Drivetrain Spark Plug review
Spark Plug review
Hello All -
Here's a little BTDT with some cheap alternatives to the BKR7EQUP JCW plugs.
First here's what the part number means:
B: 14mm thread
K: Hex Size 5/8" projected tip
R: Resistor type
7: Heat Range 7
E: Thread Reach 19mm, gasketed plug
Q: 4-ground electrode
U: Semi-surface discharge
P: Premium Platinum.
Using that information, you can omit the fancy features and find an acceptable plug that is much more common... and cheaper!! The NGK BKR7E (or BKR7ES or BKR7ES-11) are all acceptable single-electrode alternatives for the expensive and hard-to-find JCW plugs. The good news here is that these plugs will probably be in stock at your local parts store for around $2 each. They seem to be the magical plugs.... not only are they from a Honda fitment, they are also the inexpensive plug of choice for forced-induction VW fitments.... 8v, 16v, ABA, 1.8t, 20v 5-cyl, 30v bi-turbo, etc.... I used them with great success in my S4 and know a number of FI VW freaks who swear by them. I rode in a 400bhp 16vt Mk2 that scared the bejeezus out of me running these plugs.
I found that for the bulk of the Mini's powerband, they make no noticeable difference over the $8-each special order BKR7EQUP and at $2 each you can afford to replace them 4 times as often. HOWEVER!
At very low rpm and medium load situations (such as pulling out of a blind driveway) they lose a bit of throttle response. I don't believe they work as well down here for the more gentle duties of daily driving.
Another factor: changing plugs when you have an OEM intercooler is super-easy... however with an aftermarket unit, you may have to remove the intercooler to access the plugs. This is not particularly easy if you have silicone intercooler couplers. So, with a longer service life in mind, the extra $6/plug might be worth the convenience factor of not having to remove the intercooler nearly as often.
For these reasons I will call the single-electrode copper plugs from the BKR7E series an acceptable alternative to the BKR7EQUP but rate the JCW plugs the plug-of-choice.
Here's a little BTDT with some cheap alternatives to the BKR7EQUP JCW plugs.
First here's what the part number means:
B: 14mm thread
K: Hex Size 5/8" projected tip
R: Resistor type
7: Heat Range 7
E: Thread Reach 19mm, gasketed plug
Q: 4-ground electrode
U: Semi-surface discharge
P: Premium Platinum.
Using that information, you can omit the fancy features and find an acceptable plug that is much more common... and cheaper!! The NGK BKR7E (or BKR7ES or BKR7ES-11) are all acceptable single-electrode alternatives for the expensive and hard-to-find JCW plugs. The good news here is that these plugs will probably be in stock at your local parts store for around $2 each. They seem to be the magical plugs.... not only are they from a Honda fitment, they are also the inexpensive plug of choice for forced-induction VW fitments.... 8v, 16v, ABA, 1.8t, 20v 5-cyl, 30v bi-turbo, etc.... I used them with great success in my S4 and know a number of FI VW freaks who swear by them. I rode in a 400bhp 16vt Mk2 that scared the bejeezus out of me running these plugs.
I found that for the bulk of the Mini's powerband, they make no noticeable difference over the $8-each special order BKR7EQUP and at $2 each you can afford to replace them 4 times as often. HOWEVER!
At very low rpm and medium load situations (such as pulling out of a blind driveway) they lose a bit of throttle response. I don't believe they work as well down here for the more gentle duties of daily driving.
Another factor: changing plugs when you have an OEM intercooler is super-easy... however with an aftermarket unit, you may have to remove the intercooler to access the plugs. This is not particularly easy if you have silicone intercooler couplers. So, with a longer service life in mind, the extra $6/plug might be worth the convenience factor of not having to remove the intercooler nearly as often.
