Drivetrain Help M7 or Alta V2??
Here is my 2 cents for what it is worth....
1. Pulley
2. CAI
3. Headers
4. Cat back
If your budget is only $3,000 unless you can install the cylinder head yourself or by someone who will do it cheap you are going to be charged big bucks in Oz!
I shopped around (over a dozen shops) alot wouldn't do it because it is a mini (I have no idea why?) and those that would quoted $1200 - $1900 AUD for the install
!
No BMW dealer would do it as it was not "Genuine BMW parts".
And as soon as you say mini all the shops seem to automatically bump up the price...
Also the only Dimsport tuner in Australia is located in Sydney and he charges $1995 (incl GST) !
So unless you can wait for a remote tune from RMW it is going to cost you a bit.
Now if you do go ahead and get the head without a tune it is going to be running pretty lean...to get the most out of any perfromance cylinder head a tune is a must
1. Pulley
2. CAI
3. Headers
4. Cat back
If your budget is only $3,000 unless you can install the cylinder head yourself or by someone who will do it cheap you are going to be charged big bucks in Oz!
I shopped around (over a dozen shops) alot wouldn't do it because it is a mini (I have no idea why?) and those that would quoted $1200 - $1900 AUD for the install
!No BMW dealer would do it as it was not "Genuine BMW parts".
And as soon as you say mini all the shops seem to automatically bump up the price...
Also the only Dimsport tuner in Australia is located in Sydney and he charges $1995 (incl GST)
!So unless you can wait for a remote tune from RMW it is going to cost you a bit.
Now if you do go ahead and get the head without a tune it is going to be running pretty lean...to get the most out of any perfromance cylinder head a tune is a must
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 38
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Do you know any good flash tunes????
What is your definition of a true "Big valve" head???????
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,902
Likes: 2
From: SoCaL (Agoura Hills)
I see no reason to go to a 17%, it's pretty hard to find a belt that works properly with that pulley. If you don't plan on tracking the car and never spend much time in the higher RPM range, go with a 19%.
E-Mail Danny at MINICorsa on info on belts and pulley's. He can also give you all the info you need on the RMW head. danny@minicorsa.com. Tell him I passed you along
.
6th Gear
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,902
Likes: 2
From: SoCaL (Agoura Hills)
One that has oversized valves. I don't think thumper's head uses oversized valves, and I know for a fact that he himself has admitted that its not on the same level as the RMW head (considering it costs $700 less, it shouldn't be).
You want oversized valves Thumper will give!
You want all the expensive fancy stuff Thumper will give!
As for the quality of Thumpers work this is a guy that just does heads and has done them for 30 years. The guy knows what he is doing and does it pretty bloody good!
I am more than happy with my Thumper head and wouldn't swap it for 2 RMW heads!!!!!
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 723
Likes: 0
From: Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Napa 535 is the one recommended for use with 17%. It does not slip. 15% can be used with the JCW belt.
6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria, VA
1) Intercooler - As others have said, an IC isn't necessary. I run the stock one and haven't found any reason to upgrade now with almost 90 HP over stock.
2) SC Pulley - One of the biggest bang for your buck products out there. I'd stick to a 15%, the manufacturer isn't that important. Alta, Craven, Helix, it's all the same thing really. I'd stay away from the 16% because of the odd sizing (Belt sizing can be difficult) and because people have had issues getting them on and off. Make sure you change your belt to a smaller one if you put a new pulley on.
3) Crank Pulley - Most of the "Big Guys" will tell you to stay away from this, doesn't really do anything and it has caused issues in the past with harmonic balancing. It's a pretty touchy subject on here but in my mind, after spending close to $20k on engine parts over the years, if I haven't figured out a reason to buy one, what's the point
.
4) Injectors - Might be a good idea if you plan on going crazy with mods. You can get a set of 380's from Helix for around $260. These will be good up until about 210 whp. If you want to go much past that, Jan from RMW has a set of 440 cc Injectors you can get. Stay away from modified injectors without the stock spray pattern. These cause fuel puddling and you'll be throwing codes like crazy.
5) OCC - See my post above about OCC's and their merits. I don't run one, nobody that I've worked with runs one or recommends that I run one, so I haven't wasted the money. It's your call, it's not going to hurt anything, but it's really not going to help either.
