Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain SES light = Bad Cat(?)

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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #1  
enologuy's Avatar
enologuy
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From: Santa Maria, California
SES light = Bad Cat(?)

I took my MINI in for a check up at 53K miles and to have the SES light code(s) read and to find out why my ABS and TPMS lights kept coming on. No performance issues just annoying.
Well, the ABS and TPMS are just a sensor that needs replacement ($125 for the part). The SES indicated that the catalytic converter was operating at below its efficiency threshold....a bad cat. I had a complete Milltek system installed March of 2006 at 6,872 miles. I also have a DT bypass valve, Nology Hotwires and a DimSport tune by Emil. All other mods are listed in my sig.
Is it possible that the cat just went bad or is it possible, as the repair technician suggested, that I am getting too much fuel through the system?
Also, is there another brand of free-flow cat I can buy that will last longer and also bolt up to the Milltek header and cat-back if I am outside the Milltek warranty?

Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 02:42 PM
  #2  
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ADAMSALTAMINI
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Originally Posted by enologuy
I took my MINI in for a check up at 53K miles and to have the SES light code(s) read and to find out why my ABS and TPMS lights kept coming on. No performance issues just annoying.
Well, the ABS and TPMS are just a sensor that needs replacement ($125 for the part). The SES indicated that the catalytic converter was operating at below its efficiency threshold....a bad cat. I had a complete Milltek system installed March of 2006 at 6,872 miles. I also have a DT bypass valve, Nology Hotwires and a DimSport tune by Emil. All other mods are listed in my sig.
Is it possible that the cat just went bad or is it possible, as the repair technician suggested, that I am getting too much fuel through the system?
Also, is there another brand of free-flow cat I can buy that will last longer and also bolt up to the Milltek header and cat-back if I am outside the Milltek warranty?

Thanks for your input.
Cats can go bad for sure. BUT the R53's run beyond nuts EGT's and can wreak havoc with even the strongest cats. With that being said if the tune is off even a little bit it could certainly wipe out the cat.

Milltek SHOULD offer a warranty or at least be willing to inspect it at no charge.

Also, sometimes the O2 sensors go bad and that will cause the light. So check that it is the cat or sensor prior to replacing parts.

Finally, there are some good aftermarket cats out there (including the ones we use in our version of the similar part) so either way you should be able to get going again with a minimum expense.

Let me know if I can help in anyway!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 03:10 PM
  #3  
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From: Hillsboro/Portland, OR
If you need to replace the cat, with the location of the cat on the milltek it can be replaced while on the car, don't need to remove it. I got a magnaflow cat installed on mine, in hindsight I wish I would have known of the magnaflow universal spun cats. Grassroots motorsports did a review on their project miata and it had the bestr results. They look nice too
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 04:54 PM
  #4  
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enologuy
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From: Santa Maria, California
According to Milltek, the cat and header are a single unit and I would have to replace both or cut out the cat and weld another one into place.
Any thoughts on which way to go. I hate to spend the money, but if I have to replace the whole header/cat assembly, should I consider the Alta, RMW, etc. as replacements?
Also, I got the car back today and the O2 sensors are not throwing any codes. The exhaust coming out of the cat is cooler than going in and, even though the emissions are within spec, the service technician said the cat is not doing its job according to the codes it is generating.
Additionally, and a little off topic, he said that even though the spark plugs are listed as lasting to 100k miles, mine should be replaced due to their condition. He said they are a JCW plug with 4 electrodes #BKR7EQUP and list for about $22.00 each! Any thoughts on this???

Thanks for your responses guy, I really do appreciate it.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 05:19 PM
  #5  
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From: Hillsboro/Portland, OR
I had a shop cut the cat out and weld one in place, $200 cat and labor.

You can get the plugs for $8.07 each at www.ngk.com

http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp...EQUP&x=33&y=11

I just ordered some it came out to 40 bucks shipped.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 06:30 PM
  #6  
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enologuy
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From: Santa Maria, California
OSUBeaver,

Do you happen to know what the gap setting is for these plugs? I am ordering some tonight.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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From: Hillsboro/Portland, OR
If I recall correctly these are pre-gapped. If you buy the ones in the link I posted you can throw them on straight from the box.
 
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