Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain R53: Battery relocate & straight exhaust

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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 08:26 PM
  #51  
DrPhilGandini's Avatar
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Well, it gets pretty cold in Albuquerque in winter (it even snows!), so I may get a chance to see how it performs in freezing temperatures. But this ain't Wisconsin, so my evidence may not be convincing.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2008 | 08:30 PM
  #52  
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get one for a smow mobile im pretty sure they would be made for cold climates
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 08:06 AM
  #53  
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Thanks !!

Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
To keep Fatherdeth and others up to date:
I saw my local muffler guy yesterday and have ordered the following:


Flowmaster Corvette C6 tips 3.5" slight oval pair.

Flowmaster Super 44 muffler. 2/5" in and out (single).


I found some Porsche Boxster split oval tips, but they were $360. Ouch...
Thanks again for all the updates. They are very detailed and helpful. Nice choice on the muffler. That's a very good one, and the tip choice is niccccce. Corvette C6 tips, very cool. I think you are ready to make some R56 owners very envious.

I understand completely about the $360 tips. That's insane, not to mention it could be used for something like a tune. anyway, congrats and keep up the good work.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 09:12 AM
  #54  
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BTW...Phil, are the battery cables back there are long enough to use the stock battery in the new relocated spot?

I would like to keep some weight in the back of our nose heavy cars.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
BTW...Phil, are the battery cables back there are long enough to use the stock battery in the new relocated spot?
...
Mmmm...not really in my estimation. However, the negative cable is easily replaced with a longer one. And you could do something with the positive cable that goes to the rear of the car (smaller guage that runs through a fuse in that black box that sits next to the battery.) However the positive cables are quite complicated and not worth messing with in my opinion.
I don't think the stock battery can be laid on its side--if possible you could use the cables as they are.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 10:40 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by PARTSMAN
BTW...Phil, are the battery cables back there are long enough to use the stock battery in the new relocated spot?

I would like to keep some weight in the back of our nose heavy cars.
just take something heavier off the front
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 02:23 PM
  #57  
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In preparation for the install of our rear tunnel diffusers I have slowly been changing the car for a straight exhaust system . The battery relocation issue was the first up and this is how I solved it . I have mounted a 14lb battery behind the passenger seat on the floor . I made a mount out of flat aluminum and bent up a hold down strap and together with some simple threaded rod secured it to the mount plate which is in turn held down by the rear two seat bolts. I used a set of 4ft battery cables and added them to the stock end pieces, ran them under the rear seat delete and to the new location . As my car is more of a weekend warier now I was concerned with the lightweight batter going dead during the week of sitting so I went to Pep Boys and picked up a battery " conditioner " for about $ 30. It comes with a harness which you permanently mount to the battery terminals . When I get home I simply connect the harness to the cable coming from the wall plug and leave it until I drive the car again . Works like a champ so far.

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Randy
M7 Tuning
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 09:26 PM
  #58  
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sorry

I know this is a little off topic, but when do you think those diffusers will be ready?
CF or aluminum?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2008 | 11:34 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Longboard Mini
This is what I want. If I can't buy them I'm going to maker them.

Longboard

I want those tips...they look amazing
 
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 12:51 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by MINI_chili
I know this is a little off topic, but when do you think those diffusers will be ready?
CF or aluminum?
We have a donor R-53 that we are working on as we speak. We have most of it done , just working on the hangers now . With the SEMA show coming up next week we have other priorities but it is close .

Randy
M7 tuning
 
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by maxmini
In preparation for the install of our rear tunnel diffusers I have slowly been changing the car for a straight exhaust system . The battery relocation issue was the first up and this is how I solved it . I have mounted a 14lb battery behind the passenger seat on the floor . I made a mount out of flat aluminum and bent up a hold down strap and together with some simple threaded rod secured it to the mount plate which is in turn held down by the rear two seat bolts. I used a set of 4ft battery cables and added them to the stock end pieces, ran them under the rear seat delete and to the new location . As my car is more of a weekend warier now I was concerned with the lightweight batter going dead during the week of sitting so I went to Pep Boys and picked up a battery " conditioner " for about $ 30. It comes with a harness which you permanently mount to the battery terminals . When I get home I simply connect the harness to the cable coming from the wall plug and leave it until I drive the car again . Works like a champ so far.




Randy
M7 Tuning

Go back to Pep Boys and get some battery terminal covers. Not a good idea to have the terminals open like that w/o something covering them. Most track organizations won't let you run with exposed terminals like that. Some also require that the battery be attached using 4 points.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 11:07 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PenelopeG3
Go back to Pep Boys and get some battery terminal covers. Not a good idea to have the terminals open like that w/o something covering them. Most track organizations won't let you run with exposed terminals like that. Some also require that the battery be attached using 4 points.
These Photos were taken during the initial install process but it is good that you brought this point up for others seeing these snap shots .

