I am going to install a water/meth kit soon and my take on it is that it is probably better not to get the car tuned with it so your car doesn't rely on it just incase there is a problem or you run out of meth.
As for wether Jans tune would work with meth I don't know but the bloke could probably tune a rock and get it to put out some serious horsepower!
I would be interested with what others have done...

 

You're gonna have to give up your rank if you keep abstaining from such discussions...

 

I've done my fair share of pot stirring and calling out bs today.

 

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Allow me then I'm below my quota.

Hydrolock my a$$

 

tablespoon huh.

an old timer told me along time ago that pouring water ( in small amounts SLOWLY ) into the carb with the rpms raised cleans the motor out or carbon. this was on muscle cars and i never seen any of my motors hydrolock from doing that and i purposely poured the water in.

 

You can tune for water/meth and this should be optimum BUT then you are committed to always running water/meth. I think the way to go is to get tuned w/out water/meth and then work on the formula of water/meth to get gain on top of that - this way you are not locked into always using water/meth. If your getting tuned by Jan, this should be discussed before tune day.

 

My experience was about a 1lb of pressure drop. Now about cooking a steak on it - you can cook a steak on any IC if you stop and park the car. I found after driving the car if I stopped and immediately popped the hood that the IC and the right horn were very cool to the touch - more so than the other ICs.

 

What IC are you running?

on another note.....im putting the DFIC diverter on last nite and i go to tighten the bolt on the right the side, i go to snug it up and the freaking head on the bolt snaps off the intake. How the hell does stainless hardware break before aluminum.....smh

 

You're not going to get much out of the water/meth if you do not tune for it. The whole point of it is so you can advance engine timing and/or run more boost. If you're not going to do that then i really don't see much of a point in putting in a $400 meth kit as a mere safeguard on a car that probably isn't going to be detonating anyway. Just my .02.

If you're going to inject, tune it for injection-by-boost, and make sure you keep the tank filled. And if you're on a trip or for whatever reason run out and can't refill the tank, then just dont boost a lot on the car and it'll be fine. Remember you've got a 1.6 liter engine, which means tiny rods that probably aren't going to break. The thing that seems to eat these cars then comes from melting the pistons due to excessive heat (an overworked SC). This threat is obviously reduced my meth/water injection which is the point, but under normal driving the engine is not going to heat up enough to fry a piston. So if your tank is out, it's not the end of the world, just watch it and refill as soon as you can.

 

i beg to differ.....meth will increase your octane and cool down cylinder and exhaust temps which in turns makes power. its not always about running more timing and boost. there is other gains to be seen from running a meth system since i like playing with the car on the weekend other than autoX.

you shouldnt have to tune to use meth cuz your not gonna be running it the entire time your car is running which is impossible so if you put more timing in your car just for meth your gonna be in trouble when your not running it.

 

From all I have read and discussed w/ others, I agree w/ your points.

 

I found a very low priced system compared to everyone else out there.

Ill throw the link up when i get home.

I have a partial kit i got from a friend of mine but i want a new one.

 

Most affordable grades of stainless steel (such as the ones you will find common SS fasteners made of) have relatively low yield/sheer strengths when compared to cast aluminum. That is, you can tighten a bolt to the point it begins to stretch quite easily and from there, all sorts of stress risers start happening and well... all bets are off LOL. The combination of sheer and tensile forces on the head can make it fail quite easily while torquing.

The only good reason to use a stainless bolt is corrosion resistance. Unless you are having something special made up from say... PH 15-5, then stainless is not a good material for a fastener. "Steel is real" is the common phrase. You want a great fastener? Make it from steel and coat it in something to prevent corrosion.

Back to intercoolers. One thing I dislike about the DFIC and/or Alta V2 intercooler - these intercoolers are quite thick with respect to the travel of the cooling air. Since heat transfer is directly proportional to temperature differential, the second half of the intercooler is only doing 1/4 the cooling that the first half does because the ambient air has warmed and the charged air has cooled. I like the TMIC design better because the air passing over it has not been significantly warmed by the time it exits the cooler. Eh. Apples to oranges I guess. Each style has their own merits.

 

Stage 1 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/wat...stage-1-8.html Stage 2 http://www.alcohol-injection.com/wat...tage-2-12.html

 

Is it me or is anyone else having problems with the script on here....i cant edit my posts or use smilies. i have no problem on any other site im using

 

totally agree here, but i think it's just the issue with that style intercooler in such a cramped space. not much options unfortunately.

As far as the meth is concerned, it does net more power by it's cooling and all, no doubt. But in my opinion it's really only worth the trouble of buying, installing, and upkeeping it if you tune for it.

Also when i say tune, i would tune the meth to inject by boost. Just rough numbers say, start injecting at xx lb/min (or whatever units) when i hit 8psi and then gradually increase to xx lb/min until full boost. Then tune the car in the same manner. Add and subtract fuel & timing on the map by rpm and boost. Most tunes only really tune for 3k+ RPM's anyway because that's all that matters... so below that, you're not changing the factory tune, and you're not gonna be injecting much either, and that's where "normal driving" would be.

If you can safely turn up boost and/or increase timing... why wouldn't you?