For these reasons I will call the single-electrode copper plugs from the BKR7E series an acceptable alternative to the BKR7EQUP but rate the JCW plugs the plug-of-choice.
i just went through talking to ngk about 1 step colder plugs for a modified mcs.
they originally said that the only colder single electrode plug was the v-power ZFR7F-11, which i subsequently bought.
after i got them, i noticed thay the tip extends about .15" farther into the combustion camber than the stock 4 prong plugs and the denso IK20s that I've also tried. NGK then expressed concern about this extra length, but since i had already tried their stock heat range ZFR6IX-11 without hitting the piston, then said go ahead and use them, but regap them to .032." they also changed their mind and said they had a colder iridium plug BKR7EIX.
i regapped the ZFR7F-11 and put them in for my recent jan tune.
i noticed an immediate change in the exhaust note when i put those plugs in, but since i had already thrown some engine codes right after an obx/injector install, i didn't know what to make of it.
after the jan tune, the more subdued exhaust note and less run on burble continued with these plugs.
as a science experiment, i dropped in Denso IK22s last weekend. Ok, i know i'll get reamed over butt dyno opinions, but these make a noticeable difference in sound (crisper & louder, more burble) and the car pulls better, no question, all the way from idle. (I noticed this same change years ago when I went from 2 year old stock plugs to new Denso IK20s, but since there was an additonal variable of old vs. new plugs, I didn't chalk up all the change up to the Densos. Now I do.)
YMMV, just my findings.
If you want a brand new set of the ZFR7Fs, a 100 mile old set of ZFR7Fs, and a 400 mile old set of ZFR6IX-11s, for pennies on the dollar, let me know.
they originally said that the only colder single electrode plug was the v-power ZFR7F-11, which i subsequently bought.
after i got them, i noticed thay the tip extends about .15" farther into the combustion camber than the stock 4 prong plugs and the denso IK20s that I've also tried. NGK then expressed concern about this extra length, but since i had already tried their stock heat range ZFR6IX-11 without hitting the piston, then said go ahead and use them, but regap them to .032." they also changed their mind and said they had a colder iridium plug BKR7EIX.
i regapped the ZFR7F-11 and put them in for my recent jan tune.
i noticed an immediate change in the exhaust note when i put those plugs in, but since i had already thrown some engine codes right after an obx/injector install, i didn't know what to make of it.
after the jan tune, the more subdued exhaust note and less run on burble continued with these plugs.
as a science experiment, i dropped in Denso IK22s last weekend. Ok, i know i'll get reamed over butt dyno opinions, but these make a noticeable difference in sound (crisper & louder, more burble) and the car pulls better, no question, all the way from idle. (I noticed this same change years ago when I went from 2 year old stock plugs to new Denso IK20s, but since there was an additonal variable of old vs. new plugs, I didn't chalk up all the change up to the Densos. Now I do.)
YMMV, just my findings.
If you want a brand new set of the ZFR7Fs, a 100 mile old set of ZFR7Fs, and a 400 mile old set of ZFR6IX-11s, for pennies on the dollar, let me know.
Last edited by flyboy2160; Jun 12, 2008 at 06:46 AM.
Does anyone have any MINI dyno numbers on those E3 plugs I have seen on HorsePower TV ? They did some runs on a small block comparing this plug to a four prong 'competitors' product that looks very similar, but not exactly the same as the JCW NGK plug. The E3 gains were impressive but you can't believe everything you see on TV.
Anyone with some real data?
Oh, and here is the video from the TV program:
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/video.htm
Sure does have a nice looking spark.
Anyone with some real data?
Oh, and here is the video from the TV program:
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/video.htm
Sure does have a nice looking spark.
Weird as I had the exact opposite happen to me when I got rid of my 1 year old Denso 22's and put in the JCW NGK. Better throttle response and a bit more mileage too. The Denso's were a bit worn, but nothing that would have warranted them to be replaced for being worn out. Actually had better results with the NGK iridiums than the Denso's too.
Great info but I will stick with the NGK for the few bucks.
Just seems to be playing with fire if you know what works and go a different route to save $24 maybe 4 or 5 times over the life of the car. Just my $.02.
Just seems to be playing with fire if you know what works and go a different route to save $24 maybe 4 or 5 times over the life of the car. Just my $.02.
For thoughs who have have not had a head off the MINI yet the piston is so far down the hole I do not think there is a plug out there ever to come close to hitting a piston. Electricity will take the shortest fastest route. 4 grounded prog plugs have far to many vaibles. So you get a different fire almost everytime ignition stroke. Also windage, decreasing electrical speed at anything above 3000rpm and high pressure levels will change the way a plug fires. So if performance is in mind a single eltrode plug indexed will have better consistency then a multiple prong plug. I my self use AC Rapid fires which is a single grounding electrode and index accordinly. Can't say what it does on the mini power wise by a dyno sheet but indexing the race car makes a difference. Remember that a plug is only as good as what fires it. MSD coil, MSD wires and Digital MSD-2.
