Drivetrain Clutch dilemma - opinions needed
Clutch dilemma - opinions needed
So, I’m fast approaching needing a new clutch after 67k. The clutch seems fine, but the release bearing is creaking in an increasingly disturbing way, so I figure I’ll pop in a new clutch and a Quaife while I’m at it.
My dilemma is whether to go stock again, or to go for a lightweight flywheel and a CM stage 2 clutch. The car is a daily driver, with occasional track time (3 or 4 times a year), and I live in a hilly area of Seattle - hence the dilemma. The potential chatter I think I can live with, but I’m concerned about losing drivability, especially on hills.
Anyone out there live either in Seattle, or somewhere comparable with the combination of hills and frequent wet weather/occasional snow, that has done a lightweight FW that can give me their opinion?
My dilemma is whether to go stock again, or to go for a lightweight flywheel and a CM stage 2 clutch. The car is a daily driver, with occasional track time (3 or 4 times a year), and I live in a hilly area of Seattle - hence the dilemma. The potential chatter I think I can live with, but I’m concerned about losing drivability, especially on hills.
Anyone out there live either in Seattle, or somewhere comparable with the combination of hills and frequent wet weather/occasional snow, that has done a lightweight FW that can give me their opinion?
I am getting my Quaife installed on the 10th. I am doing the CM FX200 and the CM Flywheel at the same time! Basically exactly what you described. I live in CA and we have plenty of hills out here, but not the harsh weather. I'll let you know my opinion both initial and after a while if you'd like. Just remind me or PM me.
Eric
Eric
Same thing happend to me. Clutch is semi okay but I have a bad pressure plate. I am getting CM stage 2 clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate installed on wednesday. I was told that clutchmaster is much better quality than OEM so I did not mind spending the extra cash. The stage two kid is pretty much like a OEM feel. It will grab better if you need it to and it will last you much longer. However, you will feel the diffrence in the lighter flywheel.
I would go with stock clutch. My friend used a CM clutch in his S4, instead of an RS4 clutch, and ended up having to change it in only about 6 months (not a super high horsepower either). OEM will last much better against aftermarket clutches.....unless you are putting down lots of HP
I would go with stock clutch. My friend used a CM clutch in his S4, instead of an RS4 clutch, and ended up having to change it in only about 6 months (not a super high horsepower either). OEM will last much better against aftermarket clutches.....unless you are putting down lots of HP
Replace everything...including the flywheel which is more likely your problem. A lighter flywheel will be trickier to pull out it, but you will get use to it. CM is far better than stock in build quality. Just chose a setup that supports you power requirements & you will be fine.
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I got the car back with the new CM clutch and flywheel. I do have to waite for the brake in period to be done with so I notice any real change. If you do not like chattering and clunking below 2500rmp, then do not get ligther parts.
However, my problem turned out to be a bearing that was ripped in pieces and was a defected part. My OEM clutch and flywheel are in perfect shape. Since I already had payed for the labor and the car was taken apart, I figured why not fork out the extra $850ish for a new CM clutch and flywheel. I will sell my old clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel for a decent price just in case if anybody is interested.
However, my problem turned out to be a bearing that was ripped in pieces and was a defected part. My OEM clutch and flywheel are in perfect shape. Since I already had payed for the labor and the car was taken apart, I figured why not fork out the extra $850ish for a new CM clutch and flywheel. I will sell my old clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel for a decent price just in case if anybody is interested.
Would somebody PLEASE post a picture of these throw out bearings that are the subject of so many complaints, including mine? Is the problem the bearing, the throw-out fork, the sleeve, exactly what?
Last edited by JAB 67; Sep 16, 2008 at 01:33 AM. Reason: typo
I REALLY hope my FX200 lasts longer then that!
I just had mine installed last week, and as of now I have only good things to say about it. The pedal pressure is actually LIGHTER then stock, then engagement point is MUCH better defined, and it can supposedly hold more torque...and Kevlar is SUPPOSED to last longer?
I haven't been hard on the clutch at all and I do already have ~ 500 miles on it, everything below 3000rpm. But a good 250-300 of that is highway so I'm continuing to allow it break in time until my track day next weekend when it'll get a real work out.
Jim, did you FX200 fail due to the Kevlar glazing thus not being able to recover? Or was the material actually all gone?
Eric
I just had mine installed last week, and as of now I have only good things to say about it. The pedal pressure is actually LIGHTER then stock, then engagement point is MUCH better defined, and it can supposedly hold more torque...and Kevlar is SUPPOSED to last longer?
I haven't been hard on the clutch at all and I do already have ~ 500 miles on it, everything below 3000rpm. But a good 250-300 of that is highway so I'm continuing to allow it break in time until my track day next weekend when it'll get a real work out.
Jim, did you FX200 fail due to the Kevlar glazing thus not being able to recover? Or was the material actually all gone?
Eric
I REALLY hope my FX200 lasts longer then that!
I just had mine installed last week, and as of now I have only good things to say about it. The pedal pressure is actually LIGHTER then stock, then engagement point is MUCH better defined, and it can supposedly hold more torque...and Kevlar is SUPPOSED to last longer?
I haven't been hard on the clutch at all and I do already have ~ 500 miles on it, everything below 3000rpm. But a good 250-300 of that is highway so I'm continuing to allow it break in time until my track day next weekend when it'll get a real work out.
Jim, did you FX200 fail due to the Kevlar glazing thus not being able to recover? Or was the material actually all gone?
Eric
I just had mine installed last week, and as of now I have only good things to say about it. The pedal pressure is actually LIGHTER then stock, then engagement point is MUCH better defined, and it can supposedly hold more torque...and Kevlar is SUPPOSED to last longer?
I haven't been hard on the clutch at all and I do already have ~ 500 miles on it, everything below 3000rpm. But a good 250-300 of that is highway so I'm continuing to allow it break in time until my track day next weekend when it'll get a real work out.
Jim, did you FX200 fail due to the Kevlar glazing thus not being able to recover? Or was the material actually all gone?
Eric
Jim
My clutch is also on its death throes after 53k miles - it whines and whistles every time the clutch pedal is depressed - sent it to the shop with just the CM FX200 kit - probably not a good idea to install it with the stock flywheel, but I don't have a choice. BTW - what is everyone paying for labor install?
David
2004 Cooper S
David
2004 Cooper S
Jeremy
Are getting sounds like this that I am getting? I only have going on 13000 miles (clutch noise started at 3500) and is getting replaced in a few weeks
The clutch sounds starts around 1:48...that tranny noise is actually normal as frightening as that is (confirmed at 2 dealers with a ridealong in other new coopers)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwsY4Orvu7E
The clutch sounds starts around 1:48...that tranny noise is actually normal as frightening as that is (confirmed at 2 dealers with a ridealong in other new coopers)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwsY4Orvu7E
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