6) Throttle Body - In 350+ whp applications the throttle body hasn't become a restriction, it certainly isn't going to be one on a car putting down sub 200 whp numbers. This is a MAJOR profit source for people that do them. They sell you somebody else's that they machined, then take they take yours, machine it for $35, and charge $299 to the next guy who thinks it might help. Bigger isn't ALWAYS better either, RMW has run into some issues trying to tune these.
If you're looking for a mod path for engine only, I'd do this:
SC Pulley - $99
Intake - Take your pick, they all do the same thing
RMW 440 cc Injectors - I want to say $499, but I can't remember
RMW Exhaust - ~$2000
RMW Head - ~$2200 + a few other things needed for install
RMW Tune - $350
With all that, you'll be putting down between 225 and 240 whp.
If you want to go light, pull off the 440's and replace them with 380's, and take the head and exhaust out to save $4200. With just a pulley, intake, and tune you'd probably be putting down around 190 whp. If you have the money, an exhaust with a good header would add another 8-10 HP to that figure.
2) SC Pulley - One of the biggest bang for your buck products out there. I'd stick to a 15%, the manufacturer isn't that important. Alta, Craven, Helix, it's all the same thing really. I'd stay away from the 16% because of the odd sizing (Belt sizing can be difficult) and because people have had issues getting them on and off. Make sure you change your belt to a smaller one if you put a new pulley on.
3) Crank Pulley - Most of the "Big Guys" will tell you to stay away from this, doesn't really do anything and it has caused issues in the past with harmonic balancing. It's a pretty touchy subject on here but in my mind, after spending close to $20k on engine parts over the years, if I haven't figured out a reason to buy one, what's the point
.4) Injectors - Might be a good idea if you plan on going crazy with mods. You can get a set of 380's from Helix for around $260. These will be good up until about 210 whp. If you want to go much past that, Jan from RMW has a set of 440 cc Injectors you can get. Stay away from modified injectors without the stock spray pattern. These cause fuel puddling and you'll be throwing codes like crazy.
5) OCC - See my post above about OCC's and their merits. I don't run one, nobody that I've worked with runs one or recommends that I run one, so I haven't wasted the money. It's your call, it's not going to hurt anything, but it's really not going to help either.
6) Throttle Body - In 350+ whp applications the throttle body hasn't become a restriction, it certainly isn't going to be one on a car putting down sub 200 whp numbers. This is a MAJOR profit source for people that do them. They sell you somebody else's that they machined, then take they take yours, machine it for $35, and charge $299 to the next guy who thinks it might help. Bigger isn't ALWAYS better either, RMW has run into some issues trying to tune these.
If you're looking for a mod path for engine only, I'd do this:
SC Pulley - $99
Intake - Take your pick, they all do the same thing
RMW 440 cc Injectors - I want to say $499, but I can't remember
RMW Exhaust - ~$2000
RMW Head - ~$2200 + a few other things needed for install
RMW Tune - $350
With all that, you'll be putting down between 225 and 240 whp.
If you want to go light, pull off the 440's and replace them with 380's, and take the head and exhaust out to save $4200. With just a pulley, intake, and tune you'd probably be putting down around 190 whp. If you have the money, an exhaust with a good header would add another 8-10 HP to that figure.
Great post. Been looking for something succinct like this for a while. Sorry for the noob question but is a cam shaft not a necessary part with all that other stuff on the list?
Last edited by PlayPlay; May 31, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
4th Gear
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 497
Likes: 0
From: Turkey
nice qus
Last edited by Luys; May 31, 2008 at 11:26 AM.
4th Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 330
Likes: 0
From: NOSIDE, NJ
Regardless of whether or not you're seeing oil blowby in your catchcan, the it still doesn't really offer any performance gain. None of these recent cars that have been mentioned that are putting down 230+ whp are running catch can's. When we're out here spending thousands chasing 5-8 HP, trust me, we'd all have catch can's if we thought it would help.
If your primary goal is to keep your IC clean, that's another story, but a catch can isn't going to give you any performance gain
.
If your primary goal is to keep your IC clean, that's another story, but a catch can isn't going to give you any performance gain
.
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