Thanks

 

Screw the dynos, track times tell it all. Danny posted a 1:29 today in his car (Might have gotten better by now, this was at 11 this morning). That's about 6 seconds off the pace from the fastest times at that track (Track records). Yea, he knows how to drive, but he's certainly not a race car driver. We've got MINI's with Jan's parts out there putting down 1:27's.

 

I mean even before. I expect lower temps now (And have been seeing lower temps).

Those are some GREAT results you got on that Cabrio. The owner is going to be in for a surprise when he drives it .

 

he was already introduced to the CA HWY patrol on the way home

 

You should toss in a Valentine One with your Stage One kits .

 

Maybe I should throw them in the RMW kits?

 

Changed my post to reflect that! Makes more sense now that I think about it .

 

.....even Kul-er!.....just say the word!

 

Who needs water to air .

 

*Drool*

 

is that a shrimp steamer?

 

Nah it dosn't get hot enough

 

I agree...air 2 air ftw

 

Looks like I got you 18 to 12 .

Longboard

 

That's what the nitrous is for lol

 

Guys:
Given a high flow head (i.e. RMW) and the boost reduction say, from about 15psi to about 10.5psi......does it naturally follow that temps would reduce as well?
The reason I ask is specific to pulley selection. Putting SC life and rpm aside for the moment, one of the main reasons to stay with a 15% redux as opposed to a 19% would be that the excessive temps produced by the 19% starts to more negatively affect performance than the additional boost helps.
So, with a proper head, does say a 17% pulley become more attactive due to the overall lower temps than for a stock head?

 

It can be, it depends on what you're doing with the car. Yes, boost WILL be lower with a head (Not 10.5 psi though) and that will lower temperatures (By a bit), but it doesn't totally negate the fact that you're spinning the M45 out of it's efficiency. A 19% is WAY over RPM on the Eaton. Yes you will make more power, but at the cost of higher belt angles (Read: Slipping belt), more maintenance requirements (Belts will fail more often, the SC will probably fail prematurely) and heat (It's still going to run hotter, IAT's will be up, you'll probably be cavitating your water pump near redline, so your water temps will be through the roof on the track).

I'd leave the 15 on and enjoy the new power . You're not going to gain very much with a jump up to a 17 or 19, especially if you track the car.

 

reducing boost will reduce your IAT's
the system will allow you to make the same or more HP with less boost which is better for the engine. We are working on other solutions for the MINI which will take us to the next zone of power and efficiency

stay tuned we are burning the midnight oil

 

I'm thinking those aftermarket parts must be close to $6k not installed?

 

We await your updates on the automatics, Jan.

 

I have to laugh here.... before RMW you could spend $12k and not make close to these numbers

 

Unfortunately thats still alot of money for me, maybe not for others .

 

Whatever you are talking about it's UNPOSSIBLE!

 

if it makes you feel better, I can charge you 12K

 

Guys:
Ok got it. I have a 15% on my JCW car and that seems to be the sweet spot, overall. A 17% gets closer to many limiting factors, but may be OK for street. 19% just seems to be a maintenance headache and crosses the line on many of those factors. And yes, I know there are certainly some cases of people loving a 19%, but the risk is high!

Also, yes it makes sense that lower boost means lower IAT, regardless of how achieved, meaning bigger SC pulley or a high flow head. So, another reason a good head increases performance, it not only flows better, it also lowers temps.........cool........or at least cooler!