Stage 5 is actually where the MINI transforms from a BMW product to a nearly unbreakable RMW product

 

Stage 1 (06/07)
15% Pulley
Brake compound change (Hawk HPS)
19mm RSB

Stage 2 (09/07)
Dinan Cowl + Software
JCW Exhaust

Stage 3 (now)
Brake rotor replacement
JCW 380cc Injectors
IE adj camber plates

Stage 4
Koni Yellows
Rear control arms
-Track time-

Stage 5
-Warranty expires-
BBK
Custom tune
400cc injectors
I/C upgrade

 

Stage 1:
Factory Cupholder
Actual Size Sticker
Glove Box Tidy

Stage 2:
OutMotoring ARC Armrest
Seat Pulls
Ian's Auto-Up


Stage 3:
LED Interior Bulbs
DICE iPod adapter
PIAA Wiper Blades

Stage 4:
Rear Wiper Delete with Squirt Mod
Aesthetic Creations Door Sills
Pull To Inflate Sticker w/ Faux Tow hook

Stage 5:
K&N Drop In Filter
DVD Player w/ the Original Italian Job on Constant Repeat
Chrome Hood Scoop w/ Matching Chrome Boot Handle w/ Chrome Mirror Caps
Mini Mania Cup Holder (in addition to the factory cupholder)
...and last but not least, a Palo Uber Wing Spolier Add-On


...and yes, I do have one of these mods

 

Go Stuff
Stage 1
WMS 15% pulley
JCW or WMS Sportbox CAI
RMW catback
RMW tune

Stage 2 (way maybe stuff)
RMW head (maybe ENDYN)
RMW header (maybe HyTech)
380cc injectors
ENDYN ported intake manifold, intercooler runners, reworked SC

Suspension/Brakes Stuff
Stage 1
SS lines and brass bushings all around
brake pads
tires (type TBD)

Stage 2
Upgraded rotors all around
front camber plates and/or rear sway bar
JCW suspension

Lookey Lookey Stuff
Stage 1
Interior pinstriping

Stage 2
Aero sideskirts
Exterior pinstriping and flames

Other Stuff
TSW gen 2 dampener
Full speaker upgrade

 

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but proper race application (and presumably OEM Merc and BMW) "cross drilled" rotors aren't cross drilled at all, they are forged with the holes in them already, making them less likely to have those problems. But truly cross drilled rotors are indeed a greater risk of cracking and weakening the surface, so they aren't a good idea.

 

This was also take from my brake response.....
TAKEN FROM THE STOPTECH WEBSITE....

Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?

StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

 

And I was also told that the drilled rotors are only for aesthetic reasons now but in the old days it was necessary due to the type of brake pad compound used...

 

---Go fast stuff:

Part 1
-CAI (used)
-Invidia Catback (yes, my dealer will void my whole power train warranty because of a catback)
-VIP custom engine damper

Part 2 (warranty expires)
-15%
-Tune (canned or otherwise)

Part 3 (unlikely)
-RMW rotrex kit
-Lightweight flywheel and new clutch (depends on when my current clutch goes)

---Turny stoppy stuff:

Part 1
-Hawk pads (type TBD)
-Slotted rotors
-IE fixed camber plates

Part 2
-19mm rear bar
-JCW springs (maybe)
-Lightweight 16's
-Koni FSD's

As far as aesthetic mods go, there is no real plan for that. My general goal though is to get a very capable street machine on a reasonable budget.

 

Ok, so I took Longboards 2 posts and combined them into 1 list of upgrades. I put a "+" to things he added in the next round, and a "-" to things he removed that he had previously paid good money for (and hopefully sold to some lucky individual).

Dang Longboard, how much do you have in your car? Care to put $$ by each item, or would that be depressing?

Impressive.

Stage 1

• Alta CIA
• Alta 15% pulley
• RMW tune
• One Ball Exhaust
• Brake Upgrade
• Rear Sway Bar 19mm or 22mm
• Performance Wheels and Tires

Stage 2

• - One Ball Exhaust
• + Milltek Cat Back
• + OBX Header
• + JCW 380cc injectors
• + Progressive Rate Springs
• + Helix Rear Control Arm’s (Lower)
• + RMW Tune

Stage 3

• + Koni FSD’s
• + GP Intercooler
• - OBX Header
• + RMW Header
• - Milltek Cat Back
• + RMW Cat Back
• + RMW Head
• - JCW 380cc Injectors
• + RMW 440cc injectors
• + RMW Tune
• + Clutch

Stage 4

• + OMP Upper Strut Bar (My Opinion The Best)
• + OMP Lower Strut Bar
• + Rear Drop Links
• + Ireland Engineering Fixed Camber Plates
• + Helix Control Arm’s (Lower)
• + RMW Rotrex Kit
• - GP Intercooler
• + RMW Intercooler
• + RMW Port Matched Intake
• RMW Tune

Stage 5

• - Progressive Rate Springs
• + JIC Coilovers and Camber plates
• + Helix Control arms - Upper
• + RMW 2.0 L Crate Motor
• + RMW Tune
• + Water/Methanol Injection

 

DONE.

 

LIAR!!!! there is no spark plug wires or coil on it

 

Okay okay...you got me!!!!!

But once those are in there this is the only view you'll get of me even with the Rotex:


Thank Jan, I needed a good chuckle. O how times on NAM have changed with HE WHO SHALL NOT BE NAMED providing the comic relief....kinda makes me want to hang out here more than I do these days

 

Ahh, finally someone with a "Looker" !! Nice job HighLife!

Some for Show, some for Go!

Scott

 

Thanks UKSUV. I had read that, but evidently ignored it.

Anyone with extensive slotted rotor experience that can comment on life of brake pads vs OEM rotors and pads? Is it noticeably shorter? Change after 20K miles, 15K miles? Also, comment on your driving style (street, some track, lotsa track).

Thanks,
Scott

 

same boat as AZMCS...




done for now!

 

That's just power. I have suspension and ton of things outside and in .

Playing with the Mini never depresses me. I never look back at money spent and say what if. Its a bad way to live. Look forward and keep on charging.

Longboard

 

Come on Kal,

If you are going to show all your cool toys you could at least clean it first . I can still see your finger prints on that MSD box.

Longboard

 

Got it done.... almost!!
15%
CAI
1-ball
Eletronic cut out
water/meth
.............

And then..

Thumper Ported Head ( w/ARP head studs)
Custom camshaft
Nitrous
Lowering kit
Stickey tires!

..... then a TUNE to bring it all together!!

Drive around all day on good MPG, and no wear and tear.. the spray the mess out of it and "walk the Dog"!! 250-275 WHP on demand!! ( Or more depends on what the dyno says...lol)

Just me...............................

Thumper

 

damn! why does everyone notice that first..

how about this....

 

Hmmm... I guess I went at things backwards. I wanted to be able to control any power additions before I started adding power, so I went at it like this:

Stage 1 - basic driveability
Upgraded brake pads (almost immediately)
rear swaybar
Cosmetic mods (gotta make it my own)

Stage 2 - control
Engine damper (TSW)
Lowering springs (TSW)
Front camber plates (IE Fixed)
Lower Control Arms
Good alignment
braces - rear tower, top and bottom front tower

Stage 3 - braking
BBK and other braking system upgrades (ss lines, brass bushings in the back)
Stickier tires

Stage 4 - power
Intake
Intercooler
Pully
Alta 2.5 exhaust
Other minor engine bay stuff

I'm at a power max for me and this car. I don't have the urge to 'go big' by delving into engine internals. I'm left with some control and cosmetic tweaks, though... lots of good ideas left to have fun.

 

Ok, tell us about the Turbo pls.

Scott

 

No, I combined both lists - notice that the suspension stuff is in there too. I wasn't sure that you did "Stage 1 - Power" and "Stage 1 - Suspension" at the same time, but I took a calculated gamble that you did. I wanted to see your lists "combined" - as it was so impressive.

Does your car see the track Longboard?

 

My factory brakes were shot at 18,000 miles - heavily grooved rotors and pad thickness was less than the backing. I had them replaced with Powerslot Cryo-temperd slotted rotors and Hawk Ceramic pads. 22,000 miles later and there is no appreciable wear. My driving is spirited street, no track near here.


I might as well lay out my plan, as per the thread's guidlines.

My car is to be a fast daily driver, I want to maintain and enhance the go-kart feel and road holding - handling is above all else.
Current mods:

Engine:
Alta CAI ver. 1.0
Alta 15% s/c pulley ver 2.0
Alta Oil catch can
Borla cat-back Exhaust - sport
Irridium spark plugs
8mm plug wires
Setrab oil cooler mounted with braided Aeroquip hose
Spec Stage 2 clutch, lightened model

Suspension:
Alta 22mm rear stabilizer bar
Alta rear endlinks
Powerflex front control arm bushings
Irreland Engineering adj. camber plates
Irreland Engineering adj. rear control arms (4)
Irreland Engineering Engine mount bushings - complete set
H&R 5mm wheel spacers

Brakes:
Powerslot Cryo-tempered slotted rotors
Hawk Ceramic pads
Goodrige SS lines
AE Super Blue fluid

Gauges:
Cyberdyne digital oil pressure and temperature gauges

Future mods:
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings (sitting in a box in my garage)
RMW tune
later on,
RMW cylinder head
RMW header

I think that is all.

 

Not yet but I will in April . I promised Danny (Mini Corsa) I would go.

Longboard

 

This post moved here as a thread starter:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...13#post2080913


Scott