Yeah so I purchased this work of art about a month ago. Finally this columbus weekend I will be using my brothers lift to swap out the oem. I have a fairly stock 2006 JCW car does anyone think I will be seeing gains before a tune? Secondly can someone please help a brother out with some picture instructions and TQ specs?? I can't wait to get this bad boy in. But I know someone had taken pics of the install right? I am just concerned about unforseen issues w the install. Thanks in advance for the help I really appreciate it.

 

I used this to do my header install. It is not the RMW, but it is the same procedure. If you have the race version. I know that you will need to lengthen the O2 sensor wires though.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ead.php?t=5403

 

If you will be on a lift the install will be pretty easy. It'll be a little tricky getting past the sway bar. But with the heat shield removed it will wiggle right in. I didn't bother with torque wrench. The fasteners are small, and the torque is light anyways.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ead.php?t=5403

 

I forgot to paste the link, thanks cartar452

 

Hey thanks guys, so does anyone think I will loose power down low when I do the swap or will I see power through the whole RPM band? Someone told me the tQ on the cyl head was 18ft lbs can anyone confirm it. I really don't wanna play games with the cyl head. I'll make sure to throw up some pics later.

 

Yes, that is the correct torque value. Apply anti-seize on the bolts, tighten the inner two bolts first, moving outwards in secession, re-torque in the same order after a few heat cycles when the head is cold, tighten again after several more heat cycles, and continually re-visit until no movement is felt.

A few tips to make the job easier: lift the vehicle high enough to move freely underneath, remove the front left heat shield, support the header’s cat, disconnect the cat back exhaust, remove the outer header flange bolts and install two studs (the same ones used on the intake manifold) in the outside holes; when doing this solo the studs will hold the original header while you get under the vehicle to extract it and provide a place to hang the new gasket while passing the new header through from the bottom and something to hold the header flange in place while placing support for the header underneath. Move back up top and add nuts to the studs to keep it all lined up while the bolts are started. I keep the outer studs instead of replacing with bolts and use lock washers in addition to nuts.

 

Thanks it souns like it shouldn't take me any more than a couple of hours