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For thoughs who have have not had a head off the MINI yet the piston is so far down the hole I do not think there is a plug out there ever to come close to hitting a piston. Electricity will take the shortest fastest route. 4 grounded prog plugs have far to many vaibles. So you get a different fire almost everytime ignition stroke. Also windage, decreasing electrical speed at anything above 3000rpm and high pressure levels will change the way a plug fires. So if performance is in mind a single eltrode plug indexed will have better consistency then a multiple prong plug. I my self use AC Rapid fires which is a single grounding electrode and index accordinly. Can't say what it does on the mini power wise by a dyno sheet but indexing the race car makes a difference. Remember that a plug is only as good as what fires it. MSD coil, MSD wires and Digital MSD-2.

Have you looked at the NGK 4 prong plug? It's design eliminates the problem you feel you have to solve by indexing. The prongs do not extend past the electrode by much at all, therefore indexing is not req'd. And having multiple possible routes for the spark will actually increase the efficiency of the plug and combustion.
Have you looked at the NGK 4 prong plug? It's design eliminates the problem you feel you have to solve by indexing. The prongs do not extend past the electrode by much at all, therefore indexing is not req'd. And having multiple possible routes for the spark will actually increase the efficiency of the plug and combustion.
You may want to try a single electrode plug next plug change and see for yourself. You never know you may like them.
As I stated above.......went through 2 sets of single prong iridium and prefer the OEM JCW plugs.
And they were first designed as a performance plug for good reason, they worked better than a single one.
And they were first designed as a performance plug for good reason, they worked better than a single one.
Only small engine data on the the E3s. A father/son competition snowmobile team here used to buy boxes of the standard NGK's to take on their weekend romps on the mountain. Apparently, the hi-perf engines ate plugs, and they usually changed them 2-3 times in an average day.
The father told me that when they stopped for a break, and the engines cooled down some that they would always have to put in new plugs to get a restart.
They tried the E3's and he later told me he made it thru the season on the same plugs. No info on performance changes. That's all I've got.
The father told me that when they stopped for a break, and the engines cooled down some that they would always have to put in new plugs to get a restart.
They tried the E3's and he later told me he made it thru the season on the same plugs. No info on performance changes. That's all I've got.
Looks like I may have to try them and put up an official review. I searched and found no mention of E3's anywhere on here. I've heard the small engine reviews and have had 1 or 2 people ask for them. They've said bracket racers like them because there is a definite gain in repeatability and another person on the NAM Facebook group told me they're great.
im suprised no one has tried to cross reference these plugs to something that high end performance companies use for in-house stuff....on my old turbo civic (D15B w/Greddy Hybrid TD04-15G turbo) i used HKS Racing Fire Plugs (1 step colder) and they worked like a champ! i know both Greddy and HKS make general application plugs....just my .02
I was trying point this out. Helpfull reading is from Dr.David Jacobs phd. Jacobs Electronic. While in the early 80's/90,s I was sponsored by Fram/Autolite and as such could use as many plugs as I wanted. I was able to try all the latest fads of plugs a modified single grounding electrode proved the best performing for best power. We could debate this on a thread until it dies. However if anyone has actually done a dyno run on both then it would be un questionalble. I hope someone that has dyno data that can chim in 2 cents about this. The bottom line if you research it if you want a good perfoming plug that will last 10 k - 50 k get a multiple prog. If you want maximum power get a good single grounding plug. And Indexing plug shows very little gains. But then the little gains on things start to ad up.
Again, these guys have at least one dyno comparison run, and it was very impressive, although can we believe it ??
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/video.htm
Who's up for a dyno/tune this weekend? Can someone spend a few more minutes on the drum and try some of these top contenders? I will do it when I get my dyno/tune but it is not scheduled yet, and I do not really have control over when it will be, within 2 or 3 months though I expect.
http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/video.htm
Who's up for a dyno/tune this weekend? Can someone spend a few more minutes on the drum and try some of these top contenders? I will do it when I get my dyno/tune but it is not scheduled yet, and I do not really have control over when it will be, within 2 or 3 months though I expect.
) which i listed above.
Being that the JCW plugs can be had for $8 each, how much are your really going to save? Even if you get $4 plug the savings is only $16. For that little just go with the factory approved plug that the dealship can't complain about.