Thanks,

Randy
M7 Tuning
 
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Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:12 PM
  #63  
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MINI Mania header, one clip is straight pipe, the other is with a Super 50.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 03:09 AM
  #64  
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i love sounds like a proper dtm car
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #65  
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Stage II done:

Before:


After:


2 words: Effin loud.
1 word: obnoxious

Ah, I might have to rethink this one.

sound files to come...
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 09:02 AM
  #66  
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Looks pretty killer, Phil!

Can't wait to hear it.

BTW, did you get the MAP sensor?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 09:56 AM
  #67  
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Nice job. What muffler are you going to try now.
 

Last edited by newbs49; Nov 8, 2008 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
Stage II done:

Before:


After:


2 words: Effin loud.
1 word: obnoxious

Ah, I might have to rethink this one.

sound files to come...


Looks cool Phil but I'm sure it's crazy loud. You got thinking. I love SuperTrapp mufflers. Going down the middle then a Y to two SuperTrapp strait out the middle. Might have to trim the opening a little but I love the fact that you can "tune" The SuperTrapp.

Longboard
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 04:47 PM
  #69  
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Weird you say that Longboard--I had to remove the Super 44 after just 20 miles as the in-car drone at all rpms is unbearable. I'm sure it's due to the Flowmaster not having any fiber fill, but just baffles in the metal can. It sounds pretty metallic. So I got to thinking that maybe 2 smaller mufflers side by side then twin tips might be cool, just as you suggested.
Jan told me I had to get a muffler that doesn't have filling as it just blows out due to the SC pulsing, or something (I'm no exhaust scientist). Hence I stayed away from many others, but haven't looked at the Super Trapp.

BTW, it was unbelievably loud, if I hadn't mentioned it...
I put the Millteks back in this morning.
Anyone want a straight back system for cheap? It fits on any Milltek, or Milltek-compatible midpipe without modification, and you use the existing hangers.
$200 plus shipping...
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 05:03 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by DrPhilGandini
Weird you say that Longboard--I had to remove the Super 44 after just 20 miles as the in-car drone at all rpms is unbearable. I'm sure it's due to the Flowmaster not having any fiber fill, but just baffles in the metal can. It sounds pretty metallic. So I got to thinking that maybe 2 smaller mufflers side by side then twin tips might be cool, just as you suggested.
Jan told me I had to get a muffler that doesn't have filling as it just blows out due to the SC pulsing, or something (I'm no exhaust scientist). Hence I stayed away from many others, but haven't looked at the Super Trapp.

BTW, it was unbelievably loud, if I hadn't mentioned it...
I put the Millteks back in this morning.
Anyone want a straight back system for cheap? It fits on any Milltek, or Milltek-compatible midpipe without modification, and you use the existing hangers.
$200 plus shipping...
The duels would work great for you. The Supertrapps are $$. You could do two Sweet-Thunders with whatever tips you want. He can make them as long as want. They will last forever and sound great and the best part is the are reasonably priced.

Longboard
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #71  
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If you get a muffler with ceramic pack, it does not blow out.

I had to try 5 or 6 mufflers before I found one that worked.

Magnaflow worked well. My Super 50 Flowmaster needed a resonator right off the header. 3" sounded the best. I also tried Hooker resonated tips, which took off some of the rasp.



I found the best system I built was the one that used two mufflers, one Magnaflow round muffler directly off the header, and one Magnaflow oval at the rear, with a 4" single resonated Hooker tip. 3" tubing.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 09:21 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by not-so-rednwhitecooper
If you get a muffler with ceramic pack, it does not blow out.

I had to try 5 or 6 mufflers before I found one that worked.

Magnaflow worked well. My Super 50 Flowmaster needed a resonator right off the header. 3" sounded the best. I also tried Hooker resonated tips, which took off some of the rasp.


I found the best system I built was the one that used two mufflers, one Magnaflow round muffler directly off the header, and one Magnaflow oval at the rear, with a 4" single resonated Hooker tip. 3" tubing.
I have a modified Magnaflow (new vestion) cat back. It uses a round muffler on the center pipe right before the split. I've killed three . I finally went with the Sweet-Thunder which is a chambered muffler that uses no packing.

The other people to check out is Stainless Works. They make mufflers that will out last your car and never burn out.

And your right, resonated tips work great. Borla makes some very nice ones

Longboard
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 05:28 AM
  #73  
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I'm going to contact Sweet Thunder. They look like a nice set up, and maybe there's enough room under the old battery box to go single pipe to a split with 2x S-Ts then I can use their split oval tips (which is what I wanted in the first place!) We'll see...
Thanks for the info guys.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:56 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Longboard Mini
I have a modified Magnaflow (new vestion) cat back. It uses a round muffler on the center pipe right before the split. I've killed three . ...The other people to check out is Stainless Works. They make mufflers that will out last your car and never burn out.
....
Longboard
Did it look anything like this?

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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #75  
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I abandoned the Flowmaster due to the noise, and have hooked up with Sweet Thunder for a custom 3-muffler setup.

I'll keep you all informed as it progresses.
 
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