So, what was/is your plan to modify your car?

Here is what I think:

In order of criticality, here is my thought on the right way to upgrade your Gen 1 Mini for more power, more control. This for fun driving, as well as 2-3 track days per annum (hopefully more).

As I see it:

Stage 1: basic stuff first (15% pulley, CAI, Cat-back Exhaust, rear sway bar, springs), ECU, ($1000 - 2000)
Stage 2: wheels, tires, brakes. (another $2-4k)
Stage 3: Then more suspension bits (upper/lower control arms, end links, camber stuff, coilovers, etc). ($2-4K)
Stage 4: After that, getting into more $$ - headers, cams, ported Supercharger, throttle body. (Lots of $$$)

Somewhere in that mix, you have to do some things like better plugs, fuel injectors, better intercooler, etc.

Other things:
there are lots of things available that have not been mentioned. What else do you see as necessary, and how would you differ from my plan.

[EDIT - I'm sure this has been discussed before, but didn't see anything lately.]

Scott

 

stage 1: m7 CAI, 15% pulley, one-ball exhaust, m7 springs, tires, weight loss

stage 2: more suspension work and m7 DFMIC

stage 3: get a honda civic (daily driver), turn mini into autox car

 

Here is a post from Longboard.

Mini Cooper Performance Stages Suggestions by Longboard

Stage 1

• Alta CIA
• Alta 15% pulley
• RMW tune
• One Ball Exhaust
• Brake Upgrade

Stage 2

• Alta CAI
• Alta 15% pulley
• OBX Header
• Milltek Cat Back
• JCW 380cc injectors
• RMW tune

Stage 3

• Alta CAI
• Alta 15% pulley
• GP Intercooler
• RMW Header
• RMW Cat Back
• RMW Head
• RMW 440cc injectors
• RMW Tune
• Clutch

Stage 4

• RMW Rotrex Kit
• RMW Intercooler
• RMW Header
• RMW Cat Back
• RMW Head
• RMW Port Matched Intake
• RMW 440cc injectors
• RMW Tune
• Clutch

Stage 5

• RMW 2.0 L Crate Motor
• RMW Intercooler
• RMW Rotrex Kit
• RMW Header
• RMW Cat Back
• RMW Tune
• Water/Methanol Injection

 

Mini Cooper Suspension Stages Suggestions by Longboard


Stage 1

• Rear Sway Bar 19mm or 22mm
• Performance Wheels and Tires

Stage 2

• Rear Sway Bar 19mm or 22mm
• Progressive Rate Springs
• Helix Rear Control Arm’s (Lower)

Stage 3

• Rear Sway Bar 22mm
• Progressive Rate Springs
• Koni FSD’s
• Helix Rear Control Arm’s (Lower)

Stage 4

• Rear Sway Bar 22mm
• Progressive Rate Springs
• Koni FSD’s
• OMP Upper Strut Bar (My Opinion The Best)
• OMP Lower Strut Bar
• Rear Drop Links
• Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates
• Helix Control Arm’s (Lower)

Stage 5

• Rear Sway Bar 22mm
• JIC Coilovers and Camber plates
• OMP Upper Strut
• OMP Lower Strut Bar
• Rear Drop Links
• Helix Control arms (Upper and Lower)

 

I want head.....a cylinder head that is

 

I know this has been posted/replied before, and I still find it fun! These guys are the pro's; I'll add a couple that may be interesting if you have another grand to spend, and mention the brands I have.

Get the run flats off if you haven't already, KDWs. $600

Put on a TSW engine damper if you don't mind the good vibrations. $70

I did a Shrader rear seat delete, (more to make room for dogs, but reduces weight, too). $180 w/grommets for belts

I've been hearing the stock brakes are more than adequate. (They are for me and I only do a few road course track days a year and no auto-x, just not my bag.) $0

A CG lock is a poor man's Schroth racing harness and really does help. $40

LightinSight allows anybody over 5'10" to see traffic lights. $15

Anybody else have any "bang for the buck" bits and goodies?

 

Well since Ive done everything except my Stage 5 mods.. Here it is...CF Doors, fenders, hatch and PC rear window and moonroof. Then a MCS swap/possible 2.0 upgrade going to single turbo w/nitros and WM injection....SO MY SIG CAN READ 200HP MORE THAN KALBONE AND TULS

 

Nah, get an '08 MCS as a daily driver, and turn your '02 into a Autox car! Hell, get the Clubman for the family! "But honey, now we can fit 5 (very small people) into it!"

 

Obviously Longboard likes RMW....

 

Ok, so I'll bite. Educate me on the engine damper.

I hear you should at least upgrade the rotors to drilled (not "veined" unless you are truly racing), and get stainless brake lines - big improvement. Come one, we are talking about spending money here (a little anyway). And better pads.

What pads folks? No squeaking, but better stopping. Don't care about dust cuz we're racecar drivers


Yes, great idea. At 6'3" I can't see crap above my forehead.

 

That's backwards. You WANT slotted rotors and you want to stay away from cross-drilled due to possible cracking.

 

fixed!

 

So uksuv when you say 200hp more then kalbone or tuls do you mean 200 hamster power or horsepower because if it were hamster power definitely but horsepower you FAIL

 

<channels Treasure of the Sierra Madre>
Plans?
We ain't got no plans!
We don't need no plans!
I don't got to show you no stinkin' plans!
</channels Treasure of the Sierra Madre>


I went for mods lite:
rear sway
CAI
pulley

 

You think!

Longboard

 

my plans for mods are very simple. drive it hard. if something breaks, upgrade it. if somethings due, upgrade it. if i feel like this aspect dissapoints or should be improved, upgrade it.

 

Present day Mods
M7 16%
Craven 2%
Megan Header cat-less
M7 Exhaust but pretty soon replaced
Megan Coilovers
Megan Lower CA's
Rear Seat Delete
M7 M-Wing

Mods that have been on and removed or removed/sold
Alta CAI
M7 AGS
One-ball
M7 springs

 

Why did you remove the Alta intake?

Longboard

 

it was before the AGS and then sold (dumb move) the Alta CAI 2 months before removing AGS

 

No personal experience, but I do see (and have read) that BMW and Merced still use cross drilled vs slotted. There are definite schools of opposite opinion. I have heard that there is more weakness and cracking in a cross drilled rotor. H*ll, that just makes sense, as it has to weaken the surface with all them holes in it.

But, slotted, while good for the track as it scrapes off the glossed surface of the pad due to the high heat caused by the severe driving, greatly shortens the life of your pad (according to what I've read - I'll try to find the references), because it does the same thing during city driving - shaves the pad.

It does seem that the MINI community is against my opinion though. See the poll results here from someone's poll on brakes:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...sults&pollid=2


Scott

 

What takes the place of the AGS and CAI now - back to stock?

 

Base on Stock '06 MCS.

Phase 1 (Nov 06 - Jan 08)

JCW intake
JCW suspension
JCW strut tower bar
Mini Madness rear anti-sway bar 22mm
JCW exhaust
Helix 15% pulley & JCW pulley belt
JCW injectors
IK22 spark plugs
JCW software
JCW GP intercooler
Schrick camshaft (1st version)

Start Phase 2 (Jan 08 - present)

NAPA 25-060-535 pulley belt
RMW custom ECU tuning

JCW brake kit (coming in April)

 

It's looks like just the RMW selling the aftermarket MINI parts.

 

Yep stock intake plenum but with a homemade HKS Super Mega Flow Reloaded Mini kit

 

Hey, it's not all RMW until stage 5 .

What can I say, I believe in the products

Longboard