is drunk. This is because they contain ethanol, which offsets the breakdown of the methanol, allowing it to leave the body unchanged. [5] Either of these drugs acts to slow down the action of alcohol dehydrogenase on methanol by means of competitive inhibition, so that it is excreted by the kidneys rather than being transformed into toxic metabolites.
The initial symptoms of methanol intoxication are those of central nervous system depression: headache, dizziness, nausea, lack of coordination, confusion, drowsiness, and with sufficiently large doses, unconsciousness and death. The initial symptoms of methanol exposure are usually less severe than the symptoms resulting from the ingestion of a similar quantity of ethanol.
Once the initial symptoms have passed, a second set of symptoms arises, 10 to as much as 30 hours after the initial exposure to methanol, including blurring or complete loss of vision and acidosis. These symptoms result from the accumulation of toxic levels of formate in the bloodstream, and may progress to death by respiratory failure. The ester derivatives of methanol do not share this toxicity.
Ethanol is sometimes denatured (adulterated), and thus made undrinkable, by the addition of methanol. The result is known as methylated spirit or "meths" (UK use). (The latter should not be confused with meth, a common U.S. abbreviation for methamphetamine.)
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 07:28 AM
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Wow, scary stuff, thanks for the education MadMick.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 07:32 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by mini_racer
Wow, scary stuff, thanks for the education MadMick.

that's why people use 50/50 most of the time, no hazmat shipping
 
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