Drivetrain I can't get my PSI higher!
I can't get my PSI higher!
Wondering maybe one of you have the solution to this?
After I got my car tuned I was boosting around 13PSI according to the boost gauge. It then dipped down to 10PSI after I sent the car to get some cam sensor checked. I thought it was then a slipping belt and I changed the belt - the car feels as if it running fine, but I still can't seem to get more than 10PSI.
I took off the intercooler and checked the tube that runs to the boost sensor and it seems fine as well. What do you think the problem could be?
After I got my car tuned I was boosting around 13PSI according to the boost gauge. It then dipped down to 10PSI after I sent the car to get some cam sensor checked. I thought it was then a slipping belt and I changed the belt - the car feels as if it running fine, but I still can't seem to get more than 10PSI.
I took off the intercooler and checked the tube that runs to the boost sensor and it seems fine as well. What do you think the problem could be?
Only thing I can't/haven't checked is the bypass valve. How do I check that? The intercooler couplers are fine and is definitely not leaking anything.
I'm running a 17% SCP.
I'm running a 17% SCP.
Good luck! Let me know what the outcome is? I might go the same route then.
I bought the bypass valve early on. I don't yet have a s/c pulley, however, I noticed a difference with just the valve right away. I hope it makes a difference for you all. For me, it was a great part for the money. It is a pain in the *** to put in. You have to remove the IC tube on the drivers side. But it didn't take too long.
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I bought the bypass valve early on. I don't yet have a s/c pulley, however, I noticed a difference with just the valve right away. I hope it makes a difference for you all. For me, it was a great part for the money. It is a pain in the *** to put in. You have to remove the IC tube on the drivers side. But it didn't take too long.
Thanks Jan, how will I know if my BPV is toast?
take it out and make sure it's shut completely, if not adjust it closed
if it is closed all the way, wire it shut and go take the car out for a quick spin and if the boost is now higher your BPV was bad
Will do! Thanks Jan
i changed my bpv just beacuse i thought i had a boost leak ,wich i didnt turns out there was something wrong with the 16% pulley now as far as hp i didnt gain anything but i did notice boost biuld a little easier with less throttle. for the price i dont think its a bad upgrade
i changed my bpv just beacuse i thought i had a boost leak ,wich i didnt turns out there was something wrong with the 16% pulley now as far as hp i didnt gain anything but i did notice boost biuld a little easier with less throttle. for the price i dont think its a bad upgrade
Ok I installed my bypass valve myself this afternoon. I can't say that I really feel THAT much of a difference. Perhaps I'm numb 
How ever, my boost gauge is still reading similar PSI in boost. Perhaps 0.1-0.2 higher. Did I do something wrong?

How ever, my boost gauge is still reading similar PSI in boost. Perhaps 0.1-0.2 higher. Did I do something wrong?
The most common failure of the BPV is a broken spring.
This is easy to determine, put a hand down the back of the intercooler output duct, actuate the BPV lever with a finger, if it moves easily, and/or makes a tink sound, it is a broken spring; a really bad one will not return to the original position. For a comparison, move the lever another MCS to feel for the amount of resistance is normal.
Another failure from a torn diaphragm or loose vacuum hose, will not allow the butterfly plate to open, and the first symptom is a decline in mileage.
I had one that exhibited an occasional 32k flat spot. I adjusted the butterfly plate, and because movement was a rough, checked the spring, which was fine although somewhat weak; reinstalled it but had no change in behavior. After replacing it with a newer version, which has lasted longer than any of the previous parts, problem solved, but much later I discovered the bad one only needed a drop of lube on the shaft end to free it up and operate smoothly.
If you can see light around an unadjusted BPV’s butterfly plate and blow into it from the top, you can strain your cheeks but very little air will pass, so complete occlusion does not offer a great advantage, replacing a faulty unit does. I manually adjust mine to a point of almost complete closure to avoid possible plate-to-bore binding later on.
I know you said you checked the intercooler bellows, but I’ve seen a clamp installed upside down
and it appeared ok, even the bolts felt tight, however it was loosing more than a few psi.
Last edited by k-huevo; Jan 2, 2009 at 02:42 PM.
An easy thing to check -- make sure the hose isn't slipping off the fuel pressure regulator. Mine had worked loose a bit and boost dropped from 18-19 psi max to less than 10. It also tended to spike and then drop rapidly as the fitting leaked under the pressure.
. I too think this is where the problem may be from. I'm actually thinking about replacing the entire transparent tubing that came with the boost gauge in case there are any holes that have been pierced by accident while installing certain parts at the workshop